Mark7 Evolution - Tuning & Troubleshooting

[Allenmat]

Just got my Evolution this weekend and transferred my Dillon 1050 from my base and mounted the Evo. Have everything installed and running smooth, but the one thing I missed was my case shuttle lock like I had on the 1050. I could lock the case shuttle back and run the press without having brass feed.  Was helpful when finishing up reloading for the night, just lock the shuttle and use the 2-3 primers left after the low primer warning.  I looked at the Evo and decided to get my shuttle lock back.  I took apart the case feed assembly.  Took some measurements and double checked them.  Then went to my shop and clamped the case feed assembly in my drill press.

I used broken decapping rod for the pin and tapered it for easy insertion and epoxied a cap on top.  Now I can lock my case shuttle to the rear again.

[teros135]

15 hours ago, Allenmat said:

Just got my Evolution this weekend and transferred my Dillon 1050 from my base and mounted the Evo. Have everything installed and running smooth, but the one thing I missed was my case shuttle lock like I had on the 1050. I could lock the case shuttle back and run the press without having brass feed.  Was helpful when finishing up reloading for the night, just lock the shuttle and use the 2-3 primers left after the low primer warning.  I looked at the Evo and decided to get my shuttle lock back.  I took apart the case feed assembly.  Took some measurements and double checked them.  Then went to my shop and clamped the case feed assembly in my drill press.

I used broken decapping rod for the pin and tapered it for easy insertion and epoxied a cap on top.  Now I can lock my case shuttle to the rear again.

 

 

 

FYI, newer Evos (last couple of months) have a mysterious threaded hole (1/4-20 or so) on the underside of the case feed "box".  A case slide locking device may be coming our way.  

[ringram]

Well I got my Evo pro up and running in manual mode.

Id like to tweak the index, but for the life of me I can not see where to adjust this.

In the video is shows an allen key on the left side next to the main guide pin.

 

BUT its just a black dark hole aka abyss. Does anyone have a pic/video etc of how where to put the allen key. Also what size key?

 

Basically I need a tad more index as the guides end up doing a little alignment rather than the index going to the right place.

 

Thanks

[Stymie12000]

40 minutes ago, ringram said:

Well I got my Evo pro up and running in manual mode.

Id like to tweak the index, but for the life of me I can not see where to adjust this.

In the video is shows an allen key on the left side next to the main guide pin.

 

BUT its just a black dark hole aka abyss. Does anyone have a pic/video etc of how where to put the allen key. Also what size key?

 

Basically I need a tad more index as the guides end up doing a little alignment rather than the index going to the right place.

 

Thanks

On the regular EVO. It's the top screw on the back. Opposite side of station 1.

 

There are 2 adjustment screws. You want the top one. It has a locking screw on top. So you need to remove that first. Then you can adjust the index. Counter clockwise will index more.

 

Also check and make sure your tool head is tight. I was having indexing problems just as you described.  Couldn't adjust the indexing properly.  Discovered my tool head was loose. Once tightened my indexing was spot on.

[Allenmat]

1 hour ago, ringram said:

Well I got my Evo pro up and running in manual mode.

Id like to tweak the index, but for the life of me I can not see where to adjust this.

In the video is shows an allen key on the left side next to the main guide pin.

 

BUT its just a black dark hole aka abyss. Does anyone have a pic/video etc of how where to put the allen key. Also what size key?

 

Basically I need a tad more index as the guides end up doing a little alignment rather than the index going to the right place.

 

Thanks

I have an Evo Pro and had to do the same.  It is a 5/64 hex.  Here are some pics to locate it.  It moves when the press is in operation, so don't leave the hex key in there.  The press will run, but won't index.  Ask me how I know.

[teros135]

2 minutes ago, Allenmat said:

I have an Evo Pro and had to do the same.  It is a 5/64 hex.  Here are some pics to locate it.  It moves when the press is in operation, so don't leave the hex key in there.  The press will run, but won't index.  Ask me how I know.

 

Also, the pawl, and its adjusting screw, moves toward you when the toolhead is in the up position, so you can get at it (as seen in Allenmat's pics above).  When the toolhead is down it retracts and is like the "black hole" you described.  It's on the left side, between the main guide rod and Station 8.

[Tanfastic]

17 hours ago, TRPOperator said:

I did adjust the rod to get a little deaper primer seat and that worked great. Mine hangs up when the new primer has been picked up and is in the slider moving toward. It sticks before the pin can line it up I push slightly forward and it lines up and works. So I am not sure if it's the bolt spring mechanism or why it sticks prior to being close enough that the pin will line it up 

 

Is your primer rocker arm moving freely with the shoulder bolt that holds it tight?  I had an issue similar to what you're describing and it was the primer seating shaft sticking up slightly into the path of the slider and causing it to snag occasionally and mucking things up.  The rocker arm was not moving freely and was causing that shaft to stick up just slightly sometimes. 

[ringram]

Ok index pawl adjuster found ok. I think I didnt have the tool head in the up position! Thanks to those who helped me there

 

Cranked out 200 rounds no problem now manually. Only issue is pesky range brass where the top of the pimer cap comes off leaving the primer sides stuck in the case. Bad news for swage. But you can feel that manually. Im guessing in auto mode that will be a clusterf**k

 

Hopefully it will torque out. I dont fancy preprocessing brass. Kind of defeats the point. I would probably just run the whole lot manually that being the case. Which is the benefit of the Evo model over the Revo. 

 

In summary, the press is a solid monster. I did pull it apart (tool head off) initially to check things out and QA some index issues. That was a learning experience. The tool head needed to be torqued back on in the down position as when it was up it locked up the press and would not index.

 

As a Lee Loadmaster user for a number of years Im used to fiddling about, diagnosing and tweaking. The Evo needs a little of this, but not too much. Im hoping once its set up its off to the races. It would be good if the manual said to make sure you have a FULL set of SAE/Imperial allen keys.

 

Also a schematic showing all the parts and gears in the press would be good. It helps with diagnosis as well as lubing etc. Its a bit of  a black box at present. 

 

But so far, so good and I rate the press as much better than the Dillon 1050 and of course the flimsy Lee Loadmaster.

 

I have 1 x 1050 and 3 x Lee Loadmasters, plus now 1 x Evo Pro.

[teros135]

6 minutes ago, ringram said:

Ok index pawl adjuster found ok. I think I didnt have the tool head in the up position! Thanks to those who helped me there

 

Cranked out 200 rounds no problem now manually. Only issue is pesky range brass where the top of the pimer cap comes off leaving the primer sides stuck in the case. Bad news for swage. But you can feel that manually. Im guessing in auto mode that will be a clusterf**k

 

Hopefully it will torque out. I dont fancy preprocessing brass. Kind of defeats the point. I would probably just run the whole lot manually that being the case. Which is the benefit of the Evo model over the Revo. 

 

In summary, the press is a solid monster. I did pull it apart (tool head off) initially to check things out and QA some index issues. That was a learning experience. The tool head needed to be torqued back on in the down position as when it was up it locked up the press and would not index.

 

As a Lee Loadmaster user for a number of years Im used to fiddling about, diagnosing and tweaking. The Evo needs a little of this, but not too much. Im hoping once its set up its off to the races. It would be good if the manual said to make sure you have a FULL set of SAE/Imperial allen keys.

 

Also a schematic showing all the parts and gears in the press would be good. It helps with diagnosis as well as lubing etc. Its a bit of  a black box at present. 

 

But so far, so good and I rate the press as much better than the Dillon 1050 and of course the flimsy Lee Loadmaster.

 

I have 1 x 1050 and 3 x Lee Loadmasters, plus now 1 x Evo Pro.

 

Nice work exploring the machine

 

If you have the SwageSense, it should stop the press for those "ringers" you described, and for any pulled-back primers.

 

Wally World sells a quite serviceable set of SAE/metric ball-end hex wrenches for $9.99.  (Only a couple of the screws are metric.)  I added a couple of individual open end wrenches just for the EVO.  

 

There's a parts diagram, with exploded views, on the Mark 7 Community.  Also a variety of manuals and troubleshooting documents - but not enough yet.  

 

And we're building a community of knowledgeable users, which is what most successful products need.  

[TRPOperator]

3 hours ago, Tanfastic said:

 

In the support videos it says to use blue loctite and make sure the bolt is tight and does not back out.  When I tightened mine all the way tight, the rocker would bind up and not move smoothly.  There was a thin shim washer on the shoulder bolt, when I took the shim off then I was able to tighten the bolt up fully while still having free movement of the rocker.  Per MK7 Support that is fine, just always make sure that the bolt is greased up so the rocker moves smoothly.

I checked the rocker it was tight but had free movement, but the little adjustment ramp that the primer bar sits on way not as tight..backed it down a hair and tighten it up and zero problem in the rounds I ran...thanks for the help!!

Edited January 11, 2019 by TRPOperator

[tanks]

2 hours ago, ringram said:

...Cranked out 200 rounds no problem now manually. Only issue is pesky range brass where the top of the pimer cap comes off leaving the primer sides stuck in the case. Bad news for swage. But you can feel that manually. Im guessing in auto mode that will be a clusterf**k

 

Hopefully it will torque out. I dont fancy preprocessing brass. Kind of defeats the point. I would probably just run the whole lot manually that being the case. Which is the benefit of the Evo model over the Revo. 

 

 

In the automated mode having decent brass is important. As others have mentioned the ringer alarm works. However, I do pre-process my brass. Everything gets roll sized first, then decapped and sized. At max speed of the Revolution it doesn't take much time to do it as you can set dwell times to 0 for brass processing. I have a spare tool head with Mighty Armory decapping die, swage back up, and a .40 S&W sizing die for brass processing and my main tool head has everything but the decapping die.

 

I haven't had jamming issues at the priming station since I started pre-processing my brass.

[LowBoost]

2 hours ago, TRPOperator said:

I checked the rocker it was tight but had free movement, but the little adjustment ramp that the primer bar sits on way not as tight..backed it down a hair and tighten it up and zero problem in the rounds I ran...thanks for the help!!

 

Any chance one of you guys can post a quick 1 min video of this? Also, what indexing issues have you had? I just want to make sure I can identify such issue (besides the no index at all).

I'll wait for my primersense harness to arrive and I'll take a look at that area to make sure nothing is loose, but with the short test I did, it indexes right. (I guess).

 

BTW - A new manual revision will be posted soon. (I was told).

 

 

[Tanfastic]

9 hours ago, LowBoost said:

 

Any chance one of you guys can post a quick 1 min video of this? Also, what indexing issues have you had? I just want to make sure I can identify such issue (besides the no index at all).

I'll wait for my primersense harness to arrive and I'll take a look at that area to make sure nothing is loose, but with the short test I did, it indexes right. (I guess).

 

BTW - A new manual revision will be posted soon. (I was told).

 

 

 

Sorry no video, all I have is a picture which is attached.  This bolt in the center that holds the primer rocker arm on, is the one that needs to be tight.  It has a shoulder on it that the rocker rotates on, and the idea is that the bolt is screwed in tight against the press and the width of the shoulder is just enough to allow the primer rocker to still rotate when the bolt is tight.  On mine, when I would tighten that bolt all the way up, the rocker was being bound up and it would not move freely.  Turns out there was a thin shim washer on the bolt that was taking up the slack, causing the binding.  After removing the washer, now I can tighten the bolt up all the way and still have free movement of the rocker.  I used blue loctite on the bolt as directed by MK7 so hopefully won't work loose, but I'll keep checking it periodically.  On the right side under the end of the rocker arm, you can see the black adjustment slider with the locking bolt holding it in place.  This is the adjustment for the "resting" height of the primer insertion rod, which is what you can see partially above that with the spring on it.  Adjusting this slider changes the height that the rod is resting at in relation to the primer pickup bar that grabs a primer from the feeder tube and then brings is over to be inserted into a case.  If it's adjusted too high then the pickup bar can drag on the tip of the rod causing indexing or primer issues.  It is supposed to be flush with the top of the bushing that holds it in the primer channel in the press, and no higher. This should be adjusted accordingly and then the bolt tightened and make sure it stays tight.  You'll want to check both those bolts periodically just to make sure they're staying tight, as vibrations from operating the press could loosen them over time.  That's part of MK7's normal press maintenance procedure to check these periodically.  If either bolt is coming loose, it can show up as other issues that you won't immediately know is being caused by this, which in my case was primers getting flipped sidways in the primer feeding bar.  In others, it has showed up as indexing issues.

 

[Stymie12000]

19 minutes ago, Tanfastic said:

 

Sorry no video, all I have is a picture which is attached.  This bolt in the center that holds the primer rocker arm on, is the one that needs to be tight.  It has a shoulder on it that the rocker rotates on, and the idea is that the bolt is screwed in tight against the press and the width of the shoulder is just enough to allow the primer rocker to still rotate when the bolt is tight.  On mine, when I would tighten that bolt all the way up, the rocker was being bound up and it would not move freely.  Turns out there was a thin shim washer on the bolt that was taking up the slack, causing the binding.  After removing the washer, now I can tighten the bolt up all the way and still have free movement of the rocker.  I used blue loctite on the bolt as directed by MK7 so hopefully won't work loose, but I'll keep checking it periodically.  On the right side under the end of the rocker arm, you can see the black adjustment slider with the locking bolt holding it in place.  This is the adjustment for the "resting" height of the primer insertion rod, which is what you can see partially above that with the spring on it.  Adjusting this slider changes the height that the rod is resting at in relation to the primer pickup bar that grabs a primer from the feeder tube and then brings is over to be inserted into a case.  If it's adjusted too high then the pickup bar can drag on the tip of the rod causing indexing or primer issues.  It is supposed to be flush with the top of the bushing that holds it in the primer channel in the press, and no higher. This should be adjusted accordingly and then the bolt tightened and make sure it stays tight.  You'll want to check both those bolts periodically just to make sure they're staying tight, as vibrations from operating the press could loosen them over time.  That's part of MK7's normal press maintenance procedure to check these periodically.  If either bolt is coming loose, it can show up as other issues that you won't immediately know is being caused by this, which in my case was primers getting flipped sidways in the primer feeding bar.  In others, it has showed up as indexing issues.

 

I will add, this bolt is very important for proper function. Like you said Tanfastic, make sure this bolt is tight. Also make sure you keep oil on it (per manual). If it keeps loosening even with blue loctite or if the rocker sticks with primer rod in up position.  Contact MK7. The reason why it keeps loosening is probably due to galling between the metal of the rocker and bolt. I had this happen and caused all sorts of problems.  Mk7 has a new harder bolt which should eliminate the galling problem.  And oh yeah, don't forget put a drop of oil on the bolt every loading session! 

 

 

[TRPOperator]

After adjusting the slider I loaded a couple hundred rounds and have zero issues with the primer slide bar sticking and only got one primer that was sideways. I will fine tune a bit more and see if I can eliminate that completely. Should have my parts next week to get going with the auto drive I hope. 

[Tanfastic]

On 1/11/2019 at 12:09 PM, TRPOperator said:

After adjusting the slider I loaded a couple hundred rounds and have zero issues with the primer slide bar sticking and only got one primer that was sideways. I will fine tune a bit more and see if I can eliminate that completely. Should have my parts next week to get going with the auto drive I hope. 

 

Also check the hole in the primer loading slider bar (or whatever it's called, the silver sliding bar that shuttles the primers from the tube over to the shell plate).  Run your finger across the primer hole in the bar and see if you can feel any burrs on it, if so use something with very fine grit to gently smooth that out.  Primers "catching" on the lip of that hole can cause them to flip.  Also make sure there isn't grease or gunk down in the channel that the slider slides in, if it get's slowed down in it's movement due to this it can also cause problems.

 

ADMINS: Would it make sense to split out a separate "Mark 7 Evoluotion Troubleshooting" thread from this discussion, as it's already at 55 pages of mostly blather, and will be difficult for the technical content to provide value to new Evo press owners if these posts are left buried in the middle of all this?  Just a suggestion.

 

Edited by GrumpyOne...We are working on splitting the posts out that you suggested.

[LowBoost]

Checked the bolt and everything else. Tight and everything moves freely. I started setting up my powder charge and noticed that when setting the powder measure die height in order to have the drum rotate and lift the upper assembly, that it would get stuck as it rotates to the up position even though it has not reached the complete "dump" position. I guess as long as I can get the desired charge it should be OK?

 

[Tanfastic]

4 minutes ago, LowBoost said:

Checked the bolt and everything else. Tight and everything moves freely. I started setting up my powder charge and noticed that when setting the powder measure die height in order to have the drum rotate and lift the upper assembly, that it would get stuck as it rotates to the up position even though it has not reached the complete "dump" position. I guess as long as I can get the desired charge it should be OK?

 

 

No, definitely NOT ok, the drum needs to rotate fully up.

[LowBoost]

I removed the primer tube to make it easier to rotate the powder assembly. I removed the two screws holding down the assembly to the die and adjusted it as much as I could.

It is "almost" there, but at this point it is adding some additional flare to the brass. 

 

Edited January 12, 2019 by LowBoost

[Tanfastic]

25 minutes ago, LowBoost said:

I removed the primer tube to make it easier to rotate the powder assembly. I removed the two screws holding down the assembly to the die and adjusted it as much as I could.

It is "almost" there, but at this point it is adding some additional flare to the brass. 

 

 

Do you have the MK7 powder funnel in the powder measure, and NOT the Mr Bullet Feeder flare funnel?

Edited January 12, 2019 by Tanfastic

[LowBoost]

Yes, I have the MK7 funnel. I am not using the Mr. Bullet Feeder funnel at all. (Station 5 using a Redding Premium Expander Die)

I kept trying slowly until I managed to get it go all the way up, but I have more flare than what it should. Not a huge deal as the bullet is not tipping and any flare will be taken care of by the crimp die.

 

I may give it another try tomorrow to see if I can really nail it down. Just tired after 5 hours of fiddling with it Today.

[teros135]

Do you have the charge screw turned all the way in, or nearly all the way?  Mine did pretty much the same thing until I started to screw it out a bit, then it rotated smoothly.  I'm loading 10.4 gr of AA7, so I don't know how far it has to be screwed in for, say, 3.1 gr of Titegroup.  That'll come later.

 

Actually, what I've done is to use my Dillon measure, with a Uniquetek micrometer adjustment and dual return springs instead of the Dillon "fail safe" rod.  Works like a charm up to the Evo's max speed of 2500.  The Evo measure is sitting to the side until they figure it out (and put a micrometer or marked dial on it).  I've heard the Hornady rotary measure also works pretty well.  

 

 

[LowBoost]

Actually, it is near all the way in. Maybe a 1/4 turn out. I will try that tomorrow although it is not sticking right now. The additional flare is what bothers me now.

[teros135]

I'm gonna bet that's it.  Back that sucker out some.  When it moves freely, you'll also lose the extra flare, because you're putting less force on the case.  

 

Edited January 12, 2019 by teros135

[Smithcity]

Regarding the powder drop accuracy discussion and comments on powder variation vs speed. Went and ran some tests. In the data below:

"Manual" = machine isn't running, with the tool head in the up position, I placed a case under the powder funnel, pushed the powder funnel up until the powder funnel hits the top of the powder die, then I manually actuated the rotary arm with my other hand.

"1k RPH BD:2" = machine set to 1000 rph and bottom dwell setting of 2

"1.9k RPH BD:2" = machine set to 1900 rph and bottom dwell setting of 2

 

The shell plate was completely empty except for one case under the powder station. I used the same case for each measurement. I also visually watched the powder arm fully rotate each time.

 

I only have a dillon and hornady scale, neither are great. Dillon always measured a bit heavier than the hornady. 

I'm running VVN340 powder in 9mm cases.

 

"MAX" numbers refer to the full data set for the particular speed from both scales.

 

 

Seems the drop is indeed speed dependent. I'm getting +- 0.1 to 0.15gr depending on speed, which scale you pick, and if you pick the compilation of both scales for a run (probably not fair). A 4.42% to 6.76% variation. I'd be happy with sub 5%. So for any given speed, the drop looks decent. The problem comes in for the "overall" analysis. Up to a 0.5gr spread or 11.39% variation. 

 

Usually when I start the press up, I run at the lowest speeds single cycle while filling the shell plate, making sure every station is working correctly. Then I let it run automated at the lowest speed for ~20 rounds to watch the overall press. If everything looks fine I start speeding it up. Looks like a great way to have an inconsistent load.

 

 

Edited January 13, 2019 by Smithcity