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Ruger gp100


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Say I wanted to play with one of these on weekend while being reliable for hiking/backpacking/hunting sidearm... what can or cannot be done/expected?

 

10mm chamber.

 

I had wondered about having cylinder reamed for 10mm mag, a new barrel done up and using weigatiny rail ontop with an optic. Be it a dot or fixed magnified glass. While still being able to use the adjustable sight as need may be.

 

It seems like there are limited to no major parts available for upgrade. Basically polish and square the internals, lighter spring set and extended firing pin.

 

Looking to shoot mostly lead.

 

Potentially a porting to barrel.

 

What is review on shims for internals? Yay or nay?

 

Help me out guys. I know nothing about revolvers other than some skimming over load datas, old forum posts and seeing a few raced up smiths on a range.

 

Thank you!

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I’m a but confused here. You want to take a match GP100 chambered in 10 mm auto and have someone ream it out to 10 magnum? The old AMT cartridge? If so why wouldn’t you just buy a 41 or 44 magnum? I don’t know if the cylinder is even long enough to accommodate the 10 mm magnum.

 

If you want a custom barrel MoJo and Pinnacle are the two Revo shop that come to mind. Pinnacle is probably more up your alley if you’re looking for a custom barrel with ports or a comp.

 

There are plenty of optics mounts but they require removal of the rear sight to use the holes present in the back strap. I don’t run anything on any of mine so I’m not a leading authority on mounts; I might be unaware of a product that works for you.

 

I don’t know what your question regarding shims are but shimming is done as needed.  There are also lots of places to potentially shim on a revolver.

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10mm mag has very similar dimensions as 357mag in brass and coal. A few tenths.

 

Should also be similar of lighter 41mag loads. The 160-180gr range. Most people say 6shot in 41mag is a little risky? Something about the index cut on cylinder gets very close to chamber bore, can cause a crack to occur.

 

I am aware the weigatiny rail uses a different quick detach front sight and removes the rear. The video shows it being done fairly quick.

 

Basically, a way to find another 200fps with similar projectile weight. I had in mind the 165gr penn state truncated cone bullets. With aspirations to hit roughly 1500fps. Should produce a relatively flat shooting yet manageable handgun. Would suspect it perform well on animals up to 300lbs.

 

I honestly was thinking a lipsey's blued 10mm gp100. Cheap enough on gunbroker if you wait. Grips, sights and a barrel swap. Cylinder work and action job.

 

Trying to learn more about these guns and what is realistic in modification or expectation.

 

Such as, with a cylinder to forcing cone gap roughly around .005 to .006" and a similar gap between the brass and blast shield - everything should be happy firing coated lead at magnum speed? PennState claims their higher quality alloy and coating will handle up to 2000fps.

 

The ports in barrel make a noticeable shift of reduction to muzzlerise?

 

I was told taylor throating is considered ideal. Being it would give me roughly 0.75" of smooth bore after forcing cone. Rule of thumb was 1.5 to 2.0 times projectile diameter when throating.

 

Any insight, guidance, advice is all appreciated.

 

One thing I also am curious about - plating cylinders. I have seen chrome and nickel plated guns. What is the advice here?

 

Thank you all!

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