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2.5 lb trigger job?


currahee1911
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48 minutes ago, sauza45 said:

Brazos has a trigger kit that works great.

i've done three of these on 2011's.  on my most recent (about a year ago) i just checked and consistently at 2.5# over five pulls with a timney spring gauge.  but i just checked the first one i did a couple years back and that's showing 4.5#, so not sure what's going on there (didn't have a gauge before recently).

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Really wish I'd have known this stuff a couple of years ago. I did the EGW kit on my range officer and it's pretty much the same as stock, maybe a touch lighter. My STI is easily less than half of it. 

 

There's only 1 gunsmith shop here in South Jersey, I think it's called winters or something, I talked to him once on the phone and he was a total miserable POS. 

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2 hours ago, louu said:

Really wish I'd have known this stuff a couple of years ago. I did the EGW kit on my range officer and it's pretty much the same as stock, maybe a touch lighter. My STI is easily less than half of it. 

 

There's only 1 gunsmith shop here in South Jersey, I think it's called winters or something, I talked to him once on the phone and he was a total miserable POS. 

louu:

A really trusted name in the business told me to always check the "residual resistance" in a set/kit prior to replacing.  This is easy to do: leaving the Grip Safety AND Sear Spring out of the pistol, cock the hammer and engage the sear with a small punch/etc., hold the gun on its side or upside down,  and push the disconnector up so it will engage the sear.  Now measure the pull weight to release.  If the current parts are in a 6 to 12 oz average for this pull weight, then you'll be able to gain that preferred weight by simply working with the sear spring.  Just remember you'll have that "residual resistance" amount to add into your final desired pull weight.  And I have been taught to never have less than 16oz on the disconnector leaf of the SS.

 

HTHs

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13 hours ago, HOGRIDER said:

louu:

A really trusted name in the business told me to always check the "residual resistance" in a set/kit prior to replacing.  This is easy to do: leaving the Grip Safety AND Sear Spring out of the pistol, cock the hammer and engage the sear with a small punch/etc., hold the gun on its side or upside down,  and push the disconnector up so it will engage the sear.  Now measure the pull weight to release.  If the current parts are in a 6 to 12 oz average for this pull weight, then you'll be able to gain that preferred weight by simply working with the sear spring.  Just remember you'll have that "residual resistance" amount to add into your final desired pull weight.  And I have been taught to never have less than 16oz on the disconnector leaf of the SS.

 

HTHs

Thanks bud I'll check it out 

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  • 2 weeks later...
So, I saw a video a while back for the Nighthawk drop in modular trigger unit. I gotta say, it's a pretty slick concept and it turns out that the guy who came up with the idea is local to me and shoots some of the same matches I do. I bought one prior to this COVID mess, however, I haven't had a chance to mess with it until recently. I decided to stick it in a .45 ACP single stack that a local guy put together from Fusion parts several years ago. It wasn't a great trigger, so I installed the Nighthawk parts, which was way easier than expected.  I had to do very minor fitting of the thumb safety, but nothing else. The trigger was crisp and better than what I started with but definitely heavier than I was looking for (3.75#).  After about 200 rounds, it seemed to drop by an ounce or two, but was still heavier than I wanted.  Likely great for a carry gun but I'm to lighter triggers. Normally, I would start bending on the legs of the sear spring but the Nighthawk supplied leaf spring only has one leg on it, and it only controls the grip safety.
 
Looking at the unit, there was a big gob of red tamper paint covering what looked to be the end of a set screw. That had to be pushing on the back of a spring that put pressure on the sear. Since pretty much everything to do with guns has to be messed with a bit, I got out a can of acetone and a q-tip to see if the paint would come off. The paint came off, and there was a set screw underneath. I put an allen wrench in it, but no love, it wouldn't budge. I assumed that Nighthawk had probably Loc-tited the screw in place, so naturally I baked it for 30 minutes at 300 degrees. After it cooled off, the screw moved. I stuck it back in the gun and checked the pull weight after backing out the set screw a bit. Sure enough, the pull weight had dropped to just about 3#. I backed the screw out a bit more, but the pull weight seemed to bottom out around 2.75-3#. After a bit of fishing around in my parts box, I found a bag with an #18 hammer spring. After I replaced whatever heavy-ass spring that was in the mainspring housing with the 18, the pull weight was somewhere in between 2.5# and 2.75#. It felt good and seemed to work pretty well at that weight.
 
After a range trip since I messed with it, I like what I ended up with even if it did take a bit of messing around. I like the idea of being able to put this in other guns that I have and get a consistent trigger between the guns. It also seems to be pretty much fully adjustable now. I also like that since it is all housed in one unit, the placement of the hammer and sear pin holes in a bad frame probably won't affect it as much as traditional parts. It is definitely more expensive than just buying a set of parts, but it does avoid sending your gun out to a gunsmith. I think it is a pretty good option for someone who doesn't want to take the time to learn how to mess with traditional 1911 parts. 

MD SS 1.jpg

MD SS 4.jpg

MD SS 2.jpg

MD SS 3.jpg

MD SS 6.jpg

MD SS 5.jpg

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