Sebo weapons new Czechmate titanium comp.

[Stmark73]

For those that already received there sebo comp. Did your comp screw all the way in and lined up with the slide  or did you back out half a turn to line it up with the slide? With my comp, I had to back out half a turn to line up with the slide. With that half turn out, the barrel/comp has a litlle wiggle.

thank you, 

Mark Santos

[gianmarko]

just for information. when i have fitted the Sebo comp i have also fitted a new barrell as the old one had the lug a bit deformed where it hits the slide stop pin at the end of the cycle. it had probably some 40k rounds on it

 

since then i have already gone through 2 slide stop pins. less than 1000 rds each.
 

i will probably fit the old barrell and see if problem is the new barrell or the comp

[gianmarko]

On 6/21/2020 at 2:22 AM, Stmark73 said:

For those that already received there sebo comp. Did your comp screw all the way in and lined up with the slide  or did you back out half a turn to line it up with the slide? With my comp, I had to back out half a turn to line up with the slide. With that half turn out, the barrel/comp has a litlle wiggle.

thank you, 

Mark Santos

not sure what you mean. can you do half turns? 

my comp fitted fine with no mods or work. 

[Specialneeds]

38 minutes ago, gianmarko said:

just for information. when i have fitted the Sebo comp i have also fitted a new barrell as the old one had the lug a bit deformed where it hits the slide stop pin at the end of the cycle. it had probably some 40k rounds on it

 

since then i have already gone through 2 slide stop pins. less than 1000 rds each.
 

i will probably fit the old barrell and see if problem is the new barrell or the comp

 

I thought this was a common issue? The slide stop pin absorbs all the rearward motion of barrel. Whereas the 1911 style pistol has a vertical&horizontal impact surface for barrel to stop against.

 

I used to shoot a checkmate.. but not for terribly long.

 

Maybe because you reduced the barrel weight by changing from steel to titanium compensator, the dwell time has decreased. Thus causing barrel to impact the slide stop pin at a higher velocity. Which equates to having more energy.

 

I was told it is not uncommon for people to use hardened steel/tool steel pins as a replacement for the slidestop. Effectively having no lockback mechanism at all. However, I was also told this only provided a slightly longer lifespan of the acknowledged 'consumbale' slide stop.

 

I am not sure a slight amount of peening in your lower lug would be concern. Unless the slide is travelling beyond operating tolerances for trigger/disconnector function while in battery.

[Stmark73]

6 hours ago, gianmarko said:

not sure what you mean. can you do half turns? 

my comp fitted fine with no mods or work. 

When the comp is screwed all the way in, the guide rod hole is clocked at 12 o clock (comp upside down.) The reason for that half turn out. I like it to be like the oe comp where the last turn tightens the comp to the barrel and not just the guide rod holding it in place.

[kneelingatlas]

8 minutes ago, Stmark73 said:

When the comp is screwed all the way in, the guide rod hole is clocked at 12 o clock (comp upside down.) The reason for that half turn out. I like it to be like the oe comp where the last turn tightens the comp to the barrel and not just the guide rod holding it in place.

 

I understand what you're trying to do, if you start with a TS barrel, thread it yourself and trial fit you can get what you're looking for

[kneelingatlas]

5 hours ago, Specialneeds said:

 

I thought this was a common issue? The slide stop pin absorbs all the rearward motion of barrel. Whereas the 1911 style pistol has a vertical&horizontal impact surface for barrel to stop against.

 

I used to shoot a checkmate.. but not for terribly long.

 

Maybe because you reduced the barrel weight by changing from steel to titanium compensator, the dwell time has decreased. Thus causing barrel to impact the slide stop pin at a higher velocity. Which equates to having more energy.

 

I was told it is not uncommon for people to use hardened steel/tool steel pins as a replacement for the slidestop. Effectively having no lockback mechanism at all. However, I was also told this only provided a slightly longer lifespan of the acknowledged 'consumbale' slide stop.

 

I am not sure a slight amount of peening in your lower lug would be concern. Unless the slide is travelling beyond operating tolerances for trigger/disconnector function while in battery.

 

My experience defies this logic, I've been running an aluminum comp (1/2 the weight of the steel comp and a half ounce lighter than the Sebo comp) for more than two years and tens of thousands of rounds and have yet to change my factory slide stop.

[regor]

Is it normal to have a bit of a gap between the comp and slide or should they be pretty close to flush? I have two CMs, one sits flush and the other is about ¼ turn from getting to a flush position before the comp won’t screw in any more. I suppose I could chase the threads but I’m nervous that that could lead to the comp and slide touching and one of the cracking. 

Edited July 4, 2020 by regor

[kneelingatlas]

You should have some daylight between the slide and the comp

[gianmarko]

18 hours ago, Specialneeds said:

 

I thought this was a common issue? The slide stop pin absorbs all the rearward motion of barrel. Whereas the 1911 style pistol has a vertical&horizontal impact surface for barrel to stop against.

 

I used to shoot a checkmate.. but not for terribly long.

 

Maybe because you reduced the barrel weight by changing from steel to titanium compensator, the dwell time has decreased. Thus causing barrel to impact the slide stop pin at a higher velocity. Which equates to having more energy.

 

I was told it is not uncommon for people to use hardened steel/tool steel pins as a replacement for the slidestop. Effectively having no lockback mechanism at all. However, I was also told this only provided a slightly longer lifespan of the acknowledged 'consumbale' slide stop.

 

I am not sure a slight amount of peening in your lower lug would be concern. Unless the slide is travelling beyond operating tolerances for trigger/disconnector function while in battery.

slide stop pins do fail. but they usually last 5-7k rounds. these ones lasted less than 1000.

and i am using hardened steel pins that usually last a bit longer than the standard CZ pins. as far as i know nobody has been able to find material that would last more than a few 1000 rounds. the pins im using are really tough, they come from a large impact wrench. i tried other materials but they fail very very quickly, or bend.

now i have fitted a Sebo slide stop pin, see how it goes. they are way cheaper than the CZ ones, assuming you can find them. 

 

as i changed both barrel and comp, the problem could be the barrel. thats why i will re-fit the old one to remove one variable

 

 

 

[gianmarko]

7 hours ago, regor said:

Is it normal to have a bit of a gap between the comp and slide or should they be pretty close to flush? I have two CMs, one sits flush and the other is about ¼ turn from getting to a flush position before the comp won’t screw in any more. I suppose I could chase the threads but I’m nervous that that could lead to the comp and slide touching and one of the cracking. 

my CM n.2 was never properly fitted at the factory. currently i have 0.8 mm between slide and comp. she however shoots fine, and is as accurate as n.1 and n.3

[regor]

13 hours ago, gianmarko said:

my CM n.2 was never properly fitted at the factory. currently i have 0.8 mm between slide and comp. she however shoots fine, and is as accurate as n.1 and n.3

That’s about the gap mine has. It’s noticeable but it shoots just fine. I did find that I can drop in the barrel and comp from my primary CM and it fits flush and functions fine, so I think it’s probably just the threading on my barrel. I could probably chase it with the correct threading die to get that extra ¼ rotation. 

[gianmarko]

14 hours ago, regor said:

That’s about the gap mine has. It’s noticeable but it shoots just fine. I did find that I can drop in the barrel and comp from my primary CM and it fits flush and functions fine, so I think it’s probably just the threading on my barrel. I could probably chase it with the correct threading die to get that extra ¼ rotation. 

i would also need to extend the thread in the barrel and machine the comp a little to fit correctly, but as the gun shoots fine...

the other 2 CM will drop in any barrel/comp without the need of any fitting. i think the N.2 was not properly fitted at the factory. in fact, of the 3 barrels that were in the box, only 1 fitted correctly. 

[Specialneeds]

I hate to be the one to say it.. possibly it is your load? The czechmate is not exactly a well built machine.

 

Kneeling, if you have had no issues with running an aluminum muzzle device.. good for you. I would be very interested to know the rate which you replace it.

 

The cz pistol already has a very high cyclic rate. Mostly due to the lower weight slide. I would definitely not lighten the barrel assembly any at all on these guns. I have seen people gut the slide but..

 

Your miles may vary.

 

If the slidestop is not binding from the lower lug being improperly dimensioned versus the upper lugs on barrel; really struggle to see what would cause the issue? To my understanding the czechmate eats slide stops. Period. So much that all the shooters tend to carry spares and check it before every stage at a shoot.

 

I never liked the gun personally. It looked great. Until I used one.. which is why mine went away after two quick seasons.

 

Hopefully you figure out what is not properly fitted...

[gianmarko]

15 hours ago, Specialneeds said:

I hate to be the one to say it.. possibly it is your load? The czechmate is not exactly a well built machine.

 

Kneeling, if you have had no issues with running an aluminum muzzle device.. good for you. I would be very interested to know the rate which you replace it.

 

The cz pistol already has a very high cyclic rate. Mostly due to the lower weight slide. I would definitely not lighten the barrel assembly any at all on these guns. I have seen people gut the slide but..

 

Your miles may vary.

 

If the slidestop is not binding from the lower lug being improperly dimensioned versus the upper lugs on barrel; really struggle to see what would cause the issue? To my understanding the czechmate eats slide stops. Period. So much that all the shooters tend to carry spares and check it before every stage at a shoot.

 

I never liked the gun personally. It looked great. Until I used one.. which is why mine went away after two quick seasons.

 

Hopefully you figure out what is not properly fitted...

loads are ok, check them regularly and i have been using the same recipe since years

CM's surely break slide stops, but not every 5-700 rounds... 

[Stmark73]

On 7/3/2020 at 12:33 PM, kneelingatlas said:

 

I understand what you're trying to do, if you start with a TS barrel, thread it yourself and trial fit you can get what you're looking for

What I did was file about half a thread off from the compensator, now the clocking of the comp is perfect. The problem now, I have to file about 1mm off from the face of the comp. LOL

Thank you,

Mark Santos

[Kirkster]

Kind of digging up a older thread here, but my compensator has a 1.22 mm gap.  It seems to run well but that gap has always concerned me when I see photos of other guns with minimal gap.  

 

It will turn a 1/4 of a turn past where it is now but then stops,  I am unsure if the compensator is out of depth to screw on further, or if the barrel is out of threads.  I figure if I had one more turn on there the compensator would be pretty much perfect with .22mm gap.  

 

I know it is a M14x1 die.  I do not know if the barrel is hardened and would preclude being further threaded.

 

Thoughts?

 

 

Edited July 16, 2021 by Kirkster
Image issues

[regor]

2 hours ago, Kirkster said:

Kind of digging up a older thread here, but my compensator has a 1.22 mm gap.  It seems to run well but that gap has always concerned me when I see photos of other guns with minimal gap.  

 

It will turn a 1/4 of a turn past where it is now but then stops,  I am unsure if the compensator is out of depth to screw on further, or if the barrel is out of threads.  I figure if I had one more turn on there the compensator would be pretty much perfect with .22mm gap.  

 

I know it is a M14x1 die.  I do not know if the barrel is hardened and would preclude being further threaded.

 

Thoughts?

 

 

 

I chased the threads on one of my barrels to fit @kneelingatlas's aluminum comp and chased the threads on my backup gun's barrel to close the gap on the factory comp. You may end up with a loose fit if you go a little too far, but the recoil rod keeps the comp indexed so I'm not sure that really matters too much. 

[George16]

The barrel is not hardened at all. I had my barrels reamed without any problems. I also chased the threads on both the barrel and comp but be careful. Do it in small increments and test fit often.

 

Before you do any thread chasing, double check to make sure the reverse plug is installed properly and there are not dirt or debris inside.

 

By the way, have you tried threading the comp into the barrel all the way while they’re out of the slide to check if there are enough threads on both?

[Kirkster]

I also had both of my barrels reamed out to 1.175 did not even occur that the barrels being hardened would stop it from being reamed.

 

I have had both barrels in and out of the gun they both will thread to the same point.  1/4 turn past where it sits in that photo and then a hard stop.  

 

So I guess I will order up a tap and die in M14X1.  I was able to look inside the last port on the comp and it looks like it would thread in further without the comp being a stoping point.

[-JCN-]

Any reviews on whether the side popple comps are an improvement over factory?

[zdali]

4 hours ago, -JCN- said:

Any reviews on whether the side popple comps are an improvement over factory?

Definitely. They keep the RO away