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ngodwetrust21

Stock Master

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Posted (edited)
50 minutes ago, FALAR said:

 

So when they advertise them as extended, that is false?

 

wow

 

Firing pin stuff is confusing. Both of these were oems from Tanfo stock 2's. The one on the right started giving me light strikes, my thinking was that energy transfer from the hammer went south as the hammer contact area of the pin shortened with use.

998529172_firingpins2.jpg.2c243cac2d96591c9930fdbbf10dfc40.jpg

 

 

I'm also pretty sure that PD is on at least version 2 of their pin, do not know what they changed.

 

If you have played with different firing pins your gun may or may not pass a safety check (firing pin block may or may not stop the new pin). 

Edited by IHAVEGAS

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1 hour ago, FALAR said:

 

So when they advertise them as extended, that is false?

 

wow

Possibly. I have not had experience with unica firing pin but that's what was said here on Enos. 

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2 hours ago, FALAR said:

 

So when they advertise them as extended, that is false?

 

wow

I guess. I have no personal experience with the unica.

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1 hour ago, IHAVEGAS said:

Even with the bolo modified to maximize hammer travel in d.a.? There is a neat thread around here somewhere about shaving them down as much as you can get by with. 

It still doesn't travel as far back in DA as with factory Interruptor. 

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2 hours ago, IHAVEGAS said:

 

Firing pin stuff is confusing. Both of these were oems from Tanfo stock 2's. The one on the right started giving me light strikes, my thinking was that energy transfer from the hammer went south as the hammer contact area of the pin shortened with use.

998529172_firingpins2.jpg.2c243cac2d96591c9930fdbbf10dfc40.jpg

 

 

I'm also pretty sure that PD is on at least version 2 of their pin, do not know what they changed.

 

If you have played with different firing pins your gun may or may not pass a safety check (firing pin block may or may not stop the new pin). 


Out of curiosity, how would one check to make sure the firing pin block is still working? Asking for a friend of course.

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6 minutes ago, ngodwetrust21 said:


Out of curiosity, how would one check to make sure the firing pin block is still working? Asking for a friend of course.

Cock hammer back, push firing pin in with a punch, the fp block should stop it.

Now holding the hammer back and pull trigger just enough for sear to clear hammer hooks, push firing pin in with a punch, it should easily slide forward. 

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2 hours ago, IHAVEGAS said:

I'm also pretty sure that PD is on at least version 2 of their pin, do not know what they changed.

The second version, the pin is more gradually thickened from front to back, avoiding breakage. 

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42 minutes ago, Polymer said:

Cock hammer back, push firing pin in with a punch, the fp block should stop it.

Now holding the hammer back and pull trigger just enough for sear to clear hammer hooks, push firing pin in with a punch, it should easily slide forward. 

 

I sort of hit it with the punch five times or so to try and make it fail. 

 

57 minutes ago, ngodwetrust21 said:

Asking for a friend of course.

 

:) 

 

 

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19 hours ago, Polymer said:

It still doesn't travel as far back in DA as with factory Interruptor. 


Correct. But mostly, as I said above? I prefer a bit of a rolling break. I found I didn’t like the 2011-like trigger which a lot of guys are after. I shoot polymer guns too much.

 

If you want your SA to behave like a good 1911/2011 then the titan/bolo combination is a good choice and you should buy the Patriot stuff.

 

...Just know that primer seating depth is very important. IMO, a 1050 is the way to go for Tanfos. Mine buries CCI primers in consistently swaged pockets .005”-.009” below flush. I used to obsessively check my primers when running ammo through the hundo case gauge after it came out of my 650.

 

Now I barely glance at them, save to check for flipped primers. (It also helps that I’m running a Walther Q5 with the factory striker spring, which lights off anything.)

 

 

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Posted (edited)

See here for instructions on increasing hammer travel with the bolo.

 

 

Before doing this, degrease the gun and coat the ramp in the frame with a sharpie and dryfire it in DA a few dozen times: If your disconnector isn’t rubbing it, the adjustment will gain you nothing. This dimension varies widely from gun to gun.

 

I’d also recommend doing the same for the half-cock notch and the firing pin block and firing pin. If your sear is contacting the half-cock notch on the hammer, or your firing pin is making contact with the safety block... you need to remedy those issues first.

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic

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On 5/25/2020 at 12:16 AM, Polymer said:

Was able to shoot few matches with stock master. Incredible gun, but it didn't magically improve my scores like everyone wants.

 

I'm shocked.  Shocked, I tell you.......

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On 5/25/2020 at 2:18 PM, MemphisMechanic said:

If I were to build another tanfo, it’d get a full workup of good springs, and a single piece sear. However the trigger, hammer, and disco would be left alone.

Incidentally enough, that’s the setup that many of the guys winning major matches with one happen to be running.

 

This is an interesting comment....and of course I find it so as I do value your opinion with Stock 2's.

Even with the must have Delta hammer and Bolo changes you would just keep it simple (and sprung, polished, etc).

 

What made you really come down to this conclusion?

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Posted (edited)

@RGC because triggers in general don’t matter as much as people think, and as I said, the worst thing I did to my Tanfo was turn it into a gorgeous 1911 trigger. I prefer they creep as weight is added between the wall and the break.

 

I don’t want it to stack, but I prefer guns that roll back linearly as your pull progresses. Factory Tanfos have really good triggers with a respring and a LOT of polishing.

 

In other words? Personal preference.

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic

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Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

@RGC because triggers in general don’t matter as much as people think, and as I said, the worst thing I did to my Tanfo was turn it into a gorgeous 1911 trigger. I prefer they creep as weight is added between the wall and the break.

 

I don’t want it to stack, but I prefer guns that roll back linearly as your pull progresses. Factory Tanfos have really good triggers with a respring and a LOT of polishing.

 

In other words? Personal preference.

 

 

I get the feeling that you would do well with a good wheel gun. 

 

Edit: Which reminds me. I think the reason that a Tanfo trigger tuned as you noted makes me crazy might be the same reason Jerry Miculek does not run a super light wheel gun trigger, the long travel back with very little spring pressure assisting the trigger just feels wrong. 

Edited by IHAVEGAS

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Hmm.  I am coming from single stack shooting for 8 years......

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@IHAVEGAS that’s definitely true. After years shooting polymer guns, and with a strong desire to keep shooting them well? I never liked the fully-decked Tanfo’s complete lack of travel as weight was added to the trigger for a precise shot. Nor did I care for the ultralight return forward.

 

This one is purely a preference thing.

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Ahh, that makes sense.  Getting into some really, really good triggers outside of 1911s (CZs, Tanfoglios are doublestack) made me dump my remaining polymer guns never to return.  I'm a "life is too short to suffer polymer triggers" kind of guy, which is why I've always hated striker guns.

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Posted (edited)
53 minutes ago, FALAR said:

Ahh, that makes sense.  Getting into some really, really good triggers outside of 1911s (CZs, Tanfoglios are doublestack) made me dump my remaining polymer guns never to return.  I'm a "life is too short to suffer polymer triggers" kind of guy, which is why I've always hated striker guns.


On the other hand, if I carry polymer guns daily then I’ll keep running a similar mechanism in my competition guns.


You’ll shoot the same score with either platform given equal levels of practice, so it really doesn’t matter which one you ultimately choose. It’s all just shooting what you personally enjoy. :D 
 

Edited by MemphisMechanic

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On 5/25/2020 at 7:14 PM, IHAVEGAS said:

 

I sort of hit it with the punch five times or so to try and make it fail. 

 

 

:) 

 

 


If the firing pin block does not work, how do you go about fixing it?
 

 

 

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, ngodwetrust21 said:


If the firing pin block does not work, how do you go about fixing it?
 

 

If the gun has an extended fpb that was fit (filed down) replacing and refitting may do it. Where I got into the problem was installing a PD firing pin in a gun that had a stock pin initially, so I was able to get out of it by going back to the original, there were small but measurable differences in pin diameter.  

 

Talking to PD, they had seen at least one gun where an extended fpb had to have material added rather than needing to be filed down. 

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1 hour ago, IHAVEGAS said:

 

If the gun has an extended fpb that was fit (filed down) replacing and refitting may do it. Where I got into the problem was installing a PD firing pin in a gun that had a stock pin initially, so I was able to get out of it by going back to the original, there were small but measurable differences in pin diameter.  

 

Talking to PD, they had seen at least one gun where an extended fpb had to have material added rather than needing to be filed down. 


will one of y’all send me how the firing pin is supposed to sit in the firing pin block. Is it possible to put the firing pin in wrong?

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11 hours ago, ngodwetrust21 said:


will one of y’all send me how the firing pin is supposed to sit in the firing pin block. Is it possible to put the firing pin in wrong?

 

Firing pin install starts around 4:30.

 

 

 

 

I strongly recommend watching all 4 videos to anyone who is going to be a Tanfo person. MM did a heck of a job. 

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On 4/19/2020 at 12:30 PM, FALAR said:

You'd think the Tanfolgio hammer geometry would be similar enough to a CZs that we could get away with lighter springs.

 

In my CZs I run 12lb hammer springs with extended firing pins/reduced power firing pin springs and can still ignite IMI and M885 primers 100%.

 

My Tanfoglios have 15.5 (as recommended by PD for 100% reliability) and luckily I don't need to go lower as after PDs work the DA is extremely light even with a 15.5lb and I still went with extended firing pin/reduced power firing pin springs for an extra margin of safety since I've seen a few "help I'm getting light strikes" posts here before even with what I'd consider heavier springs, like 14s and 15.5s.  Strangely, I can't launch a pencil out of the barrel of my DA Tanfoglio with a 15.5lb as far as I can with one of my CZs with a 12lb but lucky for me I've had no issues yet.

 

That's odd, while I don't get light strikes on any of my Tanfos or CZ, my Tanfo all launch a pencil a foot out of the barrel and my SP-01 (AFAIK box stoch from the PO) barely nudges the pencil.

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On 4/19/2020 at 12:30 PM, FALAR said:

You'd think the Tanfolgio hammer geometry would be similar enough to a CZs that we could get away with lighter springs.

 

In my CZs I run 12lb hammer springs with extended firing pins/reduced power firing pin springs and can still ignite IMI and M885 primers 100%.

 

My Tanfoglios have 15.5 (as recommended by PD for 100% reliability) and luckily I don't need to go lower as after PDs work the DA is extremely light even with a 15.5lb and I still went with extended firing pin/reduced power firing pin springs for an extra margin of safety since I've seen a few "help I'm getting light strikes" posts here before even with what I'd consider heavier springs, like 14s and 15.5s.  Strangely, I can't launch a pencil out of the barrel of my DA Tanfoglio with a 15.5lb as far as I can with one of my CZs with a 12lb but lucky for me I've had no issues yet.

 

That's odd, while I don't get light strikes on any of my Tanfos or CZ, my Tanfo all launch a pencil a foot out of the barrel and my SP-01 (AFAIK box stock from the PO) barely nudges the pencil.

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So back to the Stock Master....any other feedback?  I have 2 Stock 2's that are fairly decked out (one needs to be shot is all) and getting PD slides made for them but may grab a Stock Master to play with.  I like the feel of the Stock 2 but when Eric Grauffel was in Canada he made me a stock 3 there and I seemed to just outright perform better with it.  That was 6 years ago and its been long gone when I moved to the US but am considering going back to that feel.

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