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Silicon Carbide Grip


Practicalomaha

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What does tamping the SC do?  Is the idea that the SC sits deeper in the epoxy and last longer? 

 

I will be making my first attempt this weekend when all my components arrive.

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@Degnan unless there’s a good mating between each grain and the epoxy, that piece of grit will fall off eventually. Make sure it’s all packed onto the gun well.
 

Then. Take care to scrub ALL the loose media off after 24 hours. You want to get it all off the gun, and make sure to clean it well before taking it to a match.

 

Otherwise it might... say... come off the grip in your holster and jam between the kydex and the gun, scratching the heck out of your slide when you reholster.

 

Ask me how I know tamping then scrubbing is important. Go ahead. Ask.

 

(Thankfully it was a well worn beater G34.)

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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14 minutes ago, mkmckinley said:

Is anyone aware of like a removable epoxy that can be reversed? Or a tape that can be put on the grip before epoxy+SC to facilitate removal? I’d like to try the SC before making it permanent.

I used Talon granulate before switching to 60/90 SC. The Talon granulate grip tape is pretty much the same feel - maybe a little less aggressive. That might be a good way to try before you buy. Not sure what gun you're using, but here's a possible second (risky?) option: I applied the Bob Smith Slow-Cure epoxy and 60/90 SC to two unsanded G34.5 (thoroughly prepped with IPA) as I had read reports of people omitting the sanding with good results. After about a month, a piece over the left thumb groove broke off. I was able to remove the rest by lifting the edges. As you can see in the photo, it came off very cleanly. I decided to reapply since I liked the SC, but I sanded this time. 

Screen Shot 2021-04-15 at 7.42.29 PM.png

Edited by hermes_actual
Clarification.
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9 hours ago, mkmckinley said:

Is anyone aware of like a removable epoxy that can be reversed? Or a tape that can be put on the grip before epoxy+SC to facilitate removal? I’d like to try the SC before making it permanent.

As hermes mentioned above, it can come off if not prepped well but you could likely always sand it off again. 

 

I'm going to demo some different grits I bought of a piece of wood as well as some old stock AR grips before putting it on my glock.

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  • 1 month later...

Here's my attempt at it. Wanted to get rid of the finger grooves while I was at it. Dremeled everything down to smooth. Basically just removed the factory texture. Applied the 6hr JB with a popsicle stick, poured over the SiC 60/90, then tapped it in with my finger to get it to set up and get rid of any high spots left by the Popsicle. Removed the tape after an hour, then let sit overnight. This has right at 1000 rounds on the grip. Still nice and grippy. A little wear but no peels or chips. 

IMG_1264.jpeg

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I have done quite a few and have always used JB plastic bonder(black) with great success.  It is softer that the reg jb and has never chipped or peeled.  Also easy to add in places that need it such as the backstrap.  

 

 

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Edited by echotango
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Anyone ever add weights while doing this? I have some flat tungsten disks and.im tempted to jb then disks then in then grit but I'm not sure if it's worth the effort as it will likely only add about an oz to my glock grip, 2 at the most.

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My Sig P320 grips are a little too small for my taste.  I prefer the large back-straps on my Glocks.  To compensate I have installed the Hogue rubber grip wraps on my P320s.  Will SC & Epoxy stick to rubber grip wraps, or are they not stiff enough?

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14 minutes ago, Degnan said:

My Sig P320 grips are a little too small for my taste.  I prefer the large back-straps on my Glocks.  To compensate I have installed the Hogue rubber grip wraps on my P320s.  Will SC & Epoxy stick to rubber grip wraps, or are they not stiff enough?

Just build it up. I added there jb and shaped it sort like a cz backstrap. Then jb and SC as usual. 

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5 minutes ago, echotango said:

Just build it up. I added there jb and shaped it sort like a cz backstrap. Then jb and SC as usual. 

Agee that is the best method. Was hoping to SC the grip wrap, so I would retain resale value of the pistols. 

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8 hours ago, Degnan said:

Agee that is the best method. Was hoping to SC the grip wrap, so I would retain resale value of the pistols. 

Aren't the 320 grips only like $40-50? You could just buy another grip to modify if you wanted.

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I’ve been using Handle-it Grips skate tape on glocks for the past six months.  My training gun has seen a lot of use in dry fire and live fire without any peeling.  I sanded the factory texture smooth and then cleaned the grip well.  Use heat to activate the adhesive to really stick.  
 

This will be much easier to replace as the texture wears over time.  I expected to change every 6 months, but think it will probably make a year.

 

 

07D0C94F-882B-4C67-B278-FC8058424659.jpeg

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8 hours ago, echotango said:

Not the txg.  About $200.

Yup, I forgot to mention my competition pistols are TXG grip modules and $250 apiece to replace. 
 

The AGX models have me intrigued. Might eventually be able to get large side grip panels. They are $450 right now...

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  • 6 months later...

At this point I’ve probably done 25 or 30 SC jobs on glocks for myself and mainly other people. In my experience the JB weld plastic bonder is definitely the way to go as far as epoxy. I’ve tried others and they all seem to have the same issue. The carbide likes to come off in chunks around corners due to the epoxy not bonding with the plastic on the frame good enough. As far as the carbide goes i like 60/90 grit on competition guns. The only other advice I have is to make sure you tape it off good and if you want it to look professional make sure the tape is on straight and even. 

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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Talon grips are great and I like them. Moved away from them due to:

1. They wear out every couple months (depends on how much you dryfire)

2. Silicon Carbide adds a little more girth to the grip which is great since I have larger hands. 

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