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Thoughts on .40S&W major out of a Stock III 10mm for USPSA?


ElvisUSMC

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I have a Tanfoglio Stock III in 10mm.  It's a great pistol, by far my most accurate, and after tuning shoots awesome.  However, I like to shoot USPSA from time to time, and I'd like to shoot it in Limited (Major), but I'm warring with developing 10mm Soft Major loads and the cost, vs .40 that is loaded to 10mm length and makes about 3-5% over Major PF.  

 

Should I even try to shoot .40 like this in a competition environment? Or if that's what I want to do, do I need to get a .40 conversion barrel (Patriot Defense)?  Or is there trick out there about finding cheap 10mm brass and a soft major PF factor load with 200gr?

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Get the 40 barrel. 40 in a 10mm barrel will headspace off the extractor. If the rim slips off the extractor, the round will fall into the chamber, and will have to most likely be pushed out from the muzzle. Just not worth the hassle. 

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I have a Tanfoglio Stock III in 10mm.  It's a great pistol, by far my most accurate, and after tuning shoots awesome.  However, I like to shoot USPSA from time to time, and I'd like to shoot it in Limited (Major), but I'm warring with developing 10mm Soft Major loads and the cost, vs .40 that is loaded to 10mm length and makes about 3-5% over Major PF.  
 
Should I even try to shoot .40 like this in a competition environment? Or if that's what I want to do, do I need to get a .40 conversion barrel (Patriot Defense)?  Or is there trick out there about finding cheap 10mm brass and a soft major PF factor load with 200gr?
Get the 40 barrel, work up a load (4.5gr WST @ 1.140 w/180gr polymer coated bullet), and practice a lot as well as shoot matches when they start. Don't waste your time or money chasing the 10mm concept

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

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On 4/5/2020 at 11:23 AM, OPENB said:

Get the 40 barrel. 40 in a 10mm barrel will headspace off the extractor. If the rim slips off the extractor, the round will fall into the chamber, and will have to most likely be pushed out from the muzzle. Just not worth the hassle. 

Thank you, that's the important info i needed to make an informed decision.

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On 4/5/2020 at 12:02 PM, Rnlinebacker said:

Get the 40 barrel, work up a load (4.5gr WST @ 1.140 w/180gr polymer coated bullet), and practice a lot as well as shoot matches when they start. Don't waste your time or money chasing the 10mm concept

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

Thanks for the load advice, does the .40 not work well with 200gr coated around 850fps?  A 180gr needs to be around 950fps to be just above Major, right? Does one feel "softer" or is it about the recoil profile and sights back on target? 

 I've shot a few USPSA lvl1, and 3-gun matches with X5's and 1911's.  I've got a Shadow 2 all tuned up but since I have the Stock III, I figured it would be cool to have a Limited version of the S2.  I shoot at a local range as much as is feasible but finding a range that has bay's and steel without an exclusive pay-through-your-nose plan is really tough. 

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180 vs. 200 has been talked about a good bit here. Ultimately it boils down to your subjective opinion. Most people shoot 180 nowadays.

 

Finding a range that has "bays and steel" will dramatically improve your training sessions, will improve your performance, and will almost certainly raise your Fun Meter scores. Ditto for lots o' Dry Fire.

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180 vs 200 is a noticeable difference in cost, for not much change in recoil impulse. That’s the main reason coated 180gr bullets are a popular choice.

 

I agree that you’ll want to grab a 40 caliber barrel, simply for reliability / accuracy reasons. Sell some 10mm reloading components to fund it if ya have to. They’re going for a premium right now! :D 

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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