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Question about TAC trigger for Q5 SF


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On 3/24/2020 at 6:33 PM, philmadxx said:

That's great to hear!!  I'm still torn -  Overwatch kit - or - Sprinco springs, polishing and set screw mod - or wait for the Apex trigger that never seems to get done?

 

Good to have choices at least and with matches being cancelled left and right, I'll have plenty of time to think it over.

 

Thanks for the write up.

 

Phil 


I’m shortly going to have 3 frames to compare:

 

(All with sprinco springs)

Poly frame, OEM trigger, add setscrew

Poly frame, Apex trigger, add setscrew

This SF from a buddy, featured above.

4” carry PPQ. Stock trigger.

 

As soon as I can make it out to a buddy’s farmland to run some 147s through them all? That’s gonna be a fun range trip.

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21 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

No you don’t. I promise you can drill this by hand - going in dead square actually isn’t critical. Drilling it in the right spot? That is.

 

mark you height and width precisely, heat a nail up, and press it into the plastic in exactly that spot to make a center-punch style mark to center your bit.

 

Just make sure it’s straight in relation to the gun’s bore. Tipped a few degrees up or down would be completely functional and acceptable. The one I did actually isn’t parallel to the sear and will work just fine.

 

Thanks, I'll have to take a look at the instructions and give it a shot.

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On 3/30/2020 at 7:27 PM, dbpfa5 said:

Thanks, I'll have to take a look at the instructions and give it a shot.

Did mine 2 days ago. Drilled with just a normal drill and drill bit. Its plastic so it's really soft. Then tapped and threaded the sets screw in with an wrench no problem. Make sure you use the correct size drill bit for the set screw.(Found with an easy Google if you arnt holding that info around in your head like me) I was successful and this is my first time doing anything remotely like this.

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0403201247.pdfOverwatch Precision trigger upgrade for Walther Q5 SF (Review by Keith White, keithwhite100@gmail.com)

 

I’ve been sitting here at the house for the past 4 weeks with nothing to do so I decided to spend some money on my gun and purchase the Overwatch Precision Trigger for my Walther Q5 SF. The range is closed and I’ve loaded a crap load of target 9mm rounds and upgraded my press with every bell and whimsical doodad you can think of so why not give this trigger a try.  I’ve been waiting for the Apex trigger upgrade and have given up on that and came across this company just the other day. Seemed like a nice trigger but I could not find anyone who was willing to purchase one and do a review, it is not cheap but more on this later.

 

Ordered last week and it came in about 5 or 6 days, which was surprising due to the virus crap going on. Nice simple package and quality looked nice.  It’s an all metal trigger and seemed to be very well made. So, I proceeded to install it in my gun. I also got two trigger springs a green and red one. A slightly below factory and one that lowered pull weight to about 3.5 lbs. I did not order this package but got it anyway and due to the fact, I run a different spring they just go into the spring bin for repurposing. 

 

My Walther has been modified in every way possible and is has a trigger as good and crisp as any 1911 or trigger job around. I run my own springs which produce a 2.5 lb. pull and have modified the shear so creep is almost nothing and 1mm reset. As you can see in the pictures, I modified the Walther trigger to the same specifications as the one sold in Germany and can be adjusted. The only issue with this is the trigger safety did no function, don’t know if the Walther upgrade has trigger safety but the Europeans seem to get away with this but not in the US.

 

The new OW trigger fit perfectly in my gun, perfectly (not any adjustments required at all). I’ve played with a lot of Walther triggers and seem to always have to tweak them a little to eliminate any possible friction, not required with the OW upgrade. The trigger was also nicely polished up and very smooth unlike other purchased trigger upgrades.

 

I did notice that the friction dimple pressed into the trigger bar on the Walther trigger had been ground off of the OW trigger, you can see this in the pictures, it was not an issue. Other than the shape of the OW trigger there seemed to be little to no difference between the two. The OW trigger is assembled with a tiny roll pin so it is possible to remove the safety release and access the tiny spring in the trigger its self.

 

Assembled the gun back and gave it a few pulls, nice. However, I noticed due to the extremely light trigger spring in my gun the spring in the trigger safety was almost to strong and could lock up the pull. I’ve had this issue before on the Walther trigger and with the trigger bar springs shipped with the OW trigger, I don’t think this would be an issue. To fix this issue I dissembled the OW trigger and removed the tiny internal spring, looked for a replacement in my supply but no luck so proceeded to cut about 4 coils of the OW trigger spring and reassembled and placed back in my gun. Yes, it worked great now, no issues at all.

 

Summary:  I really like it; all the claims are true.  I like the flat trigger and with my modified LOC grip in combination with the OW trigger it now fit my smaller hand perfectly. Anybody would be hard pressed to better this design. The only thing I would change is the internal trigger lock spring could be weaker as not to impede the pull with lower trigger bar pull springs installations.

 

Was it worth the 200 bucks? For me, sure but I don’t cry and bitch about a few dollars. Could the price be lower, not sure as I think this unit was pre fit into a jig or gun and adjusted before being shipped to me. That takes time and money, I think that is why the price is higher than most other upgrades. It’s also all metal, I love this and the blue safety is an exact match to the Walther color. Nice job guys.

 

 

 

 

Issued on 4/4/2020

 

 

0403201245a 2.pdf 0403201245b.pdf 0403201245c.pdf 0403201247.pdf 0403201253.pdf

Edited by Keithwhite100
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On 3/29/2020 at 9:07 PM, MemphisMechanic said:

<snip>

 

mark you height and width precisely, heat a nail up, and press it into the plastic in exactly that spot to make a center-punch style mark to center your bit.

 

</snip>

 

What "plastic" are you referring to?  Where exactly do you drill this hole on a Q5 SF??

Edited by Kidfixer
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32 minutes ago, Kidfixer said:

What "plastic" are you referring to?  Where exactly do you drill this hole on a Q5 SF??


I found a conventional center punch to work best, and heating a nail up actually didn’t produce the melted starter hole I expected.

 

The hole is drilled in the sear housing, for a 6-32 by 3/16” setscrew.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.d06f5fa7a5edff739ff388133d372df3.jpeg8102669E-2C85-454D-9388-F049C760DF1E.jpeg.ac5f3912165534e8edd07d88a283c707.jpeg

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Ordered the Overwatch Precision trigger.  Apex took too long, too bad, I have one of their triggers in an M&P.  Signed up for OP newsletter, got 10% off.  Comes thursday.  I'll try to take some pictures (video? - ugh!).  Might be a bit before I get to the range, though.  

Phil 

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Since posting this thread asking about the Overwatch trigger, I have installed a set of Loc thin grips.....I've done the set screw mod to remove the creep from the trigger. I've polished the trigger bar on the high spots and the area where the tension arm on the side of the trigger housing rides on the top of the trigger bar. I installed the Sprinco spring kit and polished the striker safety plunger. I came across a really good deal on a Vortex Venom red dot and installed it. I have probably put about a thousand rounds through my Q5 since posting here and with all the small mods it is Awesome now....I was going to install a set screw in the trigger shoe to remove the travel but to do that it would disable the trigger safety so I opted not to do it, the small amount of travel doesn't really bother as it's so smooth before hitting the wall, I'm used to it now. I did each small mod to it one at a time and I found that just doing one alone doesn;t really make much of a difference but after doing all of what I've done has made a huge difference for me. This Q5 SF is now my most accurate pistol and I enjoy shooting it more than my other ones. I'am still curious if the Overwatch trigger removes most of the travel, if it does then it would be perfect for me.

 

If anyone is thinking about doing the set screw mod to remove the creep, I would strongly recommend  doing it...like Memphis Mechanic said it is easy to do and only takes about ten mins. to do it. I have been building benchrest rimfire rifles for a few years now and I have a couple lathes and a milling machine, I did mine in the milling machine but it can easily be done with a hand drill also. I used the same size 6/32 set screw as MM did....I would suggest using a center drill bit to mark and start the hole, just go deep enough with just the tip of it to mark the hole and then use the proper size drill bit for 6/32 threads.

 

Here's the bit I'm talking about .....

large.jpg

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I have these same modifications on my polymer Q5, but with the Sodemann springs that Lanzer and OldFart discussed in the original thread, plus the 6lb Wolf Glock striker spring. Pull measures at exactly 2.0lbs. One additional thing that really makes it so sweet:

 

Layer small strips of electrical tape (black blends in perfectly) on the back of the trigger guard/frame where the trigger impacts the frame. You can layer it so that there's essentially Zero overtravel, which also makes the reset essentially Zero. It's cheap, adjustable, reversible, and it doesn't affect any safeties.

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Installed the OW over the weekend - really easy to do - does everything it is supposed to, went from 5lbs -8oz to 3lbs -7oz with the lighter (red) spring - exactly what OW specs.  Take up way better, reset way better.  Dry fired about 100 times, no range time...yet.  Essentially it meets every claim OW makes about it.  Planning to do other changes as well but I like to do them incrementally so I know what change had what effect.  Stay tuned for range report - could be a while with the lockdown.  

 

Thanks

 

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4 hours ago, a_whole_lot_of_freedom said:

Anyone got any ideas on how to get rid of the over travel? I saw the tape idea but I have a feeling that will ware out over time...

I know you're looking for Other ideas, but I at least want to assure you that I've had the same layered tape on my Q5 poly for more than two full USPSA seasons, and use the same gun for dry fire and matches. If you compress the tape as you're putting it on by pressing hard on the trigger, and if you make sure the surfaces are clean when you apply the tape, it should really last a very long time. As a comparison, the overtravel screw on my HK USP Tactical is much less consistent.

 

I would leave pictures/videos, but I don't know how since it says the upload size limit is 0.49MB

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5 hours ago, PNWWaltherShooter said:

I know you're looking for Other ideas, but I at least want to assure you that I've had the same layered tape on my Q5 poly for more than two full USPSA seasons, and use the same gun for dry fire and matches. If you compress the tape as you're putting it on by pressing hard on the trigger, and if you make sure the surfaces are clean when you apply the tape, it should really last a very long time. As a comparison, the overtravel screw on my HK USP Tactical is much less consistent.

 

I would leave pictures/videos, but I don't know how since it says the upload size limit is 0.49MB

 

Use your computers Snipping Tool.  Click on New, Capture the pic size you want, click Edit, Copy, paste on the forum.  

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On 4/24/2020 at 1:16 PM, WxGuy said:

 

Use your computers Snipping Tool.  Click on New, Capture the pic size you want, click Edit, Copy, paste on the forum.  

I appreciate the tip.  Unfortunately, all I have right now is an old Macbook Air with an android phone, and I'm not motivated enough at the moment to figure it all out.  Sorry.  However, I was at least able to get one image down to size that shows the layered tape, so here ya go (this tape has been on there for about 2.5 years with regular dry fire).  If I can spend more time later on figuring out how to post any of the videos of the trigger break + reset, I'll post it.  The cool thing about the tape job is that it can be applied to the poly, SF, or any other trigger/frame combo, and makes a Huge difference for almost no money.

 

 

20200424_075018.jpg

Edited by PNWWaltherShooter
Serial number was visible
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I modifies all my guns by placing a formed plastic tab that is forced into the slot behind the trigger bar. I sand it down to the point the gun fires without interference and has almost instance reset. See attached picture. I have fired thousands of rounds with this fix and experienced no issues.

 

overtravel fix HDR.jpg

Edited by Keithwhite100
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43 minutes ago, Keithwhite100 said:

I modifies all my guns by placing a formed plastic tab that is forced into the slot behind the trigger bar. I sand it down to the point the gun fires without interference and has almost instance reset. See attached picture. I have fired thousands of rounds with this fix and experienced no issues.

overtravel fix HDR.pdfUnavailable

I tried doing this same thing initially, but couldn't figure out a good way to make anything stay in place back there behind the trigger bar. I'm extremely interested to see what you came up with, but the PDF you attached seems to be unavailable. Could you please try attaching it again (unless I'm the only one who can't view it)? Thanks!

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19 hours ago, PNWWaltherShooter said:

I tried doing this same thing initially, but couldn't figure out a good way to make anything stay in place back there behind the trigger bar. I'm extremely interested to see what you came up with, but the PDF you attached seems to be unavailable. Could you please try attaching it again (unless I'm the only one who can't view it)? Thanks!

  It's a low density plastic that can be shaped and sanded. Get a piece that a little thicker than the gap between the trigger bar and back wall. Then cut the width slightly wider than the placement space and force it into the slot. I have never had any of mine to fall out. It might take a couple to fit tries to get the width and thickness exactly like you want it.  Good Luck.

overtravel fix HDR.jpg

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  It's a low density plastic that can be shaped and sanded. Get a piece that a little thicker than the gap between the trigger bar and back wall. Then cut the width slightly wider than the placement space and force it into the slot. I have never had any of mine to fall out. It might take a couple to fit tries to get the width and thickness exactly like you want it.  Good Luck.
1347032734_overtravelfixHDR.jpg.41007861aa390d304f7821eae67ea388.jpg
This is exactly what I was thinking. Did you use any special kind or just any soft plastic?

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

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1 hour ago, a_whole_lot_of_freedom said:

This is exactly what I was thinking. Did you use any special kind or just any soft plastic?

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 

I think any sort will work, I had cut some holes in a plastic project box for my loading press and used this material as it was about the right thickness and easy to shape. After I had the proper width and height (cut out using my little project scroll saw) measured the gap between the trigger bar and back stop just as the sheer broke, I then sanded the piece down to that target. Had to make one or two more sanding adjustments rubbing the piece on emery paper to get the exact thickness I was looking for and pushed it in. I have  two guns with the mod and it works just perfect. 

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