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Hornady LNL AP - Powder Jump Fix


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I dont know if this information is worthy of a sticky or not, but i thought i would share this with everyone here anyway. I had posted this information many years ago online to share with others, and thought it was worth a mention because i brought it up in another thread here recently and i`ve had people show intrest in what i said. Its been a big hit on a few other forums i`ve been a member of years ago.

 

I`ve had a few people ask me to post on other forums what i did to stop the jumpy shell plates on the LNL AP press, to stop the powder from jumping out of the pistol cases after the case is charged. I`m sure most of us have seen all the so-called fixes all over youtube many times, but nobody ever really fixes their main problem. You never see any of those so-called fixes re-posted because what they did usually dosent fix the powder jump issues 100% because changing calibers changes every thing all over again. The most comical one i`ve seen is where this guy took a grinder to his sub plate. Its NOT necessary to do that, actually kind of stupid really. But i guess hornady dont mind selling new sub plates...lol.

 

Folks, every time you change calibers, your changing the shell plate, different calibers, different cases, and as soon as you go to a different caliber, the harmonics change with it, and that retaining spring dosent always work to its best ability, for you. My fix has worked for years, even way back 30+yrs ago when i bought my first Hornady Pro-Jector press brand new. The shell plate "case retaining spring" is the main culprit.

 

I eliminated the steel case retaining spring and exchanged it for a rubber oring. The rubber oring size that works is 2.5mm X 69mm. on the LNL AP ez-eject presses The oring dampens the shell plate as it indexes, and the oring actually keeps the case within the shell plate much firmer, and eliminates harmonics and shake as its indexing. You can still remove the cases with ease during the process with the oring installed just same as you would if it were the original steel case retaining spring.

 

I`ll post a picture in here of one of my LNL`s with the oring installed on the press. When you put the oring on the shell plate, i use a very lite film of lanolin. (make sure you seat the oring in the sub plate groove, walk it in by turning the shell plate by hand) Do NOT use any type of penetrating oil to lube it. Penetrating oil can weep everywhere, even down into the primer system. So stay away from petroleum based lubricants. Just a bit of history, i`ve used orings on my hornady`s way back when i got my first hornady pro-jector press back in the 80`s because you couldnt get the retaining springs shortly after that press came out. So i started using orings back then and never looked back. And if you look at what hornady is charging you for those case retaining springs, thats just nuts! Orings are far cheaper!

 

Now, if you have an older Hornady Pro-Jector press, you`ll need a 3.0mm X 69mm oring. The older hornadys used a bigger diameter spring. The sub plate is milled differently to allow the larger diameter shell plate retaining spring. Last time i contacted hornady, this older spring was no longer available, and for quite some time they havent had it.

 

 

Now keep in mind, i dont load rifle cases on progressive presses. I only load pistol cases on progressive presses. Pistol cases after being charged always want to toss the powder with each indexing of the press. So if anyone would like to be the test rabbit for seeing if the oring fixes, or at least settles down the rifle case and powder jump during indexing, by all means, let everybody know your results in here. I`ve never tried rifles cases, and i dont intend to. SO let everybody know how yours work out.

 

And keep in mind, my press is not your press, nore is your press my press, everybody`s equipment and technics are different. So dont come back in here and go off on a rant if this dosent work, for you. What i can tell you is, i`ve seen the "oring fix" put alot of happy smiles on ALOTTA people faces. YMMV!

 

 

 

 

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12 minutes ago, hiker88 said:

Where do I buy these "magical" O-rings? 🤓

 

Maybe, I can do away with vacuuming my press for spilled powder every 200 rounds. 😉

I have a friend of mine that owns a machine shop, he gets them thru McMasterCarr for me.

I suppose you could get them from amazon pretty easy. Just type the size i listed in amazon.

 

Yeah the "magical Orings" fixes the powder bounce nonsense, it has 100% worked for me anyways, and many others that i told to try it over the years.

I`ve yet to figure out why others haven`t thought it long before now. That`s what got me thinkin that i should share it and in hopes that it helps others.

 

 

EDIT:

I went to McMasterCarr and looked them up. Pretty sure this is the one my friend orders for me when i need them. This is a pack of 10 orings for $6.95

https://www.mcmaster.com/9262K939

 

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Great tip and I'm sure it works well.

 

The easiest free fix that works it to hammer and punch the 2 detent balls up higher on every shell plate you own. It takes 2 seconds, just a couple of light taps of the hammer will move them. Make them just above flush and if you like add a small amount of slide glide or high tac axle grease (same thing) to the shiny mark where the balls ride on the press plate. I'm actually stumped as to why this is not in the instructions (well it might be but I never read them). 

Edited by louu
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36 minutes ago, Tunachaser said:

"I'm actually stumped as to why this is not in the instructions (well it might be but I never read them)."

 

It is.

Never read the manual 😜 

 

I went straight to Youtube. LOL!

 

 

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6 hours ago, Tunachaser said:

"I'm actually stumped as to why this is not in the instructions (well it might be but I never read them)."

 

It is.

Sweet, I just kinda figured it was not because I read all the time on forums that guys don't do it or know about it. 

Edited by louu
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On 3/10/2020 at 2:04 PM, 124gr9mm said:

Thanks for sharing.

 

If I try it out I'll respond with results.

Your welcome! Please do come back and let me know how it worked out for you. I have had ZERO issues ever since eliminating the metal retaining spring.

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On 3/10/2020 at 3:37 PM, anonymouscuban said:

Do you run a case feeder? How does the o-ring sit inside the channel compared to the spring? Does it stick out more? 

The rubber oring sits perfect in the sub plate groove. The cases do not hit the oring at all, as long as you`ve lubed the oring and its in the sub plate groove properly. The nice thing about running the oring, is that it does NOT wear on the sub plate like the metal spring does. I`ve seen the metal spring actually wear the sub plates pretty hard. Now i`m sure that the metal spring wont wear out the sub plate, but why add more friction and wear to your equipment.

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On 3/10/2020 at 7:16 PM, louu said:

Great tip and I'm sure it works well.

 

The easiest free fix that works it to hammer and punch the 2 detent balls up higher on every shell plate you own. It takes 2 seconds, just a couple of light taps of the hammer will move them. Make them just above flush and if you like add a small amount of slide glide or high tac axle grease (same thing) to the shiny mark where the balls ride on the press plate. I'm actually stumped as to why this is not in the instructions (well it might be but I never read them). 

That isnt a 100% fix. Been there done that with many of these LNL AP presses. The oring makes the shell plate run MUCH smoother.

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For those that have tried this oring mod, please do a follow up in this thread in how it works for you. I`d really like to think that this is really helping people, or if its not.

Edited by vince
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2 hours ago, Tunachaser said:

But the shipping is more.

Yeah, that can be a problem sometimes... shipping and sales tax added in there... everybody`s gotta get their grubby little mitts in there too i guess.

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