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MAJOR SQUIB STUCK IN A REVOLVER. HELP!!


TheGoatMumbler

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When chronoing  some loads in my 4" S&W 686 I had a squib.  No big deal I thought so I grab a wooden 5/16" dowel and give it a few wacks. Since it was only about 1/4" from the forcing cone I figured it'd be easy. It moved about another 1/8" and stopped and that was about the time the dowel broke in the barrel and it ain't moving! I can't get the wood out and I can't move the squib. I tried pushing both through with an aluminum rod but I only succeeded in wedging the wood in tighter. I ordered a brass squib rod this morning for future use but I'm in trouble on this one. Any advice?

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The secret is a big hammer and heavy strikes.  Lots of light taps will get it wedged in there tighter.  You will want some lube as well...I'd get some oil in there on the forcing cone side.    I don't have much for you on the dowel though.

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I'd try freezing the barrel for several hours. Metal constricts as it cools. Maybe it will constrict the barrel enough to also constrict the bullet, and when it warms back up, maybe the barrel will expand and the bullet (being lead), will not expand back with the barrel. As for the wood, if there is no plastic on the barrel, I'd try cooking it to about 250 degrees for an hour. Maybe that will take the humidity out of the wood and let it shrink some. Disclaimer, I've never done either of these, these statements are just based on the way metal and wood react to heat and cold.

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The dowel is your real problem. Once it's out, the bullet is easy.

 

Don't do anything rash, or you'll be buying a barrel. Drill bits are likely to wander and touch the rifling.

 

I don't have any good ideas off the top of my head. I've replaced customers rifle barrels because of a stuck squib rod. Think it thru before you stick anything else in there.

 

 

 

 

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Yeah. I've tried all that moving up the hammer ladder, penetrating oil on the FC side, etc. It bent my aluminum rod as well. That 147g coated RN is in there pretty good and with a revolver it's hard to get it firmly butted up against something to give it a massive wack. The gunsmith has a jig for this and he said he's seen this a few times so I shouldn't feel like a moron. But if a wooden dowel is used use a hardwood not the soft crap from Lowe's. Brass is best and non marring. He may have to burn the wood out from the muzzle end and then it'll be no prob. I also suggested I was going to use the propane torch at the forcing cone and melt it out. He said that works as well but it's not a bad idea to lap the barrel afterwards.

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In the flintlock muzzleloader world, if a ball gets stuck in the barrel, there's a screw tip that fits on the ram rod that you use to screw into the lead projectile to pull it out.

I would try that method to remove the dowel and then ram the projo out with a brass rod.

I would never use a drill in a barrel unless you have another to replace it.

SJC

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  • 3 weeks later...

I know this is an old post..but I always kept a piece of aluminum rod in my shooting bag.  It was actually an old shotgun cleaning rod that was used a couple of times.  The rod  diameter was close to bore diameter so any potential bore damage was eliminated. 

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I had a squib in my 627. We beat on it at the range, with a wood dowel, aluminum rod, iron bolt, it wouldn't move.

 

I gave it to my gunsmith, he said it popped right out after he oiled the bore, and put it in a vise.

 

your millage may vary

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