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SVI - Burrrp...

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A few days back at the range I was working on "doubles" at various distances and at one occasion my SVI went "burrrp." My thoughts, in somewhat chronological order were: "Cool!!," "Man, I'm getting better at this speed thing," "Here comes 25 HF on 'Can You Count Classifier'," "Hey, is there a three-round burst switch I didn't know about," "What has just happened??"

 

I've had the gun since early 2019 and have shot it at matches twice a month, together with the regular practice in between. Never a problem. So, I'm thinking it was either a possible bump-fire while I was working on the trigger at speed and with slightly looser grip than I would normally use, or it was some sort of a mechanical issue that just happened at that time. 

 

I've seen these types of issues happen from time to time to other people, so I would like to get some more info from those who either had it happen to them, or know enough about such problems. What would be a mechanical problem to cause this? Is it possible it was bump-fire? What to look for? (I am not versed enough in gunsmithing where I would play with tinkering or tuning a 1911/2011.) 

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Do the standard 1911/2011 hammer follow tests. If those pass then its likely a bump fire.

 

Light triggers + heavy gun + loose grip = High Bump Fire potential. 

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Add more trigger overtravel, same happened to me...

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Could be your hammer and sear are wearing out.  It happens.  Could be time for a new trigger job.

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It's probably the sear spring.  When they're set that light, a little fatigue is all it takes and you start having multiples.

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Why do 1911/2011 guns stop at 2 or 3 rounds when this happens?  Why don't they go until the mag is empty?

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18 minutes ago, BadShot said:

Why do 1911/2011 guns stop at 2 or 3 rounds when this happens?  Why don't they go until the mag is empty?

 

Sometimes they do.  Typically when a spring wears, it's right on the borderline of not having enough tension.  So you get a couple round burst before the hammer resets.  Full auto dump usually happens when you do a trigger job and either mess up the hammer/sear angles, or set the spring tension way too light.  That's why you're supposed to test with just a couple rounds.  That way, if it lets go, you only get a two round burst.  So you make adjustments then retest.  If it runs safely with two rounds, then you can try with more until you're sure it's safe.  At least that's how you're supposed to do it.

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I had a sear spring that caused two round bursts. All my buddies wanted me to show them how I did that but ROs did not appreciate it. 

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Bump fire, happens with my IMM, trigger weight is 1.4lbs


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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4 hours ago, BadShot said:

Why do 1911/2011 guns stop at 2 or 3 rounds when this happens?  Why don't they go until the mag is empty?

 

Takes a few milliseconds for your butthole to clench up and then release the trigger. They don't usually run away once you let off the trigger

 

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Try hammer follow tests if it fails take it to a gun smith

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8 hours ago, IVC said:

 "Hey, is there a three-round burst switch I didn't know about," "What has just happened??"

 

 

this is the switch.

It will continue until someone changes the design and depends on that part.

from this reason i don't use it.😀

תוצאת תמונה עבור ‪1911 leaf spring‬‏

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19 hours ago, CHA-LEE said:

Do the standard 1911/2011 hammer follow tests. If those pass then its likely a bump fire.

 

Light triggers + heavy gun + loose grip = High Bump Fire potential. 

Good idea - I remember seeing those tests (hadn't had a need to do them in the past) so I looked them up. They all passed easily (except the grip safety ones, obviously). 

 

I'm leaning towards bump fire too...

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My SVI has done the same thing. I added some tension to the leaf spring, and it was good to go for a while but SV uses titanium leaf springs for some weird reason. If may take a few attempts. 
 

I also wine through the wondering of “did I bump fire this thing?” For a while. It will get worse. SV quoted me a 5 week turnaround, I’m not thrilled about it. Just buy a steel leaf spring if you can’t get it to stay reliable. 

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I’ve had this happen. It’s a little spooky but a really simple fix.

Buy a decent trigger gauge. Test it. Adjust your seat spring (very easy) until you get a level you like and can’t reproduce hammer follow. Then, use the gauge every once in a while to see if the spring tension has changed. If changed, work on the spring again.

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Also back out your overtravel stop if you run them tight.

 

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This is tough to admit, but I hope it help others...

 

Today I was annoyed that the first round off of magazine wouldn't go into battery. Every single time, the initial round would be a FTF. I tried locking back the slide, ensuring I'm not easing it down, different magazines and every time the round would get stuck halfway into the chamber. I would pull the magazine out, pull the slide back, let the round fall into the chamber, let the slide go, insert magazine and start shooting with no further problems. Then, I had another quick burst. Frustrating.

 

Since I recently started roll-sizing and I always use Hundo to gauge rounds (and flip them into trays), I was pretty sure it wasn't the out of spec ammo. I also remember this happening at the last match and going on for about a week or two, so I was getting a bit extra frustrated. Then, suddenly, I noticed that the firing pin was protruding out and it was the firing pin that would block the rim of the round from sliding up and chambering properly. It suddenly dawned on me that it all adds up - two weeks since this thread, a firing pin sticking out, quick burst, problems chambering initial round, bingo! It looks like I had an equivalent of an open bolt full auto gun that didn't fire on the initial chambering simply by thousands of an inch, and would fire when the hammer fell because it was just sufficient nudge to ignite the primer. 

 

I immediately took out the firing pin and, sure enough, there were some metal shavings in there that were interfering with the firing pin. No idea how it got in there - the firing pin channel is not only narrow, but it's occupied by the firing pin. I quickly cleaned it up and all my problems went away. I believe this will also stop the bursts, but we'll see. 

 

Don't know how I didn't notice it or figure it out sooner, so flame away...

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I do not own an SVI, but if, and only if I do....anything wrong with it, I send it back to SVI.  If you are knowledgeable on 1911 platform..well lucky you.  Those seems to be very unique pistols so why would I? 

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