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TK custom


FENWICK7
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plan on sending my new 929 to tk custom for a major make over. 

Spur speed hammer and polished speed trigger , firing pin kit,

chamfer and hone cylinders, rebound slide, 8lbs +/- trigger job.

curios about  Adjustable Main Spring Tension System ?

will call them  2day about shipping arrangements.any other recomendations

or thoughts are appreciated.

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just spoke with TK (Eli).Spur hammer D/A no longer available. will be going with

skeletonized speed hammer in S/A only. he can still do the 7.5 trigger pull. he 

definitely recomended deleting lock (plug) and new rebound slide. they are  6-7

weeks out on work orders now.(bummer)

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1 hour ago, FENWICK7 said:

just spoke with TK (Eli).Spur hammer D/A no longer available. will be going with

skeletonized speed hammer in S/A only. he can still do the 7.5 trigger pull. he 

definitely recomended deleting lock (plug) and new rebound slide. they are  6-7

weeks out on work orders now.(bummer)

 

 

To put things in perspective, 6-7 weeks really isnt that bad, I once waited over 16 months to get a gun back for barrel work.

 

Also, Eli is an absolute pro , your revolver is in good hands - have no worries! 

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Or, just buy the APEX Tactical hammer and springs kit ($160), and a firing pin ($16); and then put them in yourself.  Its not too difficult, you don't have to wait for your gun, and it's satisfying to do your own work!  I dropped an APEX hammer into my 929, took out the rebound slide and replaced the spring (with the heavier one in the kit), then slightly polished the rebound slide before I replaced it, and it was a smooth 5# trigger.  You could always make the trigger heavier for non-federal primers by tightening the mainspring if needed.  

https://store.apextactical.com/WebDirect/Products/Category?categoryId=24

 

Edited by S&W627shooter
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I give props to anyone who does their own smithing.  I don't have the patience or finesse and have learned to leave it to those who know what they are doing!

 

As for the Apex and TK parts my 'smith said...

Quote

Apex and TK are both EDM-ed and then machine finished. Kinda like there were made on the EXACT same machine in the EXACT same shop

 

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It was something that PPC shooters did in the '80's and possibly the '70's.  Power Custom and Murray Charlton did it,  along with PPC gunsmiths.

 

You were able to back off the strain screw to make the trigger pull lighter.

 

Bm4fuoz.jpg

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It was something that PPC shooters did in the '80's and possibly the '70's.  Power Custom and Murray Charlton did it,  along with PPC gunsmiths.
 
You were able to back off the strain screw to make the trigger pull lighter.
 
Bm4fuoz.jpg
I've debated doing this, but the layers and layers of blue loctite have held the strain screw in place for years now.

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I thought there was a big debate about how this is the WRONG way to go about lightening the trigger?
 
or not....?
 
 
I wouldn't carry a gun without the strain screw screwed firmly in, but it does make it easier to add a little tension back on of you need it in your match gun.

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1 hour ago, MikeyScuba said:

I thought there was a big debate about how this is the WRONG way to go about lightening the trigger?

 

or not....?

 

 

Not to derail this thread but I’d argue that: 

 

wrong= unscrewing the strain screw and hoping it stays where you want it.

 

not wrong= Making a new strain screw that gives the desired tension but still firmly and fully seated.

 

This “adjustable” system is just a glorified set screw. 

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5 hours ago, MikeyScuba said:

I thought there was a big debate about how this is the WRONG way to go about lightening the trigger?

 

or not....?

 

 

 

 

Personal preference. 

 

I'm of the opinion that a backed out set screw that is properly loc-tited is perfectly fine for what we do. 

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I've had fully seated strain screws back out.  The PPC method is a set screw, not a bad idea with heavy use even with a fully seated strain screw, kind of a machinists loc-tite.  I just just use a little blue 242 loc-tite even when fully seated.

You can adjust action weight by backing off the strain screw, or shortening, but only for a little of the adjustment.  I liken it to fine tuning.  But if you back the strain screw out too far the main spring can knuckle and the action will lock up.  

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But if you back the strain screw out too far the main spring can knuckle and the action will lock up.  


True. You need to recontour the spring so that it doesn't gain so much length when it has less tension on it. Look at photos of the modified mainspring Jerry sells.

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On 1/15/2020 at 4:29 PM, pskys2 said:

I've had fully seated strain screws back out.  The PPC method is a set screw, not a bad idea with heavy use even with a fully seated strain screw, kind of a machinists loc-tite.

I've seen it happen to a buddy's gun at a match. Immediately after he had me modify his gun for the Power Custom style set screw.

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On 1/13/2020 at 11:06 AM, alecmc said:

 

 

To put things in perspective, 6-7 weeks really isnt that bad, I once waited over 16 months to get a gun back for barrel work.

 

Also, Eli is an absolute pro , your revolver is in good hands - have no worries! 

just spoke to TKC. my revo is next in line. hope to have it bak in a week or so.

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On 1/14/2020 at 8:18 PM, alecmc said:

 

 

Personal preference. 

 

I'm of the opinion that a backed out set screw that is properly loc-tited is perfectly fine for what we do. 

 

Yep, it will be perfectly fine....right up until it's not!  

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