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Cajun gunworks P10F striker


BryceA
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I had my first firing ping breakage yesterday at a match so I'm looking at ways forward. I could try to get it done under warranty, but it looks like Cajun Gun Works makes some tool steel strikers for the P10 series, sku's 10300 which is a standard striker and 10320 which is a 'competition' striker, allegedly tuned for competition pull weights. How durable are these and would it be worth it just to get the competition oriented version since this is effectively a comp-only gun? After my first broken striker I'm not all that thrilled with the OEM version but I'm wondering if I just have too high of expectations and the tool steel strikers from CGW have broken for folks as well.

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15 hours ago, BryceA said:

I had my first firing ping breakage yesterday at a match so I'm looking at ways forward. I could try to get it done under warranty, but it looks like Cajun Gun Works makes some tool steel strikers for the P10 series, sku's 10300 which is a standard striker and 10320 which is a 'competition' striker, allegedly tuned for competition pull weights. How durable are these and would it be worth it just to get the competition oriented version since this is effectively a comp-only gun? After my first broken striker I'm not all that thrilled with the OEM version but I'm wondering if I just have too high of expectations and the tool steel strikers from CGW have broken for folks as well.

I haven't broker my oem striker yet, but picked up a CGW striker for piece of mind.  I don't think anyone has broker a tool-steel striker yet.
The 10320 reduced the trigger pull in my P10F by 6oz compared to the 10300 which was pretty much the same as OEM.  Unfortunately, after about 1,500 rounds and a lot of dry-fire I started getting doubling with the 10320.  It's wasn't going full-auto since it wouldn't do it when I pinned the trigger to the rear, but it would basically bump-fire when trying to shoot fast splits.  I think it was more to do with the rear insert starting to loosen in the frame than the striker.  However, I think CGW stopped selling the 10320 a few weeks ago when some P-10F owners reported the same thing.  I think P10s have a lot more variation between guns/parts tolerances than their hammer fired guns.

I posted a lot more info about the strikers here: https://czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=106434.0

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Interesting to know regarding the 10320 striker. Perhaps I'm just not good enough to know better, but I'm fine with break weight of the stock trigger so if there is reason to doubt I'll stick with the OEM shaped strikers.

 

Speaking of OEM, I called CZ warranty services this morning and got a replacement striker on the way. It was a really easy process: I called, they verified my address info (I was already on file for ordering a mounting plate), asked for my serial number, and a new striker is on the way. I couldn't be happier about how easy it was. That said, I may still order a 10300 striker for my EDC P10C (now I'm paranoid since this is the first firing pin I've broken in my life) and keep it's OEM striker as a spare.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I got a CGW 10300 striker in the mail yesterday and plopped it into a P-10 all excited and noticed that the striker doesn't reach as far forward as the OEM version and I'm a bit concerned it's going to result in light strikes. It looks like the striker is restricted from moving forward the full distance to where it sits flush with the sheath (see pic which shows the furthest forward it will travel). It appears the radius of curvature where the tip begins to extend is less aggressive on the CGW striker, taking more distance to narrow than the OEM version, and perhaps this is what is restricting how far forward it will go. I've tried this in two different P-10's just to see if it was perhaps buildup in the striker channel, but they both give the same result.

 

I haven't tried it out yet and can't make it to the range for a few weeks but perhaps it works flawlessly and I have no reason for concern. Has anybody else noticed this?

CGWStriker.png

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