5% failure on reloads

[DFABOVE]

I have been reloading a very long time and have a very anal way of processing my brass before reloading.I always use range brass because of the amount that I have.I first decap, resize and decrimp military crimp if necessary.The next step is wet tumbling W/SS pins and simple green.The brass is now sun dried until it is hot to the touch,followed by being hand dried by a HAIR dryer.The brass now has immaculate primer pockets and looks like new and is bone dry.I then load in the normal way on a Hornady L-N-L progressive press using CCI,Federal,S&B,Remington and Winchester primers set to being flush with cartridge case.The only failure to fires are the occasional defective primer which happens at the same rate as new factory ammo,i e 1 in 500 regardless of caliber being loaded.WE are talking about a large volume of rounds in ;9mm,38spl,40s&w,.357mag,45acp,.556,6.8spc,.243,300blk,308 and 30-06. 

Edited December 17, 2019 by DFABOVE
forgot caliber

[George16]

1 hour ago, DFABOVE said:

I have been reloading a very long time and have a very anal way of processing my brass before reloading.I always use range brass because of the amount that I have.I first decap, resize and decrimp military crimp if necessary.The next step is wet tumbling W/SS pins and simple green.The brass is now sun dried until it is hot to the touch,followed by being hand dried by a HAIR dryer.The brass now has immaculate primer pockets and looks like new and is bone dry.I then load in the normal way on a Hornady L-N-L progressive press using CCI,Federal,S&B,Remington and Winchester primers set to being flush with cartridge case.The only failure to fires are the occasional defective primer which happens at the same rate as new factory ammo,i e 1 in 500 regardless of caliber being loaded.WE are talking about a large volume of rounds in ;9mm,38spl,40s&w,.357mag,45acp,.556,6.8spc,.243,300blk,308 and 30-06. 

The hot Maui sun is not enough to totally dry out the water from your brass?  That’s too much work for me to be doing.

[Ming the Merciless]

3 hours ago, DFABOVE said:

I have been reloading a very long time and have a very anal way of processing my brass before reloading.I always use range brass because of the amount that I have.I first decap, resize and decrimp military crimp if necessary.The next step is wet tumbling W/SS pins and simple green.The brass is now sun dried until it is hot to the touch,followed by being hand dried by a HAIR dryer.The brass now has immaculate primer pockets and looks like new and is bone dry.I then load in the normal way on a Hornady L-N-L progressive press using CCI,Federal,S&B,Remington and Winchester primers set to being flush with cartridge case.The only failure to fires are the occasional defective primer which happens at the same rate as new factory ammo,i e 1 in 500 regardless of caliber being loaded.WE are talking about a large volume of rounds in ;9mm,38spl,40s&w,.357mag,45acp,.556,6.8spc,.243,300blk,308 and 30-06. 

 

If you're getting 1 primer failure in 500 rounds loaded, that is absolutely NOT the same rate as new factory ammo.  That failure rate is more like 1 in 300,000 rounds.  Based on SAAMI testing US made primers are statistically 99.9997% reliable at the worst.

[AHI]

6 hours ago, Ming the Merciless said:

 

If you're getting 1 primer failure in 500 rounds loaded, that is absolutely NOT the same rate as new factory ammo.  That failure rate is more like 1 in 300,000 rounds.  Based on SAAMI testing US made primers are statistically 99.9997% reliable at the worst.

A BIG + 1 ON THIS.        have loaded well over  this with one failure and not sure of that one.

[travail]

Might be worth depriming a few hundred rounds of brass then letting it dry completely before loading up. Will at least rule out the issue of water trapped from the old primers causing issues.

[m700]

2 hours ago, travail said:

Might be worth depriming a few hundred rounds of brass then letting it dry completely before loading up. Will at least rule out the issue of water trapped from the old primers causing issues.

Absolutely not, Just put them in the practice box. 5% failure is unacceptable for match day. But will do just fine for practicing. No fire is fine, no powder you have to be careful with.

[m700]

13 hours ago, DFABOVE said:

I have been reloading a very long time and have a very anal way of processing my brass before reloading.I always use range brass because of the amount that I have.I first decap, resize and decrimp military crimp if necessary.The next step is wet tumbling W/SS pins and simple green.The brass is now sun dried until it is hot to the touch,followed by being hand dried by a HAIR dryer.The brass now has immaculate primer pockets and looks like new and is bone dry.I then load in the normal way on a Hornady L-N-L progressive press using CCI,Federal,S&B,Remington and Winchester primers set to being flush with cartridge case.The only failure to fires are the occasional defective primer which happens at the same rate as new factory ammo,i e 1 in 500 regardless of caliber being loaded.WE are talking about a large volume of rounds in ;9mm,38spl,40s&w,.357mag,45acp,.556,6.8spc,.243,300blk,308 and 30-06. 

if you take your brass and rinse and drain then pour it in an old dry towel and do the bowling ball clean. you will get alot of the water out to start that way it can spend less time outside.

[HesedTech]

On 11/18/2019 at 7:53 PM, Dmatzinger said:

Any suggestions are GREATLY appreciated.

 

OK I reread the thread and your question.

 

Here's what I would try:

 

1. Dry tumble your brass.

 

Unless you have a good way to dry the brass (a food drier works) and if you leave the primers in some of the primer pockets will corrode and become contaminated. For my bulk 9 MM I decapp, size and wet tumble using Brass Juice and no pins. Then put them in a food drier for at least two hours. Result is shiny brass clean pockets with no corrosion. For 40 SW and 45 ACP I dry tumble them clean and then process and load in one pass through my press (1050)

 

2. Because Dillon 650s don't have a built in way to adjust primer depth do a search of BEF (this forum) and see how others have shimmed the primer punch.

 

That's really about it. As long as your loads "plunk test" and you dropped the right amount of powder they should all go bang. 

 

The hardest part about  reloading is the large variety of bullets and powders available. Each combination works a bit different in each gun. The fun is customizing your ammo for your gun.

[Dmatzinger]

Problem solved

adding the brass dryer solved the problem

in the 1k rounds post they air dryer,

100% success rate

 

 

[markmeone]

I have swaged all my 9mm 38 super and 357 cases and have had no  more misfires because of light primer strikes. I did use the Dillon 600 swager and found it be of great value. I have cleaned my brass with the tumbler with just water and burnishing powder which cleans them pretty well (good enough for me) but not as good as using the steel pins. After letting them dry either in the oven or left outside in the sun I just load them up and have no problems. The swagging allows the primer to sit correctly just a couple of thou down below flush. 

You can get the swaging tool to that goes on the xl 650 and go through all your cases quickly and easily, but I believe you will lose your warranty with Dillon.   

[DFABOVE]

The 1 in 500 FTF primer number was a wild ass guess based on an old farts memory! In my reckless youth I had a chance to fire sometimes  thousands of rounds of 7.62mm daily and found that because of the random nature of FTF's you might see 3 or 4 FTF's in 200 rounds or none in several thousand. Also when you spread the FTF numbers over a bunch of different guns and calibers,who knows what you will get?

Edited December 26, 2019 by DFABOVE