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Stage 3

Silicone Carbide Grit Size

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Looking for suggestions for grit size to use in a DYI pistol grip project?

 

What is a good source for purchasing Silicone Carbide grit?

Edited by Stage 3

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Most of the paper used for grips is about 40 grit.  I like it because its aggressive.   You can buy the pre-cut paper for a lot of different pistols.  Check the usual online stores that cater to competition shooters.  Dawson Precision, Shooters Connection, Speed Shooters, PF Shooting.

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What works for me was to go to a skate board shop and get a feel for the various board tapes they had. I got one that is to my liking and using paper templates for the parts of the frame that I want to be taped, I have what works for me....and it's removable with some effort.  A heat gun works well to get the tape worked into corners and curves.

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I’ve always just purchased small sheets of talon grip tape. No clue of the grit. It’s pretty fine but bites hard

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I used 60/90 grit on my 2011.   I had done another gun previously with 36 grit and thought it was too aggressive.  I bought the silicone carbide and 30 minute epoxy off of Amazon

117654B7-DA68-4285-8858-F221867DB58D.jpeg

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I've done 36 on 5 guns now and its perfect. the first range session is rough but its perfect after that. 

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I'm looking at the same project. Will plan on using 36, figured could lightly hit with a file if too rough.

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1 minute ago, Superpipe9 said:

Do you guys like to use the 2 part epoxy or the JB weld putty stuff? Thanks

Two part works for me.

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I use 60 grit and finish it with 2k car lacquer for improved longevity and smoother feeling generally.

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8 hours ago, Superpipe9 said:

Do you guys like to use the 2 part epoxy or the JB weld putty stuff? Thanks


Putty would add too much thickness.

 

Original slow-cure JB weld, the stuff that is dark gray in color when mixed... and gives you a whole lot of working time.

 

Don’t use a 5 or 30 minute epoxy.

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On 12/27/2019 at 5:34 AM, MemphisMechanic said:


Putty would add too much thickness.

 

Original slow-cure JB weld, the stuff that is dark gray in color when mixed... and gives you a whole lot of working time.

 

Don’t use a 5 or 30 minute epoxy.


Here is another one I did and used JB weld this time around. Much easier to work with! 

588B6259-3257-432E-81BD-2B3FB6AFC67E.jpeg

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Since I first posted on this thread I've switched to JB Weld because the two part epoxy that I used on my plastic frame kept releasing. That was even after de-greasing. Go JB Weld!!

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On 12/27/2019 at 7:34 AM, MemphisMechanic said:


Putty would add too much thickness.

 

Original slow-cure JB weld, the stuff that is dark gray in color when mixed... and gives you a whole lot of working time.

 

Don’t use a 5 or 30 minute epoxy.

 

This ^

 

This is a 60/90 grit blend from Amazon over JB Weld 2-part steel epoxy.  It's actually mild enough for a carry gun.  I will likely sand it back down to the plastic, reapply the epoxy, and sprinkle 36 or some other really aggro grit.

 

Pro tip, a tiny bit of acetone mixed into JB Weld makes it very easy to apply.

 

1952055610_P-10carbide1.jpg.98b8fa639b37da36cdb512e629ffed99.jpg

Edited by SGT_Schultz

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36/70 coarse from amazon. Jb Weld as my adhesive, I was even able to build up a palm swell on my lim major gun. Works great in wet weather, after it cured I had to knock off some rough edges but no big deal. If you do the palm swell watch for runs as it dries, I had to reform the swell as it was curing.

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On 12/27/2019 at 7:34 AM, MemphisMechanic said:


Putty would add too much thickness.

 

Original slow-cure JB weld, the stuff that is dark gray in color when mixed... and gives you a whole lot of working time.

 

Don’t use a 5 or 30 minute epoxy.

I saw JB weld at lowes today. Am I wanting the 15 minute stuff? 

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