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jebeckjr

Tanfo brass ejecting almost straight forward - how to fix?

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My Tanfo was experiencing some FTE issues. As I purchased it used, I gave it a good cleaning and replaced the extractor and spring. Good news is no more FTE issues (about 2k rounds since changing). Bad news is that brass is now ejecting almost straight forward of the line. Not a horrible issue, but makes collecting brass a pain.

 

How would I go about fixing this? Of course, I no longer have the old extractor, so I can’t compare them (that would be too easy). Any other ideas? Everything else is the same (ammo, power factor, etc).

 

I tried googling, but nothing directly about how to fix it. All recommendations are appreciated!

 

 

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You might want to generate some attention by adding info like; caliber, ammo major or minor, recoil spring, etc.  I have the same issue on my GT which is more of a problem with a scope mount.  You can probably work through it with ejector profile angle.  I have not cured it yet on my 9mm; tried different length ejectors, ejector profiles, different extractor springs, and recoil springs.

Edited by Dan4147

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You might want to generate some attention by adding info like; caliber, ammo major or minor, recoil spring, etc.  I have the same issue on my GT which is more of a problem with a scope mount.  You can probably work through it with ejector profile angle.  I have not cured it yet on my 9mm; tried different length ejectors, ejector profiles, different extractor springs, and recoil springs.

Dan, apologies for not replying sooner - my days are getting away from me. It’s a 9mm Stock II, with the standard recoil spring. I’m shooting minor PF ammo - 135 PF. Tried with my hand loads and also Federal 150 gr. Syntech ammo.

I guess what really has me stumped is should I have to “tune” a stock pistol to eject properly?


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Both of my Stock 2's would eject about three feet in front of me with several different types of ammo. I thought it was strange but never had any real issues with the ejection. 

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20 hours ago, jebeckjr said:

I guess what really has me stumped is should I have to “tune” a stock pistol to eject properly?

 

If the gun gets the empty case the f*** out of the chamber and clear of the gun well enough for the next round to reliably chamber, then it is "eject[ing] properly."  

 

If you have a preference on which direction and how far the case goes, then, yes, you may have to tune any particular gun to give you that.  Just decide if your preference makes it worth fooling with.  There's no wrong answer to that question, so there's no reason to be "stumped" by it.

Edited by ATLDave

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If the gun gets the empty case the f*** out of the chamber and clear of the gun well enough for the next round to reliably chamber, then it is "eject[ing] properly."  
 
If you have a preference on which direction and how far the case goes, then, yes, you may have to tune any particular gun to give you that.  Just decide if your preference makes it worth fooling with.  There's no wrong answer to that question, so there's no reason to be "stumped" by it.


Well, when you put it that way...


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My stock 2 and Limited Custom both eject brass forward regularly. My thought on it was if it ain’t broke don’t fix it. Picking up brass may be a little more of a PITA but oh well if the gun runs.

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On 10/9/2019 at 5:41 PM, jebeckjr said:

I guess what really has me stumped is should I have to “tune” a stock pistol to eject properly?


You must be new to Italians.

 

Guns or cars, their products have an amazing amount of ‘personality’ to them. Keeps life exciting. 😁

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On 10/11/2019 at 1:42 PM, MemphisMechanic said:


You must be new to Italians.

 

Guns or cars, their products have an amazing amount of ‘personality’ to them. Keeps life exciting. 😁

🙂 so true! Still sexy guns though! And if they run they run!

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1 hour ago, Fasthenk65 said:

🙂 so true! Still sexy guns though! And if they run they run!


Totally agree! I’ll own one again someday soon. Miss mine too much.

 

They can be aggravating to set up if you don’t know how they work. My hair-pulling experience there was why I made the youtube videos, once I understood them.

 

But once you get a Tanfo set up, it runs and runs. I cleaned mine perhaps every 3,000 rounds. I just kept it lubed. They absolutely run just as filthy as a Glock or Walther will, on crappy ammo, if you don’t go light on the springs.

 

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic

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19 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

But once you get a Tanfo set up, it runs and runs. I cleaned mine perhaps every 3,000 rounds. I just kept it lubed. They absolutely run just as filthy as a Glock or Walther will, on crappy ammo, if you don’t go light on the springs.

 

Amen.  A lot of people really struggle with the duality of the guns being a little iffy OOB, but totally reliable if/once set up properly.  

 

When it comes to many consumer goods, most guns included, the factory condition is the most reliable it will ever be.  "Upgrades" by users generally either keep reliability the same (best case), or degrade it.  If that's your baseline experience, it's really strange to encounter a product where the inverse is true - user customization/tuning, if done properly, can enhance the reliability.  

 

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@ATLDave to put it differently:

 

1911s and Tanfos do not work great until you mess with them.

 

Glocks and M&Ps and such run great... until you mess with them.

 

;) 

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57 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:

@ATLDave to put it differently:

 

1911s and Tanfos do not work great until you mess with them.

 

Glocks and M&Ps and such run great... until you mess with them.

 

;) 

Yep.  The latter are intended as commodity consumer items.  The former are enthusiast items.  

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A Tanfo is a piece of mechanical art. A Glock for an M&P is a pair of brown wingtips.

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Amen.  A lot of people really struggle with the duality of the guns being a little iffy OOB, but totally reliable if/once set up properly.  
 
When it comes to many consumer goods, most guns included, the factory condition is the most reliable it will ever be.  "Upgrades" by users generally either keep reliability the same (best case), or degrade it.  If that's your baseline experience, it's really strange to encounter a product where the inverse is true - user customization/tuning, if done properly, can enhance the reliability.  
 


So, with all this said, what are the specific steps to tune the Tanfo to be a highly reliable performer?  Saying “it needs to be tuned to work” is one thing, but specifically what / how needs t be done?


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19 minutes ago, jebeckjr said:

 


So, with all this said, what are the specific steps to tune the Tanfo to be a highly reliable performer?  Saying “it needs to be tuned to work” is one thing, but specifically what / how needs t be done?


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Send barrel to have it reamed

Gauge your ammunition

Spring for loads being used 

Spring for primers being used

.... Its like syncing the Webers on an old European sports car, a PITA but the outcome is worth it

 

Edited by 67rschev

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Send barrel to have it reamed
Gauge your ammunition
Spring for loads being used 
Spring for primers being used
.... Its like syncing the carbs on an old European sports car, a PITA but the outcome is worth it
 

Barrel is reamed, and ammo passes case gauge. What specifically to do with the springs, assuming starting at stock?


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You can start here, if you haven't seen this yet. Trial and error, because what may work for my shooting grip, magic unicorn load, and shooting purpose may not work for you YMMV

I like 8 lb recoil for 147 N320 load, and I use federal primers exclusively gets a 10 # hammer with EGW sear and hammer, full fluff and buff

 

Edited by 67rschev

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You can start here, if you haven't seen this yet. Trial and error, because what may work for my shooting grip, magic unicorn load, and shooting purpose may not work for you YMMV
I like 8 lb recoil for 147 N320 load, and I use federal primers exclusively gets a 10 # hammer with EGW sear and hammer, full fluff and buff
 


I appreciate the post. Looks like a lot of good, but very general. Info.

The part I’m missing is the “if this is what’s happening, here’s what you tweak” section. For example, I’m using N320, 124gr Berry’s FP ammo, CCI primers. 2 Tanfo’s, brass ejecting forward of the line on an indoor range (which means no brass recovery). What variable do I tweak to change the angle of ejection?

That’s the guide I’m looking for. Theoretically, there should be some consistency and repeatability in these firearms, right? Meaning, “if you pull on this lever, you can expect this type of result”, right? If not, how does anyone know where to start to achieve a given result?


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I'm sorry to steer your thread off direction, to most it doesn't matter where the brass lands, just that it exits the chamber reliably. Mine dribbles out 1 to 3 o'clock, never an issue. If I was chasing ejection direction, i would buy a new sear cage and tinker the ejector 'arm' , or maybe even the hook on the extractor needs some experimentation.

Edited by 67rschev

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You need to angle the ejector face. It'll need two slight angles. You want the brass to contact the ejector on the bottom of the ejector, so a slight back angle needs to be ground into the ejector. This will make the brass go up when ejected. Next, you need a small angle ground onto the ejector towards the breech face. This will make the brass contact the ejector on the outside of the ejector first, causing the brass to go right. Posting a pic of the current ejector will help.

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8 hours ago, GrumpyOne said:

You need to angle the ejector face. It'll need two slight angles. You want the brass to contact the ejector on the bottom of the ejector, so a slight back angle needs to be ground into the ejector. This will make the brass go up when ejected. Next, you need a small angle ground onto the ejector towards the breech face. This will make the brass contact the ejector on the outside of the ejector first, causing the brass to go right. Posting a pic of the current ejector will help.


This is probably where I would start tuning...

 

Most Tanfos eject slightly forward, as do many of my other guns. If I want my brass back at the indoor, I grab the push broom and drag them back to me. I like 2 o’clock ejection because they don’t ricochet off the lane divider then hit me in the arm.

 

...So I’m guessing, because I’ve never actually played with it. 😕 

 

Grab a spare sear cage, extractor, and extra power Wolff extractor spring and then start filing on things between range trips. Unfortunately I don’t think anyone else will have the answer you seek because it hasn’t been an issue for them.

 

Definitely run the stronger extractor spring in general, it’s a big boost in reliability with a dirty gun.

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic

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Thanks everyone. I’ll grab some spare parts and start seeing where I can get some improvement.


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23 hours ago, jebeckjr said:

 


So, with all this said, what are the specific steps to tune the Tanfo to be a highly reliable performer?  Saying “it needs to be tuned to work” is one thing, but specifically what / how needs t be done?


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Depends on the individual gun.  Some/many run from the box, some don't.  

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Easy fix. Stroke slide, angle ejector and tune extractor tension.

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