Swage all brass? Ok for non crimped pockets?

[helocat]

Running a D1050 w/ Ammobot automation. 

 

I just bought 5k of range brass cleaned but mixed that includes some random crimped primers.  Ok to just process it all and swage all the primer pockets?  Do I risk hurting the non crimped by over processing them? 

 

Picked up the cleaned mixed range brass for 1.8 cents each delivered. Feeling good about the price just want to deal with the random mixed crimped primer pockets.  Based on suggestion from this board, I am pre-processing all the brass to deprime, resize before loading.   So easy to set up the automated swage system. 

 

Thank you for any suggestions or experience shares. 

[m700]

I would think it is the same idea as trimming, It will take it if it needs it but if its already short then it wont. If the crimp is pushed back already or was never there it should just run in and out without disturbing the pocket. Im on a 650 so I processed 5k a few years back Im still  working on that pile but the plan is to not swage, or maybe buy an aftermarket swage kit for the 650.

[Derdang]

I haven’t had any problems with swaging mixed brass. 

[GregJ]

Yes.  I only swage when loading, no issues swaging all brass on my AB driven 1050.  I use a primer probe during processing to detect pull backs, ringers, etc.  

 

Just make sure you are not over-swagging, will eventually break the rod.

 

Take a case, cut it in half, then cut a V section out of the bottom.  This allow you to see and adjust the swage rod without having the expansion on the backer rod interferring with what you are seeing and feeling.  I started using a Lyman M die instead of the backer rod, l like the results better. 

 

Or get these.

https://www.ammobrass.com/product-page/ammobrass-swage-setter

 

Edited October 4, 2019 by GregJ

[helocat]

13 hours ago, GregJ said:

Yes.  I only swage when loading, no issues swaging all brass on my AB driven 1050.  I use a primer probe during processing to detect pull backs, ringers, etc.  

 

Just make sure you are not over-swagging, will eventually break the rod.

 

Take a case, cut it in half, then cut a V section out of the bottom.  This allow you to see and adjust the swage rod without having the expansion on the backer rod interferring with what you are seeing and feeling.  I started using a Lyman M die instead of the backer rod, l like the results better. 

 

Or get these.

https://www.ammobrass.com/product-page/ammobrass-swage-setter

 

 

 

Good suggestion on the set up.  

 

Everyone else thank you for the info.  Makes sense to swage away. 

[RiggerJJ]

Not a good idea...

The swage hold down rod will meet different resistances as the bottom inside of cases made by different manufacturers are different thicknesses and profiles between the primer pocket and the inside bottom.

[MemphisMechanic]

8 minutes ago, RiggerJJ said:

Not a good idea...

The swage hold down rod will meet different resistances as the bottom inside of cases made by different manufacturers are different thicknesses and profiles between the primer pocket and the inside bottom.

 

Do you expect us to believe you sort your brass by headstamp and reset your Dillon 1050s swaging station meticulously to perfectly match each and every brand of brass?

 

Thousands of us successfully load mixed brass with the swage station set to clean up every primer pocket we run into. Without any problem whatsoever.

[RiggerJJ]

Have a day dude...Or as my British friend says, "fill yer boots..."

 

The only swage rod I have broken was from swaging mixed brass. I now only buy and swage same headstamp brass.

 

"cleaning up" a primer pocket is much different than 1st pass swaging. When I "clean up" primer pockets the swage rod isn't set as deep.

 

"thousands"????

I doubt it...

 

And yes, I do sort by headstamp. It's the only way to get a consistent result in finished ammo.

Edited October 9, 2019 by RiggerJJ