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Canik TP9SFX issue in competition


Dmatzinger
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I am new to competition shooting, and have been away from any shooting for the last 20+ years.

my buddy got me into shooting again a few months ago, and my son and I shot out first competition over the weekend.

i write the long entry, to let you know I don’t know anything, and all legit feedback is greatly appreciated, and to save you the time from critiquing my “ignorance”.

 

Durring the competition

we had 4 times the gun did not shoot, round was in the chamber, trigger was pulled, but only “click” no boom.

”tap, rack, and click”, the next round fired as expected.

we were unable to collect the 4 round to inspect the primer, but positively on 3 of the 4, a round ejected when the slide was pulled back.

 

an experienced guy at the competition mentioned it could be an issue with the striker, but to message here to see if it’s “known” in the canik community.

 

the gun is stock, about 2000 rounds through it, roughly 600 rounds since the last time it was cleaned when the failur occurred.

the mags in question were the stock +2 and it was 2 different mags, ( each failed twice), durring the 400 ish rounds we shot that day.

 

the Ammon was factory loaded Winchester 115g

 

we share the gun, so it happened to me 1 time and my son 3 times,

 

also, 

any suggestions on “spare parts” I should have on hand,

prevenative maintenance I should do, and the interval,

any other canik advice would be greatly appreciated 

 

thank you in advance,

Daniel 

 

 

 

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I would start at the common, easy fixes, then go from there. The obvious is dirty gun. Clean it, paying close attention to the chamber. Are you sure the 4 rounds that clicked were live rounds and not fired brass? The Canik is over sprung. If it doesn’t eject, fired brass might just re-chamber themselves. The slide doesn’t have to come back very far to recook the striker, and you’ll get a click, no bang. Could be bad or high primers, even though it’s factory ammo. Do a pencil test, but I doubt you’ll find a problem since it fired after you tap rack and banged. That’s all I can think of right now. 

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7 hours ago, OPENB said:

I would start at the common, easy fixes, then go from there. The obvious is dirty gun. Clean it, paying close attention to the chamber. Are you sure the 4 rounds that clicked were live rounds and not fired brass? The Canik is over sprung. If it doesn’t eject, fired brass might just re-chamber themselves. The slide doesn’t have to come back very far to recook the striker, and you’ll get a click, no bang. Could be bad or high primers, even though it’s factory ammo. Do a pencil test, but I doubt you’ll find a problem since it fired after you tap rack and banged. That’s all I can think of right now. 

 

The heavy recoil spring is where I'd be looking as well; see if you can reproduce the issue in practice. These guns are known to be oversprung, but if you contact Canik customer service supposedly they will send you a lighter recoil spring assembly. You can also use an aftermarket guide rod (IIRC from a full size 320?). I made my own and used a 13 lb G17 ISMI spring; that works great even with milder loads. 

 

The striker springs in these guns are also way over sprung, so I'd be surprised to hear of a genuine failure to fire from light strikes, unless the striker itself is broken. I'd examine the striker tip, and get Canik to replace it if there are any issues with it. 

I installed a Glock 6 lb striker spring in mine (stock is closer to 10 lb); that improves trigger pull and ignition has been flawless in my gun. 

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I've got around 4,000 rounds through my SFX.  I've never had a light strike on a primer that wasn't MY fault.  You can email Century Arms and they will normally send the blue RSA.

 

Clean the gun, including the striker channel.  DON'T LUBE THE STRIKER OR STRIKER CHANNEL.

 

I've made a few mods to my SFX.  Fat Daddy trigger and a spring kit.

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took it to the range yesterday, and it had 3 no fires, click, but no bang, was able to inspect each of those three rounds, no striker mark on the primer.  reloaded them, and they shot fine.  Leads me to believe its the striker assembly, but the intermittentness of it, makes it hard to trouble shoot, 

 

Thank you in advance for any advice,

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so I took it back apart, firing pin and the housing around it were clean, but the channel the striker travels down in the slide and 6 cotton swabs worth of brass particulate.  Spotless now, and I put a few hundred rounds through it without issue! hopefully that was it.

 

Now I have a new question.  would polishing the striker with compound and buffer wheel hurt anything?  The "coating" on the striker is worn in certain areas, and with everyone saying not to lube the striker, I think polishing it would only help it travel freely and stay cleaner?

 

Any one have reasons against polishing it?

IMG_7040[1801].jpg

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