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9mm bullets unseat in revolver


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Factory Federals gave me the same problem.  I switched to Wnchester and the problem went away.  Then I started reloading and it all has to do with the crimp.  Not a lot, just enough to take the bell out but bullet size is important.  I was shooting .357 and .358 lead bullets and never had one jump from the cases.

 

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I  revo is kinetic bullet puller.   you have to put a very tight crimp on them, almost to the point of going to a profile crimp over a tamper crimp.   The way I do a taper is to get the bell removed so it is flat, then turn the die in 1/2 turn more, go fire the gun and see if you will have to put more into it.

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It is about bullet and case friction.  A 115 gr.bullet being shorter has less bullet seated in the case so less friction. A heavier bullet will have more since there is more bullet in the case.  If you are using factory ammo that will be the only way to affect this, try a heavier bullet/load. 

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On 9/20/2019 at 2:15 AM, AzShooter said:

Factory Federals gave me the same problem.  I switched to Wnchester and the problem went away.  Then I started reloading and it all has to do with the crimp.  Not a lot, just enough to take the bell out but bullet size is important.  I was shooting .357 and .358 lead bullets and never had one jump from the cases.

 

 

Exact same experience. I'm shooting 160 grain coated 358 SNS or Bayou in a 929 crimped just enough to remove the bell. I use winchester brass and a Lee U die, not sure if the undersized die helps with bullets walking but it might.  

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  • 1 month later...
1 hour ago, Hi-Power Jack said:

Don't you use a roll crimp for revolvers ?

   I find roll crimps to be far superior in revolvers and consider the ability to roll crimp in my choice of bullets or molds.  Often times a bit of creativity is required, though.  The loads I use in my 627 are Starline 38 SC brass, a pinch of Titegroup (3.0 for ICORE, 3.1 for USPSA) and a Brazos Precision Bullets 158 round nose sized to .359.  I actually roll crimp into the lube groove for an oal of 1.20.  This stops bullet pull, removes the possibility of the edge of the case hanging when I throw a moon clip; and reduces the freebore to the throat.  When I was casting I used the lee 150 rn and used the same method.  45 ACP 230 grain rn  I use the Lee 1r and crimp into the lube groove, and I'm experimenting with Brazos Precision 250 RNFP .  I've got a minimum charge of Bullseye and I'm roll crimping into the crimp groove.  The oal is 1.185, but I'm only "shooting" for a stable bullet at 680-700 fps.  I've not been able to chrono the load yet, as its dark when I get home, but hopefully I can check this weekend.   I use the same method for 10mm and 40 using the 38/40 180 grain rnfp form brazos precision .  In 10 mm cases I'll roll crimp into the crimp groove; in 40 the lube groove.

I find roll crimping for revolvers, even if it takes some extra effort, is worth it.  Extreme spreads stay more consistent, reloads are more sure, and the risk of bullets hopping out of their case is minimized.  The only other downside is the rounds can only be fired on a revolver, but who wants to hunt down brass from a shell shucker anyway? ;0

JMO

Jason

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1)  Plated bullets are the most likely to pull in a Revolver

2) One reason why Revolver specific bullets have crimping grooves

3) In any caliber case wall thickness, and probably quality of material, many years ago I wouldn't use remington 38 super brass in my open guns due to case thickness.  With them it was because no matter how much crimp you applied the bullets would telescope in.

4) Factory ammo used to have some sealant at the bullets, I'd guess that the cheaper ammo has done away with that.

5) The heavier the bullet the more likely to pull, had a M29 I shot 44 russians out of with 240 lead RN that I Roll Crimped into the Crimping Groove and with enough firings (say same round fired in 2 cylinders before actual firing of that round) the bullet would pull free of the roll crimp.

6) You don't want to Roll Crimp a Jacketed Bullet without a Cannelure, it will collapse the case very quickly.  A light Taper Crimp with Jacketed with, or without, a Cannelure will work.  

7) Taper Crimping can be crimped into a Cannelure and a Crimping Groove pretty aggressively.  

8)  Taper Crimping, vs Roll Crimping, is much less case length specific.  If you shoot many times fired brass the case length will be vared and sometimes by quite a bit.  A Roll Crimp set for a shorter case can crumple a round.  Or raise a bulge large enough to cause chambering issues.

9)  If you Roll (which can be done in Plated Bullets even without a Cannelure) or Taper Crimp too much in a Plated Bullet it can pierce the plating and can lead to separation from the bullet.  I had this happen at a Nationals in 2008, the back piece stayed in the bore and left a third hole in the close target.  Luckily didn't hurt the gun, just caused me to hesitate.

10) As for Factory Ammo, the cheaper the ammo the more likely the issues.  I have some Magtech 9mm that are giving me fits with misfires.  At first I thought it was the light stikers/mainsprings.  But now I've come to the conclusion it's a bit more as some won't even fire with a factory glock stirker/spring.  It was really cheap, guess I got what I paid for?

 

I've had good luck using Taper Crimping with heavy Coated Bullets in my 627 with no crimp groove.  

 

The bullet pull you describe is definitely a BIG problem.  I'd not use them at all.

Unless you can take a few and apply a slightly heavier taper crimp to see if that will help.

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I use 147 gr. Blue Bullets with no cannelure taper crimped just enough to take the bell out. Never have I had a "walk out." After last match, I took the calipers to the rounds in the partially fired moons and found 3 out of a hundred that had walked out. The worse was .02", still within tolerance for my gun.

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  • 1 month later...

Hey Guys,

     I need a 9mm roll crimp die to use on my 650 for my 929 loads. Have been searching forums and googling this stuff for two days. Can someone please give me a part number of a die that will work. I called Dillon and they said they only make a taper crimp die for 9mm.

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4 hours ago, rwagner24 said:

Hey Guys,

     I need a 9mm roll crimp die to use on my 650 for my 929 loads. Have been searching forums and googling this stuff for two days. Can someone please give me a part number of a die that will work. I called Dillon and they said they only make a taper crimp die for 9mm.

A taper crimp die won’t work? What bullet are you using?

 

You may find a 9mm roll crimp die inside of a 9mm seating die.

Edited by MWP
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Maybe over thinking/making things harder than necessary?

 

i use a lee FCD die that the crimp is set to leave an indentation ring on a coated bullet.

 

works great and doesn’t effect accuracy 

 

easy way to to crimp a little, load a moonclip and shoot 7 - measure the last one.  If it’s getting longer 1/4 turn on the die and repeat.

 

or to save trips to the range load 8-Mark the die with a sharpie 1/4 turn down on the due and repeat 4 times just making sure you separate the rounds and label a bag. Once u get no lengthening on the 8th round you are done.

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2 hours ago, rwagner24 said:

 I have 2000 rounds of Starline that I picked up off the prize tables.  I read in some other comments that people had issues with It in 929’s. I haven’t seen anything yet falls right in ejects nice.  

Star line worked fine for when it was new for me, it was after that initial loading I had issues. Have you only fired the brass once so far or multiple times?

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