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bigboy69

Hammer Follow KIIILLLING MEEEEEEE

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I cannot figure out my hammer follow issue.  It started doing a couple dbl taps.  So I tried bending the sear spring and it worked for a little bit. It happened again, did a little more bending and it worked for a little more.  Ended up I couldnt shoot no more so bagged it for the day.  So I replaced the hammer, sear, disco and sear spring.  All EGW parts.  It worked for a couple hundred rounds and happened again.  So I replaced the hammer and sear, worked a little and happened again, messed with sear spring, happened again.  Put a 3rd sear and hammer in it and it worked for a little and happened again.  Tried a factory bent sear spring and it worked for about 20 rounds and it happened again......HELP?

 

I also gave the gun more rear travel and it still happened.  I replaced the trigger and gave the trigger more pre travel and now it is more sporadic. The next thing was to make the far left part of the sear spring pretty much straight up and see how it rests on the leg of the sear. It seems as though it jumps off of the sear leg.

Edited by bigboy69

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Do you have enough pressure on the disconnector leg of the spring!

are the grip screws staying tight?

Is the frt screw in and tight?  Especially if it's a plastic grip!

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18 minutes ago, jcc7x7 said:

Do you have enough pressure on the disconnector leg of the spring!

are the grip screws staying tight?

Is the frt screw in and tight?  Especially if it's a plastic grip!

 

Front screw is in and tight. Yes enough pressure on center leg for disco. Grip screws are tight.

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It looks to me as if there isnt enough of the left side of the sear spring sitting on the leg of the sear.  And I dont know how to change that except make the left leg straight up.

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Have you changed the grip safety/grip lately?  I had this issue when I bought 2 EVO's and chased it forever.  Finally found that the cut in the beavertail was not deep enough.  

Edited by echotango

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I had a plastic grip that I had to replace on a 2011, the sear leg kept slipping off!

I put a piece of masking tape on the left side of the sear spring and that solved it for a while.

But the grip had worn in the slot where the sear spring goes at the bottom under the MSH

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Had this isue also spring not sitting hi enought on the sear had to file out the slot for the spring and installed a t shaped spacer under the the sear spring it's almost as if the grip was cut wrong

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4 minutes ago, echotango said:

Have you changed the grip safety/grip lately?  I had this issue when I bought 2 EVO's and chased it forever.  Finally found that the cut in the beavertail was not deep enough.  

I did change it recently, but it started with the original and does it with this one, but I can change it back to eliminate.

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2 minutes ago, bigboy69 said:

I did change it recently, but it started with the original and does it with this one, but I can change it back to eliminate.

I just removed some material from the back of the hammer.  It was making marks in the beavertail. 

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Has it always done this? Or did it run fine for a long time then start?

 

Try pulling the sear, color the tip with sharpie. Put the hammer and sear back in and dry fire a few times. I leave the slide and GS off and just catch the hammer with my thumb so I don't have to put the gun all the way back together.

 

Once you do that pull the sear and see if you have contact on both sides with the hammer.

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10 minutes ago, jcc7x7 said:

I had a plastic grip that I had to replace on a 2011, the sear leg kept slipping off!

I put a piece of masking tape on the left side of the sear spring and that solved it for a while.

But the grip had worn in the slot where the sear spring goes at the bottom under the MSH

This gun was built about 25 yrs ago. Tripp Research frame.  This is a brand new factory STI take off grip. I've had other grips on it before and they were all fine, I just like this grip and it ran all last year with it on. It started doing it about 1/2 way through this season.

Edited by bigboy69

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2 minutes ago, Racinready300ex said:

Has it always done this? Or did it run fine for a long time then start?

 

Try pulling the sear, color the tip with sharpie. Put the hammer and sear back in and dry fire a few times. I leave the slide and GS off and just catch the hammer with my thumb so I don't have to put the gun all the way back together.

 

Once you do that pull the sear and see if you have contact on both sides with the hammer.

 

When I put in the last sear and hammer I did that with sharpie. I curious to see what it looks like.

It just started this season. It has run for many many years.

Edited by bigboy69

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If your grip isn't moving and your sear nose and hammer hooks are good then it's likely the location of the sear spring.  Try bending the lower tab of the sear spring a bit to make the sear spring locate higher.  Also, peen out the end of the sear leg so it contacts both higher and further in on the sear.

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I'd check the sear nose under magnification to see what is happening.  It may be that it has been damaged after a while, because the location of the components is incorrect.

 

1. back off your overtravel screw a lot. Dress the sear and try again.

2. Replace the disco with another brand and try again.

 

I had a similar issue when building my last Open gun. It turned out the trigger bow was slightly to long.  I took a punch, placed it where the disco rides and gave it a tap.  That made it ever so slightly concave.  Problem solved.  You don't want to know how many days of swapping out parts it took for me to figure that one out.

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3 hours ago, bigboy69 said:

 The next thing was to make the far left part of the sear spring pretty much straight up and see how it rests on the leg of the sear. It seems as though it jumps off of the sear leg.

 

The older STI grips are wider than new ones in the sear spring area. Springs can shuffle left and the left leg slips off the sear leg. The sear spring shouldn't be able to move over. 

 

I've seen sear springs peened outwards on the left so it contacts the left side of the grip so they can't move.

 

I am not sure if some sear springs are wider than others. They must have been at some point to match the grips. 

 

 

 

 

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Infinity sear springs are longer then normal if the spring is indeed coming off the sear. 

 

You didn't mention the trigger weight at all?

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3 hours ago, zzt said:

I'd check the sear nose under magnification to see what is happening.  It may be that it has been damaged after a while, because the location of the components is incorrect.

 

1. back off your overtravel screw a lot. Dress the sear and try again.

2. Replace the disco with another brand and try again.

 

I had a similar issue when building my last Open gun. It turned out the trigger bow was slightly to long.  I took a punch, placed it where the disco rides and gave it a tap.  That made it ever so slightly concave.  Problem solved.  You don't want to know how many days of swapping out parts it took for me to figure that one out.

I did replace the trigger with another trigger that looked shorter and it did give me more pre-travel. But I have been using this trigger the last 3 years

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11 minutes ago, mach1soldier said:

Infinity sear springs are longer then normal if the spring is indeed coming off the sear. 

 

You didn't mention the trigger weight at all?

The trigger pull weight is between 2 and 2 1/2 pounds

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The above pictures with the hammer cocked. This is with the hammer down

0909192022_HDR.jpg

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it's not ok. it can move under recoil. leaf spring sear leg  should seat 1mm higher.

when i received  my gun almost 2 y. ago  i figured that this situation can happen so i removed this problematic part from my gun.😀

 

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The pictures show that your plastic grip is toast. If the grip screws are tight there shouldn’t be a gap between the back of the grip and the back of the frame there they meet. If you hold the grip in one hand and the frame in the other then try to pry them toward and away from one another you shouldn’t be able to change the gap between them at the back of the frame/grip junction. If you can the grip is toast and needs to be replaced.

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Dealt with this intermittently for years and years and years. 

 

If you have a tight grip....like a gorilla grip....that might be enough to cause the hammer follow issues. When I switched to a metal grip the issue went away forever. 

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I've had this happen with older frames and plastic grips, the slot that the sear spring fits in is way too low. You get barely any engagement with the sear spring. I cut new slots in a couple grips to make the sear spring sit higher which works, steel grip works too since the slot is higher on them.

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11 hours ago, mach1soldier said:

Infinity sear springs are longer then normal if the spring is indeed coming off the sear. 

 

You didn't mention the trigger weight at all?

at one time so were Para and maybe yours as well.  A standard 1911 sear spring was just a hair too short to work all the time. Would cause exactly your problem, Find an older canadian era Para sear spring or the infinity try glide spring.

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