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Probably a stupid question but...

 

I got a new pistol and stripped it to the frame and started polishing all the usual parts. When I finished I decided to coat all the contact points with a light coat of dyekem. Has someone else tried this and found it to be a waste of time ? Just thinking it would be interesting to see what it rubbing where exactly when I strip it down for round 2 of the polishing.

As a machinist I've done something similar several times, but never on a firearm. What do ya think ?

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Where exactly are you polishing? I use Dykem all the time. There are many surfaces that will always be friction surfaces and rub the dykem off

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Trigger bar 

Sear 

Plunger 

Strut

Firing pin block

Hammer

Alot of small parts just to ease cleaning.

 

I expect most of it to be gone after a few hundred rounds, but my thought was it would show me where exactly to concentrate my efforts.

 

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As mach1 says, you're going to have some contact on those surfaces no matter what you do.  So, I wouldn't bother with the dykem.  Just polish all the contact surfaces and you'll be good to go.  400 grit is adequate, but you can go finer if you want.

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Dykem is actually a layout fluid and is not ideally suited for what you are thinking of doing.  Prussian Blue would be a much better choice.  You rub some onto only one surface of a mating pair.  When you slide the pair back and forth, the blue will transfer to the other surface at any contact points.  If you must use Dykem, apply the very thinnest of coats.

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22 hours ago, zzt said:

Dykem is actually a layout fluid and is not ideally suited for what you are thinking of doing.  Prussian Blue would be a much better choice.  You rub some onto only one surface of a mating pair.  When you slide the pair back and forth, the blue will transfer to the other surface at any contact points.  If you must use Dykem, apply the very thinnest of coats.

I was thinking pretty much the same thing but couldn't remember Prussian Blue.  I'm glad that there are those smarter than I on here.  

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7 hours ago, IPSCLUVERRR said:

What about using a black sharpie instead?

 

A black Sharpie won't transfer.  So you'll only know the high spots on the Sharpied side.  With PB, you know on both.  The clear spots on the side you applied the PB are high, as are the blue spots on the opposing side.

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14 hours ago, zzt said:

 

A black Sharpie won't transfer.  So you'll only know the high spots on the Sharpied side.  With PB, you know on both.  The clear spots on the side you applied the PB are high, as are the blue spots on the opposing side.

 

With an oiled gun, I don't think the Prussian Blue will work as well as you're saying; it tends to just go everywhere. Sharpie does too, depending on the gun oil. Dykem at least tends to stay put and will show wear marks on the part it was applied to. IME you'll see those wear marks in the steel (or plastic) anyway though. 

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You don't use Prussian Blue on oiled surfaces.

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15 hours ago, zzt said:

You don't use Prussian Blue on oiled surfaces.

 

Yes, that's my point. 

 

You might be thinking to just slide parts together in a dry gun, but that's not what the OP said he was doing. 

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8 hours ago, Yondering said:

 

Yes, that's my point. 

 

You might be thinking to just slide parts together in a dry gun, but that's not what the OP said he was doing. 

 

He polished the parts and then applied Dykem.  He made no mention of oiling the parts.

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On 9/22/2019 at 5:29 AM, zzt said:

 

He polished the parts and then applied Dykem.  He made no mention of oiling the parts.

 

Post #3. He mentioned shooting a few hundred rounds before stripping it down again. One would assume that would be with an oiled gun. 

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