How to adjust to adding a frame mounted optic

[nhyrum]

from what ive seen and heard, the most common functionality issue with adding an optic to a gun is making sure the case clears the port and the mount. The gun im building has a 10mm auto parent case, so its rather large. How does one adjust to this change? lowering and flaring the ejection port, plus changing the face of the ejector?

[gianmarko]

in the czechmate the cases regularly hit the red dot bracket. doesnt seem to be a problem

 

the homemade bracket that i have now, the cases often hit it, but i have shot already a thousand rounds no problem whatsoever. 

 

it has to be tested and bracked modified if necessary. i would not tamper with the ejection port, see the other thread on cracked slides...

[nhyrum]

in the czechmate the cases regularly hit the red dot bracket. doesnt seem to be a problem
 
the homemade bracket that i have now, the cases often hit it, but i have shot already a thousand rounds no problem whatsoever. 
 
it has to be tested and bracked modified if necessary. i would not tamper with the ejection port, see the other thread on cracked slides...

That's a good point about the slide. I'm already working with not the best slide, so I don't want to weaken it any more.

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[jcc7x7]

Get your ejection flat, 2 to230 and 90 to 120 degrees out to the side and then put mount on

[MikeBurgess]

Being built on a 10mm case I would not be surprised if the ejection pattern starts out better than most 9mm's 38 supers tend to eject better than 9 so with any luck the 10 case will as well.

 

that said the easiest fix is to run a optic mount that does not cover the ejection port, then short of some horrific ejection issues once the case clears the slide it doesn't matter where it goes. 90 deg cmore mounts or mini dots seem to work very well for this.

 

 

[zzt]

9mm and frame mounted vertical Sliderides are a problem unless you offset the mount for clearance.  10mm cases are straight walled, like 40sw.  They do not have the same problem.

 

There is no particular trick to getting 9mm cases to eject out at 2:30 or lower.  So there will be no issue with frame mounted reflex sights.  The one thing you have to make sure of is there is enough slide speed to throw the case at lease 18".  Otherwise the ejection port may close on the case before it clears.

 

With 40 and 10mm, it is easy to set ejection out at 3 or 3:30.  Then you don't have to worry about what frame mounted sight you use.

Edited September 4, 2019 by zzt

[nhyrum]

That all makes sense. Right now ejection is at about 3:00. Looking at the pictures of other guns WTF the rts2, the mount is right above the ejection port, which is further back than where I anticipate mine to be.

Glad to know, I likely won't run into issues, only getting everything mounted and shooting it will tell

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[MikeBurgess]

52 minutes ago, nhyrum said:

That all makes sense. Right now ejection is at about 3:00. Looking at the pictures of other guns WTF the rts2, the mount is right above the ejection port, which is further back than where I anticipate mine to be.

Glad to know, I likely won't run into issues, only getting everything mounted and shooting it will tell

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one thing to remember when looking at mounts for mini dots (like the RTS2) the ejection port moves so when its in battery it may be covering most of the port but when its ejecting the case it is behind the mount and open.  

[nhyrum]

one thing to remember when looking at mounts for mini dots (like the RTS2) the ejection port moves so when its in battery it may be covering most of the port but when its ejecting the case it is behind the mount and open.  

Durr. I even was holding my gun, and imagined having the mount over it, cycled the slide slowly, but forgot the mount will not move with the slide.

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[zzt]

You want the mount over the ejection port on a closed slide.

[MikeBurgess]

16 hours ago, nhyrum said:

Durr. I even was holding my gun, and imagined having the mount over it, cycled the slide slowly, but forgot the mount will not move with the slide.

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Don't worry you are by far not the first to have that thought.

[nhyrum]

Note to self. Loctite screws.

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[ehowell12]

Me and Loctite are BFF. I use red on the mount screws, and accept the fact that I'll have to break out the heat gun to break them free. I even use red on the mag release button, again accepting the fact that I'll have to break out the heat gun to take it off. Blue on anything on or close to an optic - probably not a good idea to heat an optic like that. There's already too many potential problems. 

Good Luck!

[nhyrum]

I used green. I hear it has the holding power of red, but no need for heat. But I might have to go red. I used blue on the grip screws on my 10mm and they'd come loose, even with blue, after a day at the range. I'll monitor these with green and see if I need to go red, which I might just do. These screws only have maybe two threads in the frame

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[zzt]

When using Loctite is is important to make sure all the old stuff is removed and everything is clean.  I run a tap through to clean out the old Loctite, then clean everything with alcohol.  Then apply the Loctite and install.  If you want a stronger bond, procede as above except use Loctite primer first.  Let it dry, apply Loctite and VERY quickly install.  You only have 15-20 seconds to get the screw in and tight before it bonds.