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MRBerg

cleaning the comp

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trying to clean the carbon build up out of my comp. any slick way to do it the carbon is hard as a rock ! tried soaking it over night no luck any info. would be great 

Ron 

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Glass bead blaster

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You didn't mention what you soaked it in...

 

I soak mine in Kroil and it really helps.  After an overnight soak, I use a brass punch to remove the bulk of the build up and it breaks away from the metal.  I then use a needle file to gently clean the rest out.

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I take it you plug the bore before blasting to keep it out do you tape off the outside so you don't mess up the finish Thanks in advance

Ron  

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1 hour ago, N3WWN said:

You didn't mention what you soaked it in...

 

I soak mine in Kroil and it really helps.  After an overnight soak, I use a brass punch to remove the bulk of the build up and it breaks away from the metal.  I then use a needle file to gently clean the rest out.

Wipe out bore cleaner not the foam 

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iF AND WHEN i GET ANY I SHOOT SOME WEAPON SHIELD SOLVENT IN IT AND LET IT IN OVER NIGHT OR THE NEXT TIME I GET TO THE RANGE AND "SHOOT IT OUT"

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I'm getting it slow but sure man its thick Thanks for all the help

Ron  

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Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, MRBerg said:

I take it you plug the bore before blasting to keep it out do you tape off the outside so you don't mess up the finish Thanks in advance

Ron  

Yes, I use a foam ear plug and plug the end of the barrel.  Then I slide a rubber glove over the barrel, tape it and hot glue it in the corner where the the barrel meets the comp. Seals everything off except the comp.  

Edited by echotango

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I soak the comp insides with Kroll and shoot it out the next day. Every so often when I take the gun down for a through cleaning I will scrap the nooks and crannies out with a small pick,,,

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got her all cleaned up bead blasted it looks brand new it was over an 1/8" thick in bottom Thanks for all the help and tips this is my first 2011 I haven't even got to shoot it yet 

Ron 

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1 hour ago, MRBerg said:

got her all cleaned up bead blasted it looks brand new it was over an 1/8" thick in bottom Thanks for all the help and tips this is my first 2011 I haven't even got to shoot it yet 

Ron 

👍

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Some good tips in here. I just usually use a scraper and a small mallet if needed. 

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5f6f6bd52c6b15b48d7ef8e0574b0d7f.jpg

 

Dremel engraving tool with a long/sharp chisel shaped tip. Works like a tiny jackhammer. Best way I’ve ever found.

 

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Once you get it clean, I've been told to use welding splatter spray. Prevents the build up. I've not seen a heavy buildup yet but plan on doing a heavy inspection and cleaning of all my guns in a couple weeks after the season ends. 

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17 hours ago, B_Seehawer said:

5f6f6bd52c6b15b48d7ef8e0574b0d7f.jpg

Deemed engraving tool with a long/sharp chisel shaped tip. Works like a tiny jackhammer. Best way I’ve ever found.

Do you have a part number for the tip or can you link amazon or another place to buy? Thanks!

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A shaped up 6D or #11 will work. Your best bet is to find literally any .125” diameter chunk of steel to use, mine is a little over 2” long. An old drill bit would be perfect.

No method of soaking or spraying can even compare to this for the time it saves.

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34 minutes ago, B_Seehawer said:

A shaped up 6D or #11 will work. Your best bet is to find literally any .125” diameter chunk of steel to use, mine is a little over 2” long. An old drill bit would be perfect.

No method of soaking or spraying can even compare to this for the time it saves.

I wonder how a paint can opener would work? Rounded edges even. 

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I wonder how a paint can opener would work? Rounded edges even. 

Well.

No

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Tried the glass bead blaster on a very caked up brake mount for a suppressor on my DMR and it worked like a charm.  +1 to glass bead blasting.  

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