WaynePatrick Posted March 9, 2020 Share Posted March 9, 2020 18 hours ago, m700 said: For pistols with carbide dies it worked fine for me for years Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk They'll load undersized but they won't be as good as they should be. I'd be glad to send you the new TNT die, give it a try. Post a review. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m700 Posted March 9, 2020 Share Posted March 9, 2020 (edited) 6 hours ago, WaynePatrick said: They'll load undersized but they won't be as good as they should be. I'd be glad to send you the new TNT die, give it a try. Post a review. Wayne, thank you for the offer but there are many here more qualified to give better reviews, Im only loading 20k (per year) across 5-6 calibers. I was bummed about loading with lube at first, but I got used to it. Just a run the rounds around in a towel and they clean up pretty easily. what I really gained out of the switching from my dillon carbide was lack of pull back that used to kill productivity. Edited March 9, 2020 by m700 correction Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1911in9mm Posted March 10, 2020 Share Posted March 10, 2020 I got one of the TNT dies from Mighty Armory a few weeks ago. Thus far I am more than impressed with it. I ran off the first 2 hundred dry tumbled CC/Walnut with Nufinish in the mix. It ran a bit better than my Hornady sizing die, bone dry. Very close to my Redding, very close second. Then I tried just a single spray of lanolin/alcohol lube over 350-400 cases, tossed to coat, then dried. Wow, what a difference. The die ran as smooth as any I’ve ever tried. No rejects on the case gauge, from completely unsorted range brass. Finished cartridges shot well, good consistency, chrono numbers were rock solid. To me, it was well worth the investment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Furrly Posted March 11, 2020 Share Posted March 11, 2020 On 3/9/2020 at 5:46 PM, 1911in9mm said: I got one of the TNT dies from Mighty Armory a few weeks ago. Thus far I am more than impressed with it. I ran off the first 2 hundred dry tumbled CC/Walnut with Nufinish in the mix. It ran a bit better than my Hornady sizing die, bone dry. Very close to my Redding, very close second. Then I tried just a single spray of lanolin/alcohol lube over 350-400 cases, tossed to coat, then dried. Wow, what a difference. The die ran as smooth as any I’ve ever tried. No rejects on the case gauge, from completely unsorted range brass. Finished cartridges shot well, good consistency, chrono numbers were rock solid. To me, it was well worth the investment. What caliber? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigMoneyGrip Posted March 11, 2020 Share Posted March 11, 2020 I'm confused. With the TNT die, I can run 9mm with no lube if I wet tumble and use a car wash/wax as a cleaner? I usually decap and size before the wash cycle but I would change my process if I need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigMoneyGrip Posted March 11, 2020 Share Posted March 11, 2020 I'm confused. With the TNT die, I can run 9mm with no lube if I wet tumble and use a car wash/wax as a cleaner? I usually decap and size before the wash cycle but I would change my process if I need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m700 Posted March 11, 2020 Share Posted March 11, 2020 It will be easier on the press and you to lube but with the tnt you do not have to. If you dry tumble the Polish will provide lubricity as will the remaining carbon. When you wet tumble with pins you remove the carbon and almost all lubricity so loading gets a little harder. The wax will give you a little bit back.Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1911in9mm Posted March 12, 2020 Share Posted March 12, 2020 16 hours ago, Furrly said: What caliber? 9mm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WaynePatrick Posted March 13, 2020 Share Posted March 13, 2020 On 3/11/2020 at 3:46 PM, BigMoneyGrip said: I'm confused. With the TNT die, I can run 9mm with no lube if I wet tumble and use a car wash/wax as a cleaner? I usually decap and size before the wash cycle but I would change my process if I need. The more the die is use the smoother the bore will become. Polish in a dry media works well too. Dry carbon covered brass will cause friction and heat. Not a good idea to size brass in that condition with any die. Contact me if you like.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CZGeoege Posted May 3, 2020 Share Posted May 3, 2020 On 3/13/2020 at 9:09 AM, WaynePatrick said: The more the die is use the smoother the bore will become. Polish in a dry media works well too. Dry carbon covered brass will cause friction and heat. Not a good idea to size brass in that condition with any die. Contact me if you like.. I tried contacting you through your website email... no response, one week elapsed. Questions regarding 40 cal sizing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
candiru Posted May 3, 2020 Share Posted May 3, 2020 I tried contacting you through your website email... no response, one week elapsed. Questions regarding 40 cal sizing.What’s your question? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CZGeoege Posted May 3, 2020 Share Posted May 3, 2020 13 hours ago, candiru said: What’s your question? Just wanted to know if I needed to size and decap 40 brass? Sizing die or decapping die or what?? Just needed some info on what to buy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CZGeoege Posted May 3, 2020 Share Posted May 3, 2020 Do I need to buy the TNT sizing die plus the TNT match primer flicker shaft and pin? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
candiru Posted May 3, 2020 Share Posted May 3, 2020 1 minute ago, CZGeoege said: Just wanted to know if I needed to size and decap 40 brass? Sizing die or decapping die or what?? Just needed some info on what to buy. Depends... what's your press? For example, people running 1050's/(R)Evo's, tend to have a dedicated decapping die in Station 2 and then run a sizing die in one of the other stations. That what I do on a Evo Pro. Or you can run the decapping & sizing die in Station 2. It's up to you. If you go with the combined decapping & sizing approach then yes, you'll need to buy both the die plus decapping setup. You definitely want the flicker spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CZGeoege Posted May 3, 2020 Share Posted May 3, 2020 6 minutes ago, candiru said: Depends... what's your press? For example, people running 1050's/(R)Evo's, tend to have a dedicated decapping die in Station 2 and then run a sizing die in one of the other stations. That what I do on a Evo Pro. Or you can run the decapping & sizing die in Station 2. It's up to you. If you go with the combined decapping & sizing approach then yes, you'll need to buy both the die plus decapping setup. You definitely want the flicker spring. It’s for my 750 , thanks for the info!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JatCarver Posted August 1, 2020 Share Posted August 1, 2020 What’s people’s experience with the TNT Gold Match die without lube? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akkid17 Posted August 2, 2020 Share Posted August 2, 2020 I finally had to give up on my MA dies, they were awesome for a while but when I switched to jacketed bullets in 9mm it would have about 3-5% of the cases that would not have enough tension to hold the bullet securely and I was getting pretty bad setback. I used Zero 147gr JHP, PD 124gr JHP, and MG 124gr JHP's and they all had the issue so after sorting and pulling about 120 bullets I just put my RCBS back in the press and I'll just deal with bottleneck brass. (measured random sample of bullets all were .355 or greater, I was not over flaring my cases I backed out my expander until the bullet barely sat by itself in the case mouth. I even tried a few of the failed cases by resizing them and then pushing a bullet into the case mouth by hand and it would sink all the way in. I had this happen on several different headstamps) The 40 die was causing serious scarring on the brass and it was beginning to require a lot more force to size brass, they case gauged beautifully and I liked not having the bottle neck but I'm not going to deal with the headache of messing with those dies anymore. I used hornady one-shot lube, which I know is a no-no, so it's probably mostly my fault for the scratches in the bore of the die. I will say that I am a 100% believer in their decapping and swage back up dies, they are awesome and easy to set up and clean. If the TNT die has solved these issues I may consider investing in a set in the future but for now rcbs and hornady will work just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chgofirefighter Posted August 5, 2020 Share Posted August 5, 2020 On 10/14/2019 at 9:32 AM, RangerTrace said: I run an EGW U-die and haven't had a single case fail the case gauge since I started using it. Highly recommend it. EGW is the exact same die as the Lee U die only factor is that you'll end up spending more. I contacted EGW and they confirmed that it's basically a rebranded Lee U die Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOGRIDER Posted August 8, 2020 Share Posted August 8, 2020 On 8/5/2020 at 12:57 AM, chgofirefighter said: EGW is the exact same die as the Lee U die only factor is that you'll end up spending more. I contacted EGW and they confirmed that it's basically a rebranded Lee U die This is correct! I have verified the same info with an earlier phone call to EGW.............. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chgofirefighter Posted August 8, 2020 Share Posted August 8, 2020 17 hours ago, HOGRIDER said: This is correct! I have verified the same info with an earlier phone call to EGW.............. Yup! Indeed~ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris777 Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 On 8/2/2020 at 4:57 PM, Akkid17 said: I finally had to give up on my MA dies, they were awesome for a while but when I switched to jacketed bullets in 9mm it would have about 3-5% of the cases that would not have enough tension to hold the bullet securely and I was getting pretty bad setback. I used Zero 147gr JHP, PD 124gr JHP, and MG 124gr JHP's and they all had the issue so after sorting and pulling about 120 bullets I just put my RCBS back in the press and I'll just deal with bottleneck brass. (measured random sample of bullets all were .355 or greater, I was not over flaring my cases I backed out my expander until the bullet barely sat by itself in the case mouth. I even tried a few of the failed cases by resizing them and then pushing a bullet into the case mouth by hand and it would sink all the way in. I had this happen on several different headstamps) The 40 die was causing serious scarring on the brass and it was beginning to require a lot more force to size brass, they case gauged beautifully and I liked not having the bottle neck but I'm not going to deal with the headache of messing with those dies anymore. I used hornady one-shot lube, which I know is a no-no, so it's probably mostly my fault for the scratches in the bore of the die. I will say that I am a 100% believer in their decapping and swage back up dies, they are awesome and easy to set up and clean. If the TNT die has solved these issues I may consider investing in a set in the future but for now rcbs and hornady will work just fine. I have had the same experience with the all versions of the MA 9mm sizing dies when loading jacketed bullets. I was seeing a high percentage of my FMJ rounds failing from easy push back of the bullet. The latest TNT dies is an improvement, but I am still seeing a small percentage of rounds unable to provide correct tension to hold an FMJ. Its completely useless to me for reloading FMJ. Now, loading lead or coated bullets is a different story. The die works perfectly due to the 0.001 larger diameter of most lead or coated bullets. The downside is having to lube my brass to reload. I end up with dirty rounds due to the lube. No way i am re-tumbling 9mm rounds to clean them. The only reason i continue to use the MA dies is the decapper. It is the best, most reliable decapper system of any die manufacture (IMO). For me, it worth having dirty rounds to ensure 100% of my brass is properly decapped on my press. NO more big BANG surprises. That, said, I may give the Redding 9mm sizer, decapper a try at some point in the future. Otherwise I need to go back to my Lee U die if i want to reload FMJ's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akkid17 Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 @Chris777 same experience with coated Bullets, I was able to get away with hornady one shot on the 9mm die but not 40, bulged brass caused too much friction and wound up scarring the die bore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rooster Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 I had the same experience in 9mm, there was no neck tension. My bullets literally fell inside the cases. I went back to my Redding and everything was back to normal. I have used Dillon, and the Lee u die, the Redding titanium carbide die is the best resizing die I have used to date. When I case gauge I might get 2 rounds out of a hundred that won’t pass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4n2t0 Posted August 11, 2020 Share Posted August 11, 2020 17 hours ago, rooster said: When I case gauge I might get 2 rounds out of a hundred that won’t pass. I get a similar gauge failure rate (~1%) using plain old Dillon dies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rooster Posted August 11, 2020 Share Posted August 11, 2020 The Dillon dies are fine, but they tend to leave a wasp shape, which I don’t care for. I know it helps with setback, but the Redding gets down just as far and no wasp shape. When I was using the dillon I ground down the base of the die even with the carbide ring to get down even further to remove the bell which happens when fired in unsupported chambers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now