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Is this normal wear and tear for about 300 rounds?


b1indfire

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To me it looks like you are just shooting dirty ammo, with lots of lead and soot getting on the gun. The round circle marks just look like they are in the soot on the recoil shield. The dirt goes from the cylinder gap up along the underside of the topstrap, then down across the face of the recoil shield.you can see how it fans out above the center pin hole.

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Is the soot/carbon interfering with the revolver's functionality?  Or is it an issue of aesthetics that you simply cannot tolerate?

 

If the gun is providing acceptable reliability and accuracy, just shoot it and give it a good cleaning as necessary.  Lewis, Hoppe's, and other manufacturers make "lead removers" and cloths made to help make this job easier.

 

There are also other ammunition manufacturers that produce and sell cast bullet ammo that likely would shoot cleaner than the specific load you are using.

 

A revolver (especially one with a stainless finish) isn't going to be "pretty" after a range session or match.  Remedied by cleaning.

 

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9 hours ago, b1indfire said:

So should I switch to shooting jacketed rounds only?
That's going to be a lot more expensive, especially since I don't have room for reloading (apartment).

 

PPU is pretty dirty stuff, I used to shoot it before starting to reload. 

Cheap powder

Cheap primers

Soft lead

 

All equal for a dirty revolver.

 

Unless the quality of the ammo or residue bothers you , keep at it - just need a little more attention for cleaning.

 

Once you start to reload / different ammo with higher quality components you'll notice you'll get between ALOT more rounds before having to due a good cleaning.

 

 

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If you got to a major match and shoot 200-500 rounds in a day you will need a gun / ammo combination that functions reliably and maintains accuracy through out the match.  If you shoot 150 rounds a week and never clean you gun all season you are looking at the same issues.  Of course you can brush out the cylinder and opening in the frame after each stage.  But that's not a fix.  Sometimes you shoot last on one stage and first on the next.

 

So if your chasing cleanliness just for looks good luck.  Build a gun and get ammo that is not sensitive to some dirt, go shooting and enjoy.

 

If you practice every day as the top shooters do, cleaning will consume much of your time.

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Remember FMJ's usuall have an exposed lead base and will also be a bit dirty.

CMJ's or JHP's will be the cleanest.  And usually JHP's are the most accurate due to the base being squared during the formation of the HP.

 

It seems that the build up is usually self limiting.

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Lead bullets can be messy. You get some lead in barrel, cylinder and around the cylinder gap; lubricant residues all over the place; and soot from the powder. I like to reload with copper plated bullets, and look for powder charges that shoot well, meet any power requirement that I might have, and have enough pressure to minimize soot and unburned powder.

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On 7/30/2019 at 4:07 PM, racerba said:

i've never seen casing marks on the frame (behind the cylinder not the one being fired) before...(last picture)

jLafZ6u.jpg

Is the mark or scratch on the back where the center pin in the extractor slides an actual gouge in the metal? as I can see some metal  hanging right where the pin starts to enguage the frame, Or is there so much crude that it is just crude and can be wiped off?  

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On 7/31/2019 at 8:09 PM, revoman said:

Is the mark or scratch on the back where the center pin in the extractor slides an actual gouge in the metal? as I can see some metal  hanging right where the pin starts to enguage the frame, Or is there so much crude that it is just crude and can be wiped off?  

 

Those are actual gouges, but are very shallow.

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