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IVC

1050 Initial Setup/Operation Questions

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A new 1050 showed up at my front door a few weeks back, after I decided to get myself off of the 1100 waiting list - I don't have another progressive machine and needed to get practice and match ammo loaded long. I set it up on my workbench, set up dies, reloaded several batches and now have some pretty basic questions. 

 

(1) When I'm about to end reloading and need to "cycle it dry," what's the best way to prevent new cases from feeding? I would just pull the handle down, grab the screw that holds the shell holder at the point where I won't get pinched by the actuator and then keep cycling until brass in station 2 goes it's merry way round. Is there a better way? Should I just remove the case-feeder tube and finish the few remaining pieces of brass?

 

(2) SWAGER: I have cut out about 1/3 of one case with Dremel so that I can see how far the swager rod goes in. Adjusting the backer was pretty straightforward since I was looking for the contact with the inside bottom of the brass. However, I could have somewhat different depth of the swager rod and it all looked pretty good. I decided to back it off just a bit because I've heard of shell plates being messed up when using incorrectly adjusted swager station, then I tested it with a piece of brass with spent primer to see whether it would "pass" (it didn't), which is the primary purpose for the swager (reloading .40). So, what is the main concern with swager rod adjusted too deep and how does it mess up the shell plate?

 

(3) I have added the EGW primer backer on stage 4, mostly just to balance the shell plate. Is this even necessary and does it help at all? Those are inexpensive so there is no financial reason to keep/remove. 

 

(4) My setup includes MBF on station 6, no powder check, Redding micrometer seating and micrometer crimping dies. One thing that bugs me is that I cannot see very well the powder content on stage 6 for visual check unless I am actively looking around. Is there any mirror or trick to get a better view of the powder level?

 

(5) How often do you do QC? I will take a round at random from station 6 and measure the powder charge, then I will take a few from collection bin and measure the OAL. I do it about once per hundred or so rounds. Any suggestions here? 

 

(6) My Dillon decapping die has the nice spring-loaded pin, but the size tends to be all over the place and a lot of brass doesn't really pass my hundo gauge. They get "lightly stuck" at the base (I can push them all the way in). I understand that the hundo is generally tight, but I also want to be able to separate brass that might have Glock bulge and could cause problems. I have ordered Lee U die (arriving tomorrow). Is this a good way to go and should I expect any issues with decapping now that the spring loaded pin is gone?

 

Any other tips that can make my life easier? My setup is solid now and I have worked out the kinks with adjusting everything from DAA powder funnel to the angle of collator and the speed of rotation. 

 

Thanks!

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For (1), I used a piece of coathanger wire, bent it around the bolt ( on the right side ) and pulled the case plunger back. Then I bent the wire around the back of the case plunger case. When I want stop feeding cases, I hook the wire around the bolt with the handle down and slip it around the housing. Plunger stays back and no more cases feed.

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Armanov makes a case feeder stop, I think there are others as well.

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Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, IVC said:

A new 1050 showed up at my front door a few weeks back, after I decided to get myself off of the 1100 waiting list - I don't have another progressive machine and needed to get practice and match ammo loaded long. I set it up on my workbench, set up dies, reloaded several batches and now have some pretty basic questions. 

 

 

1 - Several options, I use the Inline Fab casefeed stop (https://inlinefabrication.com/products/case-feed-stop-dillon-1050), but there are less costly 3d printed versions on ebay pretty often.  Or you can use a homemade solution like a twisted up wire, pipe cleaner, etc...

 

2. The primary purpose of the swager is crimping out the primer pocket (and opening up the case mouth if needed in the same step).  You generally don't run into crimped primer pockets on 40 (which I think is what you were referring to)... anyway the Dillon swager rod is considered one of the weak points of the 1050, which might be one reason you see folks recommend to back it off if not actually using it, to prevent any accidental contact (missed primer) that might break it.  Personally, I set the swager to swage as required when running brass that might have crimps, ie 556 or nato 9mm, but when running 45 I remove it and swap in a Small Pistol Primer detector instead.  The Hold back die will still open up the brass and prevent runout on the shellplate.  Other calibers I just set it similar to how you mentioned, so that I will feel a missed primer on the downstroke.

 

3. I have the Everglades backer (I think this is what you meant, not EGW?) on my 45acp toolhead as well.  It's been discussed some, the Everglades version is just a threaded bolt essentially so there is no "give" like you would see with the Level 10 product, so seems of little benefit unless processing sorted brass.  Mixed brass will have variations in case length and base thickness rendering the EGA hit or miss.  I haven't removed it, and have many times though about epoxying a small short spring on the bottom of the bolt that would allow it a bit of give, thus making it more useful for mixed brass runs - but never followed through with it.  I'm not sure how necessary it really is to be honest.  I think EGA developed it for their presses which had run 10's of thousands of rounds so were pretty well worn.

 

4. Several options - Using backup cam meant for auto's, or an endoscope that attaches to a tablet or similar small flat screen monitor.  Search through the forum you'll find a few posts on it - https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/241288-diy-dillon-1050-powder-camera-video/? Honestly though, it's dang near impossible to load a double or a squib on a 1050 when using the newer style PM failsafe.  I've got a monitor setup on mine but have been considering taking it off - i don't even use it that much, my eyes are on the tool head anyway so I can see the powder fairly well regardless.

 

5.  Depends on caliber - I usually pull a few rounds at the beginning right away and double check everything, then run 10 or 20, and pull another. If no issues there I'll randomly grab a couple per hundred.  9mm is the worst for me I'm finding, so I have started checking more often.  But typical strait wall 45/10mm etc I don't pull as often.

 

6. This is a whole 'nother thread lol  Check out the 9mm 1050 dies thread there is a lot of talk about size/decap dies.  The Dillon die actually sizes further down than the Lee IIRC, and is akin to a small base/undersize die... almost.  I think the lee advertises .003 undersize, and the EGW is .001.  Lots of guys are changing to the Mighty Armory dies, but there have been QC and shipping issues.  I tried the Lee Size/Decap and Factory Crimp Dies but am currently back to using the Dillon dies.  9mm is a work in progress for me at this point so I am still working out the issues so am leery to give advise here.  However depending on the desired result (are you loading match brass, or range fodder), sometime a case gauge can have you chasing your a$$ forever.  For range use a better option is to use your firearm's barrel/chamber as a checker.

 

General tips - Don't start adding a bunch of gimmick bearings/balls/etc - just keep the system clean and lubed.  Do add a Level 10 toolhead spring, it is miles better than the Dillon setup.  The Level 10 primer catch kit is also a nice useful upgrade.  Redding comp dies are solid, good choices there.  Dillon/Lee/EGW/MA size decap dies are all good.  Dillon probably has the weakest pin (but does have the spring to help offset that.).  Actually the c-clip can break, I broke the clip before I bent a pin, so make sure you have an extra or two if keeping the Dillon decap die in place.  I think all die sets include one extra c-clip in the box, or at least they used to.  Removing unused primers is a pain/mess, so try to end a run as close to running out or primers as possible :).

 

 

Edited by 78Staff

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Wow guys, thank you for all the detailed responses. I expected to get some information, but the amount of detail and knowledge here is amazing. 

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Posted (edited)
12 hours ago, 78Staff said:

 

1 - Several options, I use the Inline Fab casefeed stop (https://inlinefabrication.com/products/case-feed-stop-dillon-1050), but there are less costly 3d printed versions on ebay pretty often.  Or you can use a homemade solution like a twisted up wire, pipe cleaner, etc...

That looks exactly like what I was looking for. $20 is not bad at all - it's a solid piece of gear.

 

Quote

2. The primary purpose of the swager is crimping out the primer pocket (and opening up the case mouth if needed in the same step).  You generally don't run into crimped primer pockets on 40 (which I think is what you were referring to)... anyway the Dillon swager rod is considered one of the weak points of the 1050, which might be one reason you see folks recommend to back it off if not actually using it, to prevent any accidental contact (missed primer) that might break it.  Personally, I set the swager to swage as required when running brass that might have crimps, ie 556 or nato 9mm, but when running 45 I remove it and swap in a Small Pistol Primer detector instead.  The Hold back die will still open up the brass and prevent runout on the shellplate.  Other calibers I just set it similar to how you mentioned, so that I will feel a missed primer on the downstroke.

Good to hear - Yes, it's .40 (soon to be 38SC as well) and I don't use it for crimped primer pockets, just to detect failed decapping. 

 

Quote

3. I have the Everglades backer (I think this is what you meant, not EGW?) on my 45acp toolhead as well.  It's been discussed some, the Everglades version is just a threaded bolt essentially so there is no "give" like you would see with the Level 10 product, so seems of little benefit unless processing sorted brass.  Mixed brass will have variations in case length and base thickness rendering the EGA hit or miss.  I haven't removed it, and have many times though about epoxying a small short spring on the bottom of the bolt that would allow it a bit of give, thus making it more useful for mixed brass runs - but never followed through with it.  I'm not sure how necessary it really is to be honest.  I think EGA developed it for their presses which had run 10's of thousands of rounds so were pretty well worn.

Ha, indeed it's EGA (not EGW). 

 

Very interesting link to Level 10 backer (I am new to Dillon/1050, so I'm just learning about these vendors). I wasn't aware of it and I can see how the spring loaded design is the correct way to do it. I'll do what you did for now - just leave it there until/unless I run into problems. 

 

Quote

4. Several options - Using backup cam meant for auto's, or an endoscope that attaches to a tablet or similar small flat screen monitor.  Search through the forum you'll find a few posts on it - https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/241288-diy-dillon-1050-powder-camera-video/? Honestly though, it's dang near impossible to load a double or a squib on a 1050 when using the newer style PM failsafe.  I've got a monitor setup on mine but have been considering taking it off - i don't even use it that much, my eyes are on the tool head anyway so I can see the powder fairly well regardless.

I see the problem - even with camera you still have to watch it and if you don't, it defeats the purpose. I wish I had an extra station for powder check as I don't want to seat and crimp with a single die. For now, I'll just leave it as-is. 

 

Quote

6. This is a whole 'nother thread lol  Check out the 9mm 1050 dies thread there is a lot of talk about size/decap dies.  The Dillon die actually sizes further down than the Lee IIRC, and is akin to a small base/undersize die... almost.  I think the lee advertises .003 undersize, and the EGW is .001.  Lots of guys are changing to the Mighty Armory dies, but there have been QC and shipping issues.  I tried the Lee Size/Decap and Factory Crimp Dies but am currently back to using the Dillon dies.  9mm is a work in progress for me at this point so I am still working out the issues so am leery to give advise here.  However depending on the desired result (are you loading match brass, or range fodder), sometime a case gauge can have you chasing your a$$ forever.  For range use a better option is to use your firearm's barrel/chamber as a checker.

I figured it would be along these lines - trial and error, finding what works, figuring tolerances based on the specific chamber, etc. 

 

Thanks for your time and input!

Edited by IVC

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17 hours ago, tkheard said:

For (1), I used a piece of coathanger wire, bent it around the bolt ( on the right side ) and pulled the case plunger back. Then I bent the wire around the back of the case plunger case. When I want stop feeding cases, I hook the wire around the bolt with the handle down and slip it around the housing. Plunger stays back and no more cases feed.

Looks like a good quick way to do it. I'll probably try it before I decide on a more permanent solution. 

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17 hours ago, cbrussell said:

Armanov makes a case feeder stop, I think there are others as well.

Thanks for the info - It's good to learn about various vendors if I need it down the road.

 

What I noticed is that they sell quite a bit of small improvements and that one can spend more than one's wife would on accessorizing her purses, jewelry and shoes combined. 🙂

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I find the 1050 perfect as it comes. If I am going to stop loading, I turn off the case feeder. I may pull the case tube if I am in a hurry to stop.

For load development, I only feed 10 cases into the case feeder. If I am mass producing, I simply turn off the case feeder finish up.

(I really HATE the way this site sets a URL for certain phrases (like case feeder), and then moves the cursor in FRONT of the phrase, since my typing then starts to overwrite what I have typed)

The very best thing to do is to get the DVD and watch everything the technician does. He does things without thinking that make the job easier. Very good thing to watch carefully.

I don't check powder weight, I run an RCBS Lock-Out die to check the powder. VERY sensitive. So far, after several years, there have been no charge rejects, but the die detects powder height changes due to differences in brand of case. I keep the Lock-Out die sort of loose, so when it lock up, I can make a ver small change and get it to unlock. I then check the weight anyway and it has always been within 0.1gn of target.

Just as a point of contention, I find my Lee Pro Auto-Disks and Hornady powder measures to be a bit more consistent than the Dillon, which will throw the rare 0.2gn charge from target.

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After some more analysis, I was able to fix #6 in the OP - it was light crimp that was causing the problems, not necessarily the sizing die. I figured it out after running a batch of pre-processed brass that was initially passing the gauge, so the problem couldn't have been the sizing die and it had to be crimping. Since I have micrometer adjustable Redding crimping die, I moved it several ticks and the brass started passing hundo. 

 

This is certainly quite an interesting process to get the system to work well. 

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