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Helios

Light strikes

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Hello all - I’m trying to work the process of elimination to figure out exactly where my light strikes are coming from but I’m having a hard time getting to the range right now so I thought I’d ask for some wild speculation here in the meantime. I have a gen 4 Glock 34 with a Johnny Glock trigger in it that is giving me light strikes. I’m using a Johnny Glock worked OEM striker with a 4.5# striker spring and it will only set off Federal primers reliably. I didn’t (don’t) really mind that except curiosity has me wondering which part of the equation is giving light strikes.  

 

This set up gives a light strike in every 20 or so rounds with all of my reloads with CCI primers as well as all factory ammo that isn’t Federal, but is 100% with my reloads using Fed primers so I’m confident is not a primer seating issue. I’ve also ensured the striker channel is clean. 

 

This set up with a OEM striker spring is 100% with all primers I’ve used. My other 34 with a just a “-“ connector and 4.5# striker spring on a OEM striker that I’ve polished but not stoned is 100% with all Fed and CCI primers. I’ve read of plenty of other people using a 4.5# spring without having to be overly picky about primers. 

 

SO - when I make it to the range I will test to figure out what works, but in theory is it more likely that the light strikes are coming from the reduction in pretravel, the stoned striker face, or a combo of both? Or something else? 

 

I love the trigger feel and this isn’t a dig at JG, I’m just curious about what’s going on. 

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I would try replacing the striker spring. A 4.5LB spring should be 100% with most any type of factory ammo. A Wolff 4.5 LB spring should be the cure. Your spring could be a little weak and that is all it takes for light strikes.

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CCI’s are the hardest primers around. Pretty much anything other than a factory striker spring is gonna have trouble setting them off.

I quite buying CCI’s because of this. Even with an extended and lightened firing pin from Zev I had trouble getting reliable ignition with CCI’s and light springs.

Federal and Winchester primers will light off pretty much 100% of the time with super light springs.

These are my findings at least. YMMV



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Make sure there is enough over travel. Take safety plunger out and see if there are light strikes still. A lot of those modified trigger bars, parts, etc to take out maximum pre and over travel mess up the timing of plunger and striker clearing each other

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There are a few things to check.  All I use in my ammo are CCI primers and have no issues.  So lets go through some things.  As stated above a 4.5lb spring should set off all factory loaded ammo and all reloads even Tula as long as they are done right. So lets check some things.

 

What machine are you reloading on and can you set off the light strike round on a second attempt?  If so that would be a sign of your primers not being fully seated which is a must for the Glock  I use a 550 Dillon and I am a stout fella and I pretty

much bounce myself off the primer seat strokes.  But you also mentioned it does this on factory ammo as well.  So lets go further.

 

You can start with a new spring but while there lets check these other things as well for process of elimination.

 

 

Check to be sure your spring cups are not being split by the end of the striker spring coil end.  If the end of the coil is at the split of the two cups move them around and away from the split.  This can cause just enough drag in the channel to cause a light strike.

 

 

Finally check your safety plunger and striker for any signs of them hitting each other at all. Even just a little contact (usually just a touch to much over travel removed) can slow the striker down just enough to cause a light strike.  If you see evidence of impact (marks on the shelfs of the striker and nicks in the edge of the safety plunger) then you need to add some over travel back to the system. 

 

Regards,

DK

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Johnny glock is fanatical about his triggers. Call him he will help you.

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On 7/3/2019 at 2:38 PM, JBP55 said:

What Rooster said.

 

Double Ditto.

 

Why go to a bunch of self-appointed experts when you can consult the master and builder?

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First thing I would check is to see if the primers were flush or slightly below the case.I have been down this road with a Glock.I had high primers that would ingnite 100% in a 1911 with an 18lb mainspring that wouldn’t in a Glock.


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Was at a match couple weeks ago, guy said he was having lite strikes also. Went to safe area with another shooter replaced striker spring,, done it worked.

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Posted (edited)

Update: shot a level 2 over the weekend and while cleaning before the match I found that the striker wasn’t moving totally freely when depressing the striker safety plunger. I replaced the striker channel liner and now the striker moves freely. I haven’t been able to test CCIs again but I’d be willing to bet this was the issue. The striker may have been dragging enough to rob just enough energy from the striker to prevent ignition of CCIs but not Feds. The slide was cerakoted previously and I’ve heard the baking of the cerakote can cause issues with the striker channel liner if not removed and replaced. Live and learn. 

Edited by Helios

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13 hours ago, Helios said:

Update: shot a level 2 over the weekend and while cleaning before the match I found that the striker wasn’t moving totally freely when depressing the striker safety plunger. I replaced the striker channel liner and now the striker moves freely. I haven’t been able to test CCIs again but I’d be willing to bet this was the issue. The striker may have been dragging enough to rob just enough energy from the striker to prevent ignition of CCIs but not Feds. The slide was cerakoted previously and I’ve heard the baking of the cerakote can cause issues with the striker channel liner if not removed and replaced. Live and learn. 

 

If what you heard about the baking impacting the striker channel were true, it would seem responsible appliers of the cerakote should remove the channel liner beforehand. Why should the customer have to know about this and take pains to recover from it?

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I’m not totally sure, It’s still a bit of a guess on my part. I never used reduced striker springs in this gun before having the slide coated and it’s possible the liner was damaged in a way other than baking.

 

A friend had a gun coated by a reputable applicator (who I won’t name) that removed the channel liner, ostensibly for cerakoting and never replaced it. The slide was delivered back to its owner reassembled sans channel liner. Spoiler alert: the gun doesn’t function without the liner. 

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Had a buddy that was having light strike malfunctions, but way more often. Long story short, the tip of the striker had been worn down from it's normal triangular shape, to a rounded shape.

 

Might be worth comparing it to another known good striker. FWIW

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On 8/28/2019 at 6:23 AM, Helios said:

I’m not totally sure, It’s still a bit of a guess on my part. I never used reduced striker springs in this gun before having the slide coated and it’s possible the liner was damaged in a way other than baking.

 

A friend had a gun coated by a reputable applicator (who I won’t name) that removed the channel liner, ostensibly for cerakoting and never replaced it. The slide was delivered back to its owner reassembled sans channel liner. Spoiler alert: the gun doesn’t function without the liner. 

 

I damaged a liner in one of my Glocks with solvent. It was fine at first, but shrank a little bit over time so it was dragging on the striker. That one was never cerakoted or heated at all other than normal shooting. 

 

Also - I've used 4 and 4.5 lb springs in a bunch of my glocks, and when used with OEM strikers, all of them had light strikes with CCI primers sooner or later, but most of them were fine with Federal. I've gone back to stock striker springs for those since none of my Glocks are range-only guns. 

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