Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Failure to feed in Glock 34


Recommended Posts

Any time I've ever had a persistent FTF/FTE problem with a Glock, the solution had been to bump the load up. In my experience, Glocks run more reliably in the 135-138PF range.

I'll wait patiently for someone to tell me I'm wrong.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

8 hours ago, wtturn said:

Any time I've ever had a persistent FTF/FTE problem with a Glock, the solution had been to bump the load up. In my experience, Glocks run more reliably in the 135-138PF range.

I'll wait patiently for someone to tell me I'm wrong.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
 

 

You may be right with specific guns and configurations, but as a general statement for 9mm Glocks - yeah, that is an innacurate observation, especially with 124/125gr bullets as the OP is using. There are a number of things wrong with that claim:

- Power factor does not correlate to the minimum load needed to cycle across different bullet weights. For example in my stock G34, the following loads all cycle 100% reliably, even left hand only: 147gr @ 128 PF,  125gr @ 118 PF,  100gr @ 106 PF. Looking at actual power (i.e. muzzle energy) gives a more realistic correlation; all three of those loads are right about 250 ft-lb. 

- Different Glocks need different power levels for minimum function; a 17L needs a hotter load than a 19, which needs a hotter load than a 43, and that's without changing springs. There is no "one size fits all" power factor that Glocks need to function reliably. 

 

In my experience, if a Glock 34 needs the level of loads you guys are recommending, there's either something wrong with the gun or the shooter's grip. If it's the grip, the issue is rarely the partial feed the OP described, it's usually a failure to eject and/or stovepipes. The OP has clearly shown in his pictures that the gun has a mechanical problem; it may function right most of the time with hotter loads, but that's just masking the problem. 

 

With the 125gr bullets I use, my G34 is runs reliably with 2.9gr of Titegroup. 4.0gr is way above what it needs to cycle reliably. And that's in a gen 4 with stock springs. 

Edited by Yondering
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/3/2019 at 9:35 PM, looking4reloadingdeals said:

All I’d have to do is go back to the range with the weaker spring, I didn’t think about this until I got back from the range and read the replies. I may try that tomorrow when I try my factory ammo

 

Any updates L4RD?

 

For the record I have mostly loaded 124gr. FMJ RN for my Glock 17 & 34 and have not had any issues with 3.6gr. through 4.0gr. of Titegroup. OAL is 1.125. My large production runs have been with 3.8r. or 3.9gr. Runs flawlessly.

 

Looking forward to hearing the  latest info.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

May have been mentioned already but a coworker had similar issues as the optic screw was a tad long and would inadvertently rub and bind up the extractor plunger. Plunger actually got banged up quite a bit. If it was bound the extractor couldn't move enough to allow the cartridge to slide under all the way.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/11/2019 at 12:14 AM, wtturn said:

Any time I've ever had a persistent FTF/FTE problem with a Glock, the solution had been to bump the load up. In my experience, Glocks run more reliably in the 135-138PF range.

I'll wait patiently for someone to tell me I'm wrong.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
 

 

You’re wrong. 😮

 

Just kidding, but it’s the gun set up that determines reliability. I’ve seen Glocks with custom slides and barrels that ran terrible unless they had lubricants  dripping off them and stock ones that anything loaded in the mag blasted down range and the gun cycled. 

 

Basically as we play with springs and all that custom stuff we can “tune” them to run the way we want. That might require not using factory ammo. 

 

I do do think if the gun won’t cycle properly with a light low PF load (less than minor) something needs to be changed.

 

It’s a great hobby. 

Edited by HesedTech
Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, Falloutboy89 said:

 

Any updates L4RD?

 

For the record I have mostly loaded 124gr. FMJ RN for my Glock 17 & 34 and have not had any issues with 3.6gr. through 4.0gr. of Titegroup. OAL is 1.125. My large production runs have been with 3.8r. or 3.9gr. Runs flawlessly.

 

Looking forward to hearing the  latest info.

I went to the range a couple of times since then and have shot some Blazer 124 and some Tula 115 with absolutely no problems (probably 400+ rounds). I’ll probably end up shipping the slide back to Glock after talking to a rep about it. Said turn around is about 2 weeks and I would likely have to pay a small fee to have a new slide shipped to me. He didn’t say what the fee usually is, but I’m going to assume a couple hundred dollars maybe? As long as it’s more reasonable than the $450+ people are asking for g34 slides that’s likely what I’ll do and go from there

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, looking4reloadingdeals said:

I went to the range a couple of times since then and have shot some Blazer 124 and some Tula 115 with absolutely no problems (probably 400+ rounds). I’ll probably end up shipping the slide back to Glock after talking to a rep about it. Said turn around is about 2 weeks and I would likely have to pay a small fee to have a new slide shipped to me. He didn’t say what the fee usually is, but I’m going to assume a couple hundred dollars maybe? As long as it’s more reasonable than the $450+ people are asking for g34 slides that’s likely what I’ll do and go from there

So full power factory ammo works  perfect? i rest my case 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, Sandbagger123 said:

So full power factory ammo works  perfect? i rest my case 

 

Sure, that's excellent advice. Ignore the problems the gun has, and let's pretend it's normal for Glocks to not cycle milder loads. Let's also ignore that his gun did work fine before the breech face damage...

 

I'll say it again - if your G34 won't cycle with the OP's load, either you're limp wristing it or there's something wrong with the gun. Both can be fixed. 

 

The breech face damage the OP showed in his picture tells us everything we need to know about this malfunction, and completely explains why it happens. Using a hotter load forces the case to ride over the rough area, but that's just masking the problem. Using the factory spring with the OP's load may accomplish the same thing with less recoil. 

Edited by Yondering
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 
Sure, that's excellent advice. Ignore the problems the gun has, and let's pretend it's normal for Glocks to not cycle milder loads. Let's also ignore that his gun did work fine before the breech face damage...
 
I'll say it again - if your G34 won't cycle with the OP's load, either you're limp wristing it or there's something wrong with the gun. Both can be fixed. 
 
The breech face damage the OP showed in his picture tells us everything we need to know about this malfunction, and completely explains why it happens. Using a hotter load forces the case to ride over the rough area, but that's just masking the problem. Using the factory spring with the OP's load may accomplish the same thing with less recoil. 

I agree with this. Why mask a problem you know exists. I think the pitting is a problem, and I want to get it taken care of instead of just ignoring it.

I also agree with the fact that the load I was using should run my gun, as it did at one point but as the pitting got worse, the load failed to work. And no, I don’t limp wrist in the slightest, I got rid of that problem a long long time ago.

I appreciate all your help Yondering


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think you're right in returning the slide to Glock; if they'll replace it for a reasonable price, that's your best bet, and just chalk up the cost to a lesson learned on bad primers. (Same as many of us did with Winchester.)

 

However, if the replacement cost is more than you want to spend, you may be able to smooth the sharp edges on that damage enough to get it working right again. (I wouldn't do this before returning it to Glock, it'd probably change the way they respond to you.) I would use a pointed cratex (rubber abrasive) tip on a dremel and attempt to carefully polish & smooth the sharp edges in that damage without touching the rest of the breech face. Keep in mind though - a dremel is a really fast and easy way to ruin a gun, so be careful and don't do it unless you're confident in your skill & ability. 

 

You could also try just going back to the factory recoil spring and continuing to use the same load. It may work acceptably well; you just won't get the benefits of the lighter spring but that's still less recoil than moving up to a hotter load.

 

Hope that helps. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think you're right in returning the slide to Glock; if they'll replace it for a reasonable price, that's your best bet, and just chalk up the cost to a lesson learned on bad primers. (Same as many of us did with Winchester.)
 
However, if the replacement cost is more than you want to spend, you may be able to smooth the sharp edges on that damage enough to get it working right again. (I wouldn't do this before returning it to Glock, it'd probably change the way they respond to you.) I would use a pointed cratex (rubber abrasive) tip on a dremel and attempt to carefully polish & smooth the sharp edges in that damage without touching the rest of the breech face. Keep in mind though - a dremel is a really fast and easy way to ruin a gun, so be careful and don't do it unless you're confident in your skill & ability. 
 
You could also try just going back to the factory recoil spring and continuing to use the same load. It may work acceptably well; you just won't get the benefits of the lighter spring but that's still less recoil than moving up to a hotter load.
 
Hope that helps. 

Yondering,
I actually tried the factory spring, and upped my ISMI spring from 11lbs to 20 lbs and saw a small difference, but was still having problems with it, that’s what’s convinced me to send the slide back.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...