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Titan Trimmer Cutter: Dillon's fit? Boring Bar?


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Hi All, 

I got a Titan Trimmer adapter year or two ago because I'm a woodworker and have the bosch 1617 router. I got it to convert 223 to blackout in a single pass and to utilize my case feeder when trimming 223, 308, and blackout. 

That said, it's been 2 years and Titan's website sucks for info. I remember the endmill it came with was ok, nothing special. 

I'd like to upgrade to a boring bar or the dillon cutter, will that work in the Titan? 

Honey Badger sells their boring bar with an extra insert for $140, which seems high. 

I'm not a high volume shooter by any means and my 650 is manually operated. Couldn't imagine I'd process more than a couple 300-500 pieces of brass at a time. Maybe a just using a better endmill is what I need. 

I was hoping to get a cleaner and somewhat chamfered cut with a boring bar. 

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I found out which boring bar that honey badger uses and bought one from somewhere else. Cheapest I found it was 90 bucks. And you have to cut it down to length. I don’t know anything about machining, so I didn’t know how to read or measure inserts, so I bought one of honey badgers for 20$. So all in all it wasn’t a whole lot cheaper. Inserts are like 5$ elsewhere if you know what one you need. The boring bar does make better cut, no real chamfering though. I use an M die to flare the neck, and that will remove the inside burr, and a Lee FCD will remove the outside burr. So not really an issue IMO. My biggest issue was the mass amount of brass shavings clogging up the trimming die, vacuum manifold, and vacuum hose. The boring bar has a chip breaker so the shavings are smaller, I also plumbed in PVC pipe instead of vacuum hose. Seems to work great now. This is on a mark 7 650 so the feed rate is probably higher than manual press, but I would think that the shavings could still be an issue. They would actually clog up the trim die and the router would pull to much juice and trip the 15 amp circuit breaker.


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1 hour ago, cvincent said:

I found out which boring bar that honey badger uses and bought one from somewhere else. Cheapest I found it was 90 bucks. And you have to cut it down to length. I don’t know anything about machining, so I didn’t know how to read or measure inserts, so I bought one of honey badgers for 20$. So all in all it wasn’t a whole lot cheaper. Inserts are like 5$ elsewhere if you know what one you need. The boring bar does make better cut, no real chamfering though. I use an M die to flare the neck, and that will remove the inside burr, and a Lee FCD will remove the outside burr. So not really an issue IMO. My biggest issue was the mass amount of brass shavings clogging up the trimming die, vacuum manifold, and vacuum hose. The boring bar has a chip breaker so the shavings are smaller, I also plumbed in PVC pipe instead of vacuum hose. Seems to work great now. This is on a mark 7 650 so the feed rate is probably higher than manual press, but I would think that the shavings could still be an issue. They would actually clog up the trim die and the router would pull to much juice and trip the 15 amp circuit breaker.


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If you can remember the place you got it that would awesome! I emailed Titan, well messaged them on facebook, and they said any boring bar 3 3/4" long would work and whatever diameter my chuck is. I have both 1/4" and 1/2" collets and can always buy the 3/8" collect. 

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  • 1 month later...
  • 8 months later...
On 6/22/2019 at 11:49 AM, cvincent said:

I found out which boring bar that honey badger uses and bought one from somewhere else. Cheapest I found it was 90 bucks. And you have to cut it down to length. I don’t know anything about machining, so I didn’t know how to read or measure inserts, so I bought one of honey badgers for 20$. So all in all it wasn’t a whole lot cheaper. Inserts are like 5$ elsewhere if you know what one you need. The boring bar does make better cut, no real chamfering though. I use an M die to flare the neck, and that will remove the inside burr, and a Lee FCD will remove the outside burr. So not really an issue IMO. My biggest issue was the mass amount of brass shavings clogging up the trimming die, vacuum manifold, and vacuum hose. The boring bar has a chip breaker so the shavings are smaller, I also plumbed in PVC pipe instead of vacuum hose. Seems to work great now. This is on a mark 7 650 so the feed rate is probably higher than manual press, but I would think that the shavings could still be an issue. They would actually clog up the trim die and the router would pull to much juice and trip the 15 amp circuit breaker.


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Do you have an updated link for the boring bar

Edited by matt111
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  • 1 month later...

I checked my message from Titan Weapons who makes the Titan trimmer, similar to the honey badger. 

 

They said any boring bar 3 3/4" in length and whatever collet the router has. My collet is 1/2" or 1/4".  

 

I found this boring bar that uses a 1/2" collet, is 3 3/4" long and takes triangle carbide inserts for under $60. I'm thinking about trying it. The endmill I was using I don't recall did a great job. 

 

https://www.wttool.com/index/page/product/product_id/32393/category_id/13970/product_name/APT+Super-Lok+Boring+Bars

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  • 3 weeks later...

Update. The boring bar above doesn’t work. The carbide insert hits the inside wall of the trim die. Appears the total width needs to be around .450-.465.  Not sure I’ll be able to find a boring bar with those dimensions. Basically it needs to hold carbide insert in the center of the boring bar to make it easier. The boring bars with an offset carbide insert I don’t think will work. 
 

I messaged the seller selling the brass muncher bar to get some Info I’m him. My titan trimmer needs a longer bar. 

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