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Walt S

Comp-iii Modification

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Someone wrote an arcticle (I believe) about modifying the COMP-III speed loaders to make for a faster load. Does anyone know how I can get a copy of that info, what web-site it might have been on, etc. <_<

Thanks

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Walt;

Do a search on the forum, I remember seeing it here somewhere. Some of the Pin and Steel shooters used to do this before moon clips really took over. It basically entails taking the speedloader apart and sanding the round body of the speedloader (the part that goes around the heads of the rounds and contains the spring loaded plunger that shoots the rounds into the chambers) down so that it doesn't interfere with the cylinder all that much. I have one Comp III that's modified this way, I got it when I bought the gun that went with it. It was Herb Beck's gun, I know that 10mm Dave knows him, so maybe he can give you more details. Mike Carmoney was a Second Chance regular, he might have run across this back then as well. Guys?

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Maybe Bubber can chime in here, He told me how to do it. I did mine with a cutting tool on my Dremel instead of taking them apart. They work good. :D

Bill Nesbitt

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Mike Carmoney was a Second Chance regular, he might have run across this back then as well.  Guys?

Other than the 8-pin mandatory reload event, where moonclips have always reigned supreme (except for Jerry, who used HKS speedloaders with his M27 in his pre-sponsored shooting days), pin shooters don't reload their revolvers--they just dump them in a drop box and grab the back-up revolver off the rail. New York reload.

Bill's right--Bubber knows all about this. He emailed me some fuzzy photos showing this process maybe a year ago, but I don't have them on the hard drive anymore. If I remember correctly, there's even a way to do it without taking the Comp IIIs apart.....

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Walt. I get the process down on a word doc and e-mail to you as soon as I get it done. It takes longer to explain the process than actually doing it. rdd

E-mail sent but could not get the pictures to go with it. :angry: let me know if there are any questions.

If anybody else is interested and can tell me how to put the word dock at this place let me know and I'll try. rdd

Edited by Bubber

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Walt.  I get the process down on a word doc and e-mail to you as soon as I get it done.  It takes longer to explain the process than actually doing it. rdd

E-mail sent but could not get the pictures to go with it.  :angry:  let me know if there are any questions.

If anybody else is interested and can tell me how to put the word dock at this place let me know and I'll try. rdd

Cut and paste into a post. I would really like to see it. If you e mail it to me I will post it.

Regards,

Gary

Round_Gun_Shooter@comcast.net

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The process is this:  With the Safariland comp III’s have a two piece top with a pin hole on one side.  Heat a straightened paperclip and push it through the existing hole to mark the other side and drill a small hole back to the steel roll pin.  The Jet loaders have the hole all the way through.  Push the roll pin through the hole and remove the top so that the shroud and large coil spring can be removed.  Toss the shroud, I don’t know why t is there in the first place.

In the center of the loader is another pin, push it out carefully as there a small coil spring in the trigger mechanism.  This should allow you to separate the part that the rounds fit into from the rest.  Using a belt sander, or similar device, remove the part down to about .3 of inch

Use an exacto knife or similar to remove the plastic that will fill the holes where the rounds fit. 

And then reassemble paying attention to the right tension of the coil spring  before putting the top back on.  I would disassemble and work on only one at a time until you get confident with the process.

Bill used a dremel and cut the parts down with a cutoff  wheel.  I could not keep the surface flat and it will take several wheels to do the job.

When completed there is usually a hole in the trigger mechanism that I fill with epoxy or a steel pin to engage that much sooner.

Let me know if you have any questions.  rdd

Bubber

How's that Bubber?? You can explain what pics go where in the description.

Gary

post-2631-1126354326_thumb.jpg

post-2631-1126354358_thumb.jpg

post-2631-1126354372_thumb.jpg

Edited by Round_Gun_Shooter

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The process is this:  With the Safariland comp III’s have a two piece top with a pin hole on one side.  Heat a straightened paperclip and push it through the existing hole to mark the other side and drill a small hole back to the steel roll pin.  The Jet loaders have the hole all the way through.  Push the roll pin through the hole and remove the top so that the shroud and large coil spring can be removed.  Toss the shroud, I don’t know why t is there in the first place.

In the center of the loader is another pin, push it out carefully as there a small coil spring in the trigger mechanism.  This should allow you to separate the part that the rounds fit into from the rest.  Using a belt sander, or similar device, remove the part down to about .3 of inch

:)  Picture 3 goes here showing the part that gets taken down Notice the two lines drawn. :) 

Use an exacto knife or similar to remove the plastic that will fill the holes where the rounds fit. 

And then reassemble paying attention to the right tension of the coil spring  before putting the top back on.  I would disassemble and work on only one at a time until you get confident with the process.

Bill used a dremel and cut the parts down with a cutoff  wheel.  I could not keep the surface flat and it will take several wheels to do the job.

When completed there is usually a hole in the trigger mechanism that I fill with epoxy or a steel pin to engage that much sooner.

:o    Picture two is trying to show the hole tat has been filled with epoxy on the trigger mechanism.

:ph34r: Picture 1 is what the finished product shoul resemble. :

Let me know if you have any questions.  rdd

Thanx Gary see if may directions are as clear as mud now,

Bubber

How's that Bubber?? You can explain what pics go where in the description.

Gary

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Guys, one other note is that you will have to use loading blocks to load the CompIII's once they are cut down. Most shooters already have a block or two. rdd

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"Bill used a dremel and cut the parts down with a cutoff  wheel.  I could not keep the surface flat and it will take several wheels to do the job."

Uhoh. It sounds like these things were supposed to be pretty when I was done. :lol:

I clamped the complete assembled loader in the vise and used a Dremel cut off wheel to remove the excess plastic. I didn't take them apart. The wheel gums up with the burnt plastic so I used a new wheel for each loader. I cleaned things up somewhat with a file after I was done. Warning!!! Do not do this in the living room with your wife watching. :D It's a little messy. ;)

I left enough of the rim of the loader to just hold the rim of the round.

I also filled the hole in the end of the loader that contacts the ejector on the gun with epoxy. That hole would hang up on the pin coming out of the ejector star and hang up my reloads, :unsure:

I cut down a loading block to only 4 positions so it is easier to carry in my shooting bag.

Bill Nesbitt

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Guys, one other note is that you will have to use loading blocks to load the CompIII's once they are cut down.  Most shooters already have a block or two. rdd

:blink: WOW, I didn't expect some much feedback. What a great forum. Thanks one and all. Bubber, I got your second e-mail with clear pictures. As soon as I get a few more loadrs (in the event I screw up the ones I have) I'll cut one down and see how it works. I"LL PROVIDE FEED BACK TO THE FORUM ONCE I DO THAT. Walt

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Update on this subject -

A buddy of mine showed me some cut down Comp 3's the other night that had a piece of aluminum in the end of the shaft that contacts the star. I've never seen this before but it seemed to help. Anyone seen anything on this?

Guess I should have read Bubber's instructions!

Edited by COF

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Bubber, send me that word document and I'll turn it into a pdf. file and post it here for all to download.

GLENWHITF@aol.com

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Bubber, send me that word document and I'll turn it into a pdf. file and post it here for all to download.

GLENWHITF@aol.com

Read post #7 That is the word file :)

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If you take the Comp III's completely apart you can use a belt sander to remove the excess plastic, but be careful. You will then needs an exacto knife to remove the melted plastic from around the holes where the cartridge rims go. Also, Bubbuer, we took our Comp III's down to .130 to .150 thick, that is why we need to use loading blocks.

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"When completed there is usually a hole in the trigger mechanism that I fill with epoxy or a steel pin to engage that much sooner."

Which hole is that? The one that contacts the ejector?

Edited by Duster

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"When completed there is usually a hole in the trigger mechanism that I fill with epoxy or a steel pin to engage that much sooner."

Which hole is that? The one that contacts the ejector?

Duster You are correct. Some of the Jet Loaders don't have the hole there but all of the Safariland Comp III's I've seen have it.

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Bubber, what do you use to hold the steel pin in place? I founs some steel rivets at the hardware store that slide in but they're a little loose. I tried using some model cement to hold them - didn't work. Any suggestions?

Jerry

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Bubber, what do you use to hold the steel pin in place? I founs some steel rivets at the hardware store that slide in but they're a little loose. I tried using some model cement to hold them - didn't work. Any suggestions?

Jerry

Jerry, The ones that I have the steel in I just happened to get the right size pin. The steel pins have to be a snug fit but you might try some liquid steel epoxy. I use the epoxy to fill the hole by itself most of the time as it is easier than finding the right size steel pin. Hopefully this may help.

ETA. You may have luck using a small bolt to screw into the hole, I have also done that. Just make sure if the plastic is expanded out some to reform to the original diameter by sanding to ensure it will function.

Edited by Bubber

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Howdy,

Long time lurker, signed up today. I've been shooting mostly SSR since Q406 and have been toying with the idea of doing this mod to my comp III's for some time but nobody I shoot with has done it, or has even seen it, so I hesitated.

Today, I decided, what the heck, I'll give it a go on just one. Went slow, cut as straight as I could, filled the center hole with liquid steel and let it dry. Well, I just finished putting it back together and trying it with dummy rounds. It's like free time! Holy moly! Need to try it with live ammo and a shot timer but it FEELS a LOT faster. :wub:

Just the little bit of motivation I was craving before the TX state IDPA championship this weekend. :lol:

Thanks!

Gary Jones

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Howdy,

Long time lurker, signed up today. I've been shooting mostly SSR since Q406 and have been toying with the idea of doing this mod to my comp III's for some time but nobody I shoot with has done it, or has even seen it, so I hesitated.

Today, I decided, what the heck, I'll give it a go on just one. Went slow, cut as straight as I could, filled the center hole with liquid steel and let it dry. Well, I just finished putting it back together and trying it with dummy rounds. It's like free time! Holy moly! Need to try it with live ammo and a shot timer but it FEELS a LOT faster. :wub:

Just the little bit of motivation I was craving before the TX state IDPA championship this weekend. :lol:

Thanks!

Gary Jones

Gary, Glad it works for you, and welcome to the forums. rdd

Edited by Bubber

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