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Clint007

M&P 2.0 slide lock lever fracture

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Anyone have this happen?

 

I’ve been shooting a comp-tuned 2.0 5 inch in IDPA for several years. Unlike the 1.0 the 2.0 does not auto forward for me. And so I used the slide lock button to drop the slide after a reload, for speed in competition.

Not long ago my slide lock lever assembly cracked....very close to the place where the lock button actuates movement of the assembly.  Looked like an intuitively weak part of the assembly, knowing where I put pressure down on the button during reloads.  It’s my judgment that after LOTS of reloads this way, metal fatigue tools its toll.

 

Yes, this is a faster reload. Yes, it’s not really designed for this function. Yes, if you do this many times, it’ll probably break. No idea when. My advice is to not do it for SD training because it’s a less reliable way (compared to sling shooting) to put the gun into battery. And because you will be weakening that part over time and it’ll break and your gun will probably do what mine did at that event...lock back open despite a full mag and not work thereafter. 

M&P does not sell this as an individual part. They refused to one-off sell me one when I explained the problem. Not real happy with the reply. It’s a simple part....They want the entire gun sent to them. Instead, for now, I have just swapped out that part from a 2.0 4.25” frame I have. It’s the same part. When I’m done with my competition goals with this 2.0 I’ll send the whole gun in and hopefully they can swap out a new part.  They will probably charge me and say it was negligence on my part for using the slide lock button incorrectly.

Clint in Scottsdale AZ

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The tabs on my 40 M&P Pro 5  slide lock have been missing for two years - I shoot limited about 5K rounds per year. At this past weekend’s USPSA match, the slide lock fractured in the exact place yours did.  I had a partial jam, did a mag change, dropping the fractured piece of metal out, and continued on the stage And finished the match. Although not a necessary piece, I will be replacing it later this week. Note that the  slide lock is available for purchase - at least for Gen 1 pistols - check Brownells. Best of luck with it. 

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Ditto. 1.0 pro

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Posted (edited)

You can Install and  slide lock lever from a 1.0 and it will even auto forward. 

You have to file on the back of it so it doesn’t engage the detent on the new 2.0 frame. 

Edited by jpm2953

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Posted (edited)

Yep.  It happened on both a "1.0" .40SW pro 5" and a "1.0" .40SW compact for me.  Sad if they haven't fixed it with the 2.0.  I doubt they will charge you anything to repair it.  They sent me shipping labels and replaced them free of charge.  Annoying to have the guns gone for a month, but oh well.  I would estimate that it happens around the 10000 round mark.  I'm not sure if using the slide release function at the end of reloads or the force of stopping the slide for last round hold open that causes them to break.

 

I would be interested to know if the ones that are breaking are other .40's or 9's.  Maybe it is part of the reason they went to the weaker green recoil spring on 9mm's after a period of time?

Edited by narwhal

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Thank you. Another poster on the M&P forum shared the purchase option also. It is odd that Smith and Wes and refused to sell me one but aftermarket companies apparently are selling a factory original specimen.  I’m happy to pay $20 to avoid having the gun gone for weeks-months.

 

 I never knew the slide locks were interchangeable between 1.0 and 2.0. I will try that. I do miss the auto forward feature.  

 

C

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20 hours ago, jpm2953 said:

You can Install and  slide lock lever from a 1.0 and it will even auto forward. 

You have to file on the back of it so it doesn’t engage the detent on the new 2.0 frame. 

 

But will it function normally otherwise...for example locking slide back on empty mag, and remaining open after manual lock back?

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56 minutes ago, Clint007 said:

 

But will it function normally otherwise...for example locking slide back on empty mag, and remaining open after manual lock back?

Yep. Works perfect. Just need to file the inside of the thumb tab that contacts the new detent. Takes 5 min. 

 

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3 hours ago, jpm2953 said:

Yep. Works perfect. Just need to file the inside of the thumb tab that contacts the new detent. Takes 5 min. 

 

Ok I actually had some time and swapped the parts...but I can’t get the slide fully on the frame now, with the 1.0 lock installed. This must be the needed file job?   Could I beg some photos to guide me?

 

c

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7 hours ago, Clint007 said:

Ok I actually had some time and swapped the parts...but I can’t get the slide fully on the frame now, with the 1.0 lock installed. This must be the needed file job?   Could I beg some photos to guide me?

 

c

Is the slide stop pushed all the way down? It will almost click in place until you file the back of the tab down. 

 

You can can also remove the detent mechanism. I’m out of town right now but I’ll get some when I get back home. There is a YouTube video I’ll link here too 

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this explains it as well

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3 hours ago, jpm2953 said:

Is the slide stop pushed all the way down? It will almost click in place until you file the back of the tab down. 

 

You can can also remove the detent mechanism. I’m out of town right now but I’ll get some when I get back home. There is a YouTube video I’ll link here too 

 

Thank you.

 

I see he has the 1.0 slide and 1.0  slide lock lever atop the 2.0 frame. Is that what you meant...using a 1.0 lock and 1.0 frame to replicate the auto-forward?  

 

My 2.0 trigger job has the slide’s striker block mod more or less mated to matching frame mods....so I am restricted to using this 2.0 slide and this 2.0 frame. Even a different unmodified 2.0 slide doesn’t work right on this tuned 2.0 frame now. It’s one of Burwell’s test trigger jobs on a 2.0.....which I don’t think he is doing anymore...

 

Or are you using a 2.0 slide and 2.0 frame with the modified 1.0 slide lock? 

 

Just so I know before I start filing the inside of that button....

 

Thanks again

 

C

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I’ve done it both ways. I’ve put my Core slide on my 2.0 frame and the 2.0 slide on the 2.0 frame. I’m unfamiliar with your trigger work. All of mine have the apex kit 

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Posted (edited)

This is pretty common. I had one break on M&P45, although in a different place, at about 5k rounds. S&W sent replacement part free of charge. They initially offered to send them the gun, but it's an easy part swap so I did it myself.

Edited by lstange
typo

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I have encountered numerous parts breakages on M&P 1.0 match guns (not enough mileage on my 2.0s yet). Rather than send my (extensively modified) gun in to S&W, I bought the needed parts from Brownells then, after changing out the part, I sent the old broken part in to S&W with a written request for a replacement under warranty. In every case they sent me the replacement free of charge. I just keep the replacement on-hand for the next time the gun breaks. Rinse and repeat.

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