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rowdyb

p-10F issue

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I had my P-10C for so short a time I can't remember if I had this issue with it as well but....... here we go. I want the gun as I can shoot it in Prod/CO and SSP/CO. In uspsa I do very few slide lock reloads (slr). But in IDPA I might do one every stage. They are definitely a common occurrence.

 

But I absolutely can not depress the slide release in ANY condition with my right thumb. (Right handed) The only way I can reload the gun from slidelock is to release the slide with my left hand. Yes, it get's the job done but it is measurably slower. And I do not want to be giving away 0.50 seconds at least every stage.

 

My thoughts, first the recoil spring is exerting a lot of pressure on the breech face, pulling it forward into where the two interface. Lighten the recoil spring and this force should lessen. Stock is 20#. I have the 18# and 15# coming.

 

Secondly, I can give the slide stop a small amount of work to smooth the transition. I think this could lead to the gun autoforwarding and I'm not sure I am OK with that.

 

Third, I could buy the $90 extended slide release from CZC.

 

Of the people here with more mileage and time on the P10, and especially those who would do a slr, what has been your experience?

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Mine is just a few days old. 

 

With no magazine in the pistol, I can easily drop the slide, using my dominant right thumb, to depress the slide stop. With an empty magazine in the pistol, I can not depress the slide stop. With a magazine in with live ammo, or a snap cap, I can easily depress the  slide stop with my dominant thumb. 

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I can put full force on the lever with my dominant thumb and nothing happens. Loaded, unloaded mag. Mag in or out.

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I have about 3k through my P10C. It never loosened up so I helped it with some 800-2k grit. I run a #18 spring that loosened it up a little as well.

 

I almost bought the CZC release, but for $90 ill weld and shape a tab onto the release. 

 

For the record, I shoot a Gen 5 G34 now and honestly I really enjoy it. Ive got the trigger near the p10C (with HBI), for not a whole lot of money too.

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, nick779 said:

Gen 5 G34

Trust me, that has crossed my mind. The fact that I have a P10 in the safe already makes me start there in this experiment. But as I get frustrated looking for parts and dealing with this kind of control issue a G34 does seem like a very viable option.

 

I did order the CZC one for $90 dollars.... I am reshaping the stock part as well. Aaaand I have 15 and 18 pound springs coming as well.

Edited by rowdyb

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That would make me angry too, but i thought on p10´s you could slam the mag in and  the slide goes forward.

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I just put together a P-10F OR to dabble in the CO arena after the area match next month assuming I get to go. I’ve put through maybe a few hundred rounds and the slide lock is actually improved for me. Though I find that if I slap the mag in hard enough, the slide flies forward most of the time.

 

Seeing as how I just got this together this last week, I haven’t tried much yet.

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15 hours ago, rowdyb said:

I had my P-10C for so short a time I can't remember if I had this issue with it as well but....... here we go. I want the gun as I can shoot it in Prod/CO and SSP/CO. In uspsa I do very few slide lock reloads (slr). But in IDPA I might do one every stage. They are definitely a common occurrence.

 

But I absolutely can not depress the slide release in ANY condition with my right thumb. (Right handed) The only way I can reload the gun from slidelock is to release the slide with my left hand. Yes, it get's the job done but it is measurably slower. And I do not want to be giving away 0.50 seconds at least every stage.

 

My thoughts, first the recoil spring is exerting a lot of pressure on the breech face, pulling it forward into where the two interface. Lighten the recoil spring and this force should lessen. Stock is 20#. I have the 18# and 15# coming.

 

Secondly, I can give the slide stop a small amount of work to smooth the transition. I think this could lead to the gun autoforwarding and I'm not sure I am OK with that.

 

Third, I could buy the $90 extended slide release from CZC.

 

Of the people here with more mileage and time on the P10, and especially those who would do a slr, what has been your experience?


Getcha some man hands 😉, do a bit of sanding or buy the release. The P10F I shot wasn't terribly stiff but it was stout. We obviously have different size hands but I had no issues getting it pressed. 

Why are you not OK with autoforward? It's a bonus feature I like to have. I obviously train to forward the slide with the release. Having the auto forward happen in a match nothing changes as the thumb is still depressing the release. 

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Auto forwarding works great right up until

it does not, and you get a stoppage. 

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1 hour ago, Darqusoull13 said:

Why are you not OK with autoforward? It's a bonus feature

My problem is not with it happening, but rather when people rely on it exclusively. As the only desired end state of slamming a mag home with the slide back. That I can not support. The analogy I use for those people is if you could lock your car door 95% of the time by slamming it would you? or would you rather press the button on the door or the fob? A match isn't parking your car in the garage, a match is parking in a bad part of town. So when you want to 'lock the door' aka release the slide you press the button designed for the function, don't slam the door.

 

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1 hour ago, GJM said:

Auto forwarding works great right up until

it does not, and you get a stoppage. 

 

This. It was always unreliable for me and I hated not having a smooth, reliable slide release.

 

Poorly designed and executed controls can break someones experience shooting anything. 

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, bimmer1980 said:

but i thought on p10´s you could slam the mag in and  the slide goes forward

the slide to lock interaction is different than on other guns. On the P10 it is activated by the follower hitting the release's arm just like most other guns. But instead of putting a tab of the lever up into the rail of the slide in puts one in front of the breech face, in line with the firing pin hole. So this tab is at the end of a long arm and directly in line with the most force in opposition from the recoil spring. Much more force, longer distances and more right angles at interface than what you would think of as a tradiional way to lock the slide open.

Edited by rowdyb

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Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, nick779 said:

I have about 3k through my P10C. It never loosened up so I helped it with some 800-2k grit. I run a #18 spring that loosened it up a little as well.

 

I almost bought the CZC release, but for $90 ill weld and shape a tab onto the release. 

 

For the record, I shoot a Gen 5 G34 now and honestly I really enjoy it. Ive got the trigger near the p10C (with HBI), for not a whole lot of money too.

Here is my trip down P-10 slide release hell. I have two P-10 Cs.  Both slide releases were tight as a tick when new, as well as, having horrible mag releases.   No amount of reprofiling or polishing helped, but replacing with the Apex mag release did the trick.  The single side mag release on new issues has cured that problem.  But, I digress.  Back to the slide release.

 

I handled a G34 gen 5 one day and couldn't believe how easy it was to drop a mag.  It was like Glock used my hands to design the slide release.  I bought one a few days later and then embarked on the trip down Glock trigger hell.  I put an Apex trigger, trigger bar and connector on it.  It is better but still nothing like the HBI trigger on my second P-10 C.  By this time my first P-10 C had loosened up enough to be tolerable.  But, my second P-10 C which has the HBI trigger and which I shoot the best had a slide release just as Rowdy describes.  I began repeated slide drops without rounds or snap caps in the magazine.  At first, I had to use two hands on the slide release.  I kept working it until I could drop it with one hand, as well as, many trips to the range.  It now has loosened up pretty well and I shot an IDPA style  match with it last Saturday and did not feel hindered by my slide lock reloads. On one occasion it even autoforwarded.  So, you ask why didn't I just shoot the G34 and forget the P-10 C and now the P-10 F I just received?  Because I  shoot the P-10 C better.  It feels better and I have more confidence with it.  The trigger is crisper and has a faster reset and less pre-travel.  Since I don't shoot USPSA I don't need the 19 round capacity of the P-10F and I find the F's grip a little unwieldy, so sometimes I put the F slide on the C frame and I have a very quick gun with less muzzle flip.  I really like the combination.

 

So back to how to break in the slide release.  For me, it just took a lot of dropping the slide, over and over.  Plus a lot of shooting. 

Edited by fastlane604

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2 minutes ago, fastlane604 said:

Here is my trip down P-10 slide release hell. I have two P-10 Cs.  Both slide releases were tight as a tick when new, as well as, having horrible mag releases.   No amount of reprofiling or polishing helped, but replacing with the Apex mag release did the trick.  The single side mag release on new issues has cured that problem.  But, I digress.  Back to the slide release.

 

I handled a G34 gen 5 one day and couldn't believe how easy it was to drop a mag.  It was like Glock used my hands to design the slide release.  I bought one a few days later and then embarked on the trip down Glock trigger hell.  I put an Apex trigger, trigger bar and connector on it.  It is better but still nothing like the HBI trigger on my second P-10 C.  By this time my first P-10 C had loosened up enough to be tolerable.  But, my second P-10 C which has the HBI trigger and which I shoot the best had a slide release just as Rowdy describes.  I begin repeated slide drops without rounds or snap caps in the magazine.  At first, I had to use two hands on the slide release.  I kept working it until I could drop it with one hand, as well as, many trips to the range.  It now has loosened up pretty well and I shot an IDPA style  match with it last Saturday and did not feel hindered by my slide lock reloads. On one occasion it even autoforwarded.  So, you ask why didn't I just shoot the G34 and forget the P-10 C and now the P-10 F I just received?  Because I  shoot the P-10 C better.  It feels better and I have more confidence with it.  The trigger is crisper and has a faster reset and less pre-travel.  Since I don't shoot USPSA I don't need the 19 round capacity of the P-10F and I find the F's grip a little unwieldy, so sometimes I put the F slide on the C frame and I have a very quick gun with less muzzle flip.  I really like the combination.

 

So back to how to break in the slide release.  For me, it just took a lot of dropping the slide, over and over.  Plus a lot of shooting. 

 

I shot my P10C in USPSA Production. I had to grind down the mag basepads so they didnt pinch my pinky. Ran fine. Mag release is still tough to actuate and ive reprofiled it, polished it and grease it regularly. NONE of my other pistols have had releases that were this stiff, NONE of them. They were all 20-40% more expensive though. Springfields get so much hate, but after looking inside a CZ, they visually look better built and everything is smooth, trigger is meh out of the box though. The Shield was ok, nothing terrible or great there.

 

I dont know why or how, but my G34.5 is a tack driver out to the 30 yards im capable of freehanding. I initially swapped to a TTI GM kit & connector, but the rolling break feels so incredibly long and slow. The dot connector feels VERY similar to my P10C, and im going to try a standard #5 connector tonight.

 

I just find it comical that I always said id never own a Glock, but here we are.

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My P10F after north of 2000 rounds and a #15 recoil spring is still very hard to operate the slide release. I don't think time and a lighter spring is the answer.

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1 hour ago, dr_boone said:

My P10F after north of 2000 rounds and a #15 recoil spring is still very hard to operate the slide release. I don't think time and a lighter spring is the answer.

 

I understand and I feel your pain.  I bought a G34 because of it.  But, spend 30 minutes dropping the slide over and over and see if it doesn't help some.

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I took a diamond file and 2k grit sand paper to mine. it actually works right now. But I would be a liar if I didn't say I hadn't also looked at a gen5 G34 mos. Both guns need new sights. Both guns get new springs and triggers. Both would get basepads on mags. So there has to be something you like more about one over the other. I happened to have a Czech made P10f in the safe, so it is an easy initial start for me. But we'll see....

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Posted (edited)

I just wanted to add to this for anyone that comes across it later looking for info. I polished (heavily polished) the contact points on my P10F and took the sharp edges off the slide stop itself. I’ve got ~500 rounds thru mine and a lot of dry fire. With the polishing and sharp edge removal, I can now drop the slide on a full mag with zero issues just as I would on any other pistol. It is slightly stiffer on a empty mag or no mag at all, but nothing at all like it used to be previously. 

Edited by Trevor300wsm

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Agreed. I reshaped and polished the edge where it hits the breach face as well. Made a huge difference. Before I sold this gun I put the extened CZC release in and it worked very well as well.

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On 5/16/2019 at 8:04 PM, rowdyb said:

I had my P-10C for so short a time I can't remember if I had this issue with it as well but....... here we go. I want the gun as I can shoot it in Prod/CO and SSP/CO. In uspsa I do very few slide lock reloads (slr). But in IDPA I might do one every stage. They are definitely a common occurrence.

 

But I absolutely can not depress the slide release in ANY condition with my right thumb. (Right handed) The only way I can reload the gun from slidelock is to release the slide with my left hand. Yes, it get's the job done but it is measurably slower. And I do not want to be giving away 0.50 seconds at least every stage.

 

My thoughts, first the recoil spring is exerting a lot of pressure on the breech face, pulling it forward into where the two interface. Lighten the recoil spring and this force should lessen. Stock is 20#. I have the 18# and 15# coming.

 

Secondly, I can give the slide stop a small amount of work to smooth the transition. I think this could lead to the gun autoforwarding and I'm not sure I am OK with that.

 

Third, I could buy the $90 extended slide release from CZC.

 

Of the people here with more mileage and time on the P10, and especially those who would do a slr, what has been your experience?

Rowdy is the F guide rod the same as the 09?

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2 hours ago, Jeff O said:

Rowdy is the F guide rod the same as the 09?

The 09 is slightly longer. You have to trim just a bit off of it. Or call Cajun and they will make you one.....they just do the cutting instead of you. 

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I picked up my P10F this last Monday and have 500 rounds thru it so far. One malfunction of bolt-over-base that was probably my thumb dragging on the slide. Other than that, no problems. Dropping slide on full mags is a tiny bit stiff but no real issue. On empty mags, nearly impossible. I’ve purchased optic plates for both the Shield RMR and the Vortex Viper and installed, zeroed, and tested both. For me, I’m gonna stick with the Shield for a bit because I can completely co-witness the dot and both front and rear irons with ease. The Viper completely blocks the rear sight and is a total PITA to zero with the  rear sight installed. I basically had to bolt on, shoot a group, unbolt adjust, rebolt, shoot, etc etc. If I ran the Viper I’d take the  rear sight off. 

 

Right now, my only complaint is the trigger. It sucks. Long, heavy, and gritty. I’ll keep dry firing it and live fire testing but MUCH prefer my Glock 34 with Ghost 3.5 connector. Anyway, hope this helps anyone’s looking at this model. Lots of potential. 

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