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So I tried a search and didn’t get much, so here we go. What’s everyone using for a lubricant on their PCC’s? I’m currently using Lucas on everything I shoot, I really like it. Unfortunately yesterday I was shooting a knock down steel match and on the last stage (5) the gun quit, the bolt had a ton of carbon built up. This was my first match with the gun, the gun was cleaned & lubed earlier in the week. On Friday before the match I Chrono’d a few different loads and checked zero (less than 30rnds), I did not re-lube before the match yesterday. Are blow back style PCC’s like 2011 open guns where you gotta put a ton of lube on them?

 

im shooting a coated bullet (switching to Precision Delta JHP, they haven’t arrived yet), with 4.0g of VV N320. 

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Posted (edited)

Im not running my guns over wet if that makes sense. Blowbacks are always dirtier than you’d expect. Also what’s the specs on your PCC? That could have something to do with it too.

Edited by JAustin316

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So I tried a search and didn’t get much, so here we go. What’s everyone using for a lubricant on their PCC’s? I’m currently using Lucas on everything I shoot, I really like it. Unfortunately yesterday I was shooting a knock down steel match and on the last stage (5) the gun quit, the bolt had a ton of carbon built up. This was my first match with the gun, the gun was cleaned & lubed earlier in the week. On Friday before the match I Chrono’d a few different loads and checked zero (less than 30rnds), I did not re-lube before the match yesterday. Are blow back style PCC’s like 2011 open guns where you gotta put a ton of lube on them?
 
im shooting a coated bullet (switching to Precision Delta JHP, they haven’t arrived yet), with 4.0g of VV N320. 


Follow the froglube instructions and you will never come back to any CLP out there... you can run your pcc dry after you wiped the froglube



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I wipe everything (bolt/upper) with dry paper towels, then patches soaked in Mobile 1, wipe again and then grease the bolt rails with Slide Glide. Blowback funk combined with desert dust has never been an issue with this combo.

 

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35 minutes ago, JAustin316 said:

Im not running my guns over wet if that makes sense. Blowbacks are always dirtier than you’d expect. Also what’s the specs on your PCC? That could have something to do with it too.

New Frontier upper/lower 

PWS ratchet buffer tube

blitz krieg buffer system 

jp 308 buffer spring

faxon bolt assembly 

elftman trigger

i Don’t know about the barrel though, I win this rifle at the Alabama sectional from a sponsor that built it. 

 

I never cared for frog lube, I used it on several AR15’s  when they first came to market. I may give it another try though if I continue to run into this problem 

 

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20 minutes ago, Startingover said:

I just use Lucas, and probably not as often as I should.

 

Yup I just use Lucas. Way less than I should too.

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Lucas here as well. 

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Posted (edited)

Lucas extremely wet, on my bcg and buffer and some drops down the barrel. I put Cajun gun works grease on the top of my charging handle. Before a match I spray my comp with Dillon case lube or hot shot. 

Edited by Bwillis

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SLIP 2000 EXL LUBE. The best I ever used. It has a very high flash and will not cook off in the heat of an AR.

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Maybe I was just too liberal on the amount of Lucas I used. I’m gonna tear it down and give it a good cleaning and re-apply with a good amount. 

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I use Ballistol and try to run it fairly wet.

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Ok so I just got home from my mom's house and wanted to take the gun apart and clean it, when I pulled the read take down pin and spit the 2 halves I found little shards of metal. WTF right? I pulled the bolt and immediately see that there's a roll pin in the back of the bolt holding in a metal slug, well the roll pin backed itself off and started rubbing the inside of the upper. This was odd because I did not notice the roll pin when I first got the gun from the builder and tore it down to inspect, I also didn't notice anything when I cleaned/oiled it after I sighted the gun in (only took 10 shots and 2 separate groups of 5 to confirm zero). So either I over looked this (possible but unlikely) or the roll pin in the bolt is walking. This is most likely the case since up until yesterday the gun might have had 60-70rnds down range between initial sight in, chrono session, and a double check of the initial sight in (left my rest the 1st time) and I was about 250ish rounds into the match. Now the question is, do I risk shooting another match with this bolt or do I replace it with something better (JP) or send it back to Faxon?

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Synthetic grease, light coating on bolt and key friction points followed by Lucas oil works well for my MBX

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Posted (edited)

Brian Enos - Medium weight Slide-Glide...Brian provides Slide-Glide in three different viscosities. ....

 

..This is the ONLY gun lube I use...For occasional need for gun oil - I use CLP...Mark 

Edited by Sigarmsp226

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Slip 2000 EWL, I use it on all my firearms always stays where I put it and seems to not burn off as quickly as other oils I’ve tried 

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Lucas seems to work the best for my MPX.  Put it on and after day of running in Texas heat, and it is still there and working.  Love it!

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Frog Lube is ok for frogs...  but.. not guns... I use Mobil 1  100% synthetic .. 

 

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Frog Lube is ok for frogs...  but.. not guns... I use Mobil 1  100% synthetic .. 
 

Sorry but it works for my and especially on my open guns. I can run it dry vs wet that can attact dirt ;)


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14 hours ago, PewPewJohnson87 said:

Ok so I just got home from my mom's house and wanted to take the gun apart and clean it, when I pulled the read take down pin and spit the 2 halves I found little shards of metal. WTF right? I pulled the bolt and immediately see that there's a roll pin in the back of the bolt holding in a metal slug, well the roll pin backed itself off and started rubbing the inside of the upper. This was odd because I did not notice the roll pin when I first got the gun from the builder and tore it down to inspect, I also didn't notice anything when I cleaned/oiled it after I sighted the gun in (only took 10 shots and 2 separate groups of 5 to confirm zero). So either I over looked this (possible but unlikely) or the roll pin in the bolt is walking. This is most likely the case since up until yesterday the gun might have had 60-70rnds down range between initial sight in, chrono session, and a double check of the initial sight in (left my rest the 1st time) and I was about 250ish rounds into the match. Now the question is, do I risk shooting another match with this bolt or do I replace it with something better (JP) or send it back to Faxon?

My buddy had the same issue with his CMMG bolt. Some of the pins don't have much tension.  Just go to your local hardware store and get a new roll pin. Knock out the old one and replace it with new. make sure the pin is centered and not sticking out. Should take care of the problem.

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Grease (any grease, lithium based if you're asking for anything specific, but seriously, any grease pretty much works for firearms) for spots that have load bearing, impact or shear force. SO grease on the sliding components of the bolt, faces of impact areas, hammer disconnector, impact face of the firing pin.


A light coat of Oil pretty much anywhere else you see wear or is a moving component.

Which oil?

Mobil1 Motor Oil (or any motor oil) 0W-x or 5W-x (it doesn't need to be thick). It obviously has the lubrication needed under severe conditions but valuably comes with a very well developed (and proven) additives package that contains detergents and displacers for lifting and suspending carbon especially but other dirt and wear material in the oil. It also obviously has other additives specifically targeting the metal itself from corrosion and anything else. A good oil like Mobil 1 will ensure that carbon build up simply does not take place. My clean up of the barrel face (and everything else) consists of only wiping off the old oil using paper towels leaving clean shinny metal (I have a stainless barrel).

I also see good things about ATF, which is the same base oils as motor oils, however the additive package is far more significant as many ATFs are designed for the life of a car. Part of this is because the ATF isn't subject to the same peak temperatures as the motor oil, but they absolutely do have more sophisticated additives to target all forms of wear and lifetime maintenance issue like keeping the surface of metals clean from crap and stay lubricated.

Basically, the maintenance cycle of a car. Don't let it run dry. Change oil at a regular interval. No elbrow grease is needed to clean engines (or the firearm).
 

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Since this is turning into an "oil thread"...….

You might want to consider taking out the roll pin and bolt slug. A lot of us are running lighter bolts and buffers, with the 308 or lighter springs. I've got the NFA upper and lower, Taccom bolt, Tubbs 308 spring, no slug in the bolt, and a 6 oz. buffer. Shooting factory loads at about 130 - 135PF, very happily.

 

Hope this helps.

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1 hour ago, Supertrunk said:

Since this is turning into an "oil thread"...….

You might want to consider taking out the roll pin and bolt slug. A lot of us are running lighter bolts and buffers, with the 308 or lighter springs. I've got the NFA upper and lower, Taccom bolt, Tubbs 308 spring, no slug in the bolt, and a 6 oz. buffer. Shooting factory loads at about 130 - 135PF, very happily.

 

Hope this helps.

Im not sure I want to try this, Blitz Krieg does not recommend removing that slug from the Bolt. I appreciate the info though.

11 hours ago, Cavy said:

My buddy had the same issue with his CMMG bolt. Some of the pins don't have much tension.  Just go to your local hardware store and get a new roll pin. Knock out the old one and replace it with new. make sure the pin is centered and not sticking out. Should take care of the problem.

 

Thanks for that info, im going to try and locate a roll pin locally this weekend.

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