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Hammer pin vs hammer pin pin ?


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I'd like to change out my frames hammer roll pin, to a solid steel pin that doesn't have to be driven out with a punch. Reason being, I anticipate removing the hammer from time to time for cleaning, polishing, and hammer spring lb changes.

 

I'm doing something similar to the trigger roll pin, replacing it with the Canik pin. Can anyone point me in the right direction for that counterpart on the hammer?

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The hammer pin doesn't need to be driven out with a punch.  Just remove the sear cage, push the hammer pin pin out, and the hammer pin will push right out.  

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Wow yeah I don’t think any Tanfo uses a roll pin for the hammer pin. It looks like someone just made it work in your FrankenTanfo 🙂

 

What your hammer pin should look like would be https://benstoegerproshop.com/copy-of-eaa-tanfoglio-witness-trigger-bar-spring-3-7-3-8-3-9-3-10/

which would be held in place by the hammer pin pin which is held in place by the sear cage and looks like this https://benstoegerproshop.com/eaa-tanfoglio-witness-hammer-pin-retaining-pin/

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This is on my EAA Witness 10mm wonder finish. I purchased it brand new (sticky shipping wax and all) about 6 months ago. Been great to shoot, just now fully stripped to polish last night.

Edited by babyman1737
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9 hours ago, babyman1737 said:

I'd like to change out my frames hammer roll pin, to a solid steel pin that doesn't have to be driven out with a punch.

 

Some machining is going to be required by someone with skills. You’ll need a larger-diameter pocket machined on the left side of the frame for the flanged head of the smooth hammer pin, and then a hole precisely placed below the sear cage that intersects with the hammer pin hole at the correct depth.

 

The pin can’t be free-floated like the Canik trigger pin mod - not without falling out of the gun. The above setup retains the hammer pin in both directions.

 

The “competiton frame” guns with square trigger guards tend to have the setup you desire. The regular frame Witness guns often don’t, and you drive in a roll-pin instead.

 

My suggestion would be to make yourself a floating hammer pin out of a drill bit or punch the correct diameter, and leave the gun alone. With everything properly aligned, and a good set of roll pin punches, the factory setup works just fine. Slide your dummy pin in there to line everything up and tap the roll pin in, driving the dummy pin out of the frame. Makes it easy.

 

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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The competition guns (square trigger guard) have the good pin and keeper pin.  The round trigger guard guns have the PITA pound in roll pin. 

 

As MemphisMechanic stated, the conversion is possible, but will require specific machining skills.  You can buy the two pins from EAA and visit a good full service gunsmith to get it done.I doubt it will be cheap.

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36 minutes ago, johnbu said:

The competition guns (square trigger guard) have the good pin and keeper pin.  The round trigger guard guns have the PITA pound in roll pin. 

 

As MemphisMechanic stated, the conversion is possible, but will require specific machining skills.  You can buy the two pins from EAA and visit a good full service gunsmith to get it done.I doubt it will be cheap.

Just don't go to the gunsmith who did the trigger job shown in this cz thread post...

🤣🤣🤣

 

Edited by billthemarine2862
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