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Canik TP9SFx SS guide rod.


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Ordered a Galloway SS guide rod and was disappointed it weighed .4oz less than the stock rod.
So I turned a SS full length guide rod that uses 1911 springs on the lathe. It weighs .9oz more than factory. I also cut down a 1911 bushing to fit inside the unmodified frame. A commander length 18lb spring seems to work just fine but I’ll play with lighter springs later.
Also added a pre-travel screw to the factory trigger as well.
It’s shown in the pic at full take-up, I won’t be using it that close.
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Any plans on making another guide rod or 2? I would be interested.
 
Who did the stippling?
 
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GunCraft did the stippling.
I thought about making more rods but they won’t be cheap. I might try a brass one next it’s easier to work with.


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Is it possible to make the rods as long as the barrel for extra weight even if it requires some tapering?
 
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Yes easily. My next one will be longer. No taper required. The stock frame opening is .050” over what was required.


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Just throwing it out there but I’ve been experimenting with 13, 14, 15 pound full size 1911 springs cut down to commander length. Just cause I already had them. They all seem to run really well so far with WWB 115. I do have a lighter plunger and striker springs installed also. I picked up a Springer Precision Sig 320/250 guide rod and it works great so far.
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I have made or converted quite a few guide rods for my SFx now. One of the first ones I made was actually an older two piece Ed Brown stainless 1911 guide rod that I had sitting in a spare parts box. I just turned down the head (removing the prongs) until it was the same diameter as the stock Canik guide rod’s head. The end still had a little bit of a bevel that made it want to slip off the notch in the barrel so I chucked it in a drill press, put a flat block under it with a piece of 220 grit on it and took off just enough metal to give it a 90° edge. 

 

You can run as low as a 13lb Commander spring with no issues but you have to swap out to a lighter striker spring. Caniks are cock on close so the very stout factory striker spring will cause out of battery issues with most recoil springs under 14-15lbs. It may not be apparent at first but once to get a little carbon or dust in the works, the slide will to return to full battery. Of course, once you start lowering the striker spring you increase the odds of light strikes. Glock striker springs work down to about 6lbs. If you go lower than that, you will see some light strikes unless you make other modifications. A Glock 28 Newton striker spring works fairly well. As of late, I have been running a Ghost Glock 6.5lb spring and it has had no light strikes whatsoever.

 

While you are swapping striker springs, swapping out the firing pin block plunger spring is a good idea if you want an improved trigger pull. If your SFx is one made after the SD upgrade, swapping out the block plunger spring for a Ghost or Wolff Glock reduced power plunger spring can take as much as a pound off the pull weight. That’s not bad for $4.

Edited by Weapon
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Anyone new to the SFX listen to what Weapon has suggested above he knows these guns inside and out. I did what he recommended awhile back and my gun has been flawless with no light strikes. I’m only messing around with recoil springs just to see if I like one better than the other. If you do replace the plunger spring with the ghost spring I was told to stretch it just a little bit to match the factory length. I’m not sure if this is necessary but I did and my trigger is much lighter and has been flawless.


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Disconnect plunger spring was the first thing I did my pistol huge difference for only $5. I tend to not mess with the striker springs because I’d rather have a gun that runs 100% than one that runs 99%.


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Try the 6.5 ghost, you can get their 3 pack for the like $10 bucks. I’ve never had any issues with like strikes and 14-15 pound recoil spring.

 

 

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The 6.5 lb ghost string has been super reliable for me as well.

 

I don't recall if I used the reduced power glock or the CGW cz75 plunger spring.

 

I also used the Galloway Precision trigger return spring.

 

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[mention=71343]WarBoom[/mention]
 
Did you tap the trigger after drilling, or did it pretty much self thread?


I tapped it. Instead of drilling it to .112 I drilled it .102 for the little extra stretch then tapped it.


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  • 1 year later...

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