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Brophy-J

Better alternative to Dillon decapping/sizeing dies?

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Hello,

 

I reload only 9mm and am shooting a volume of rounds per week. I have a 1050 with stock dillon dies. The main issue I have with the machine stem from the decapping station.

Decapping pins seem to bend easy and I have to keep a constant supply of them on hand.

E-clips break form time to time as well, another thing I need to keep on hand. 

Sometimes primes dont pop free of the pin and get sucked back into the primer pocket, causing lengthy downtime. 

 

Is there a better alternative to the decapping/resizing station? I can live with what I have now but if there is something better I would love to know. Thank you for your time. 

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Hello,
 
I reload only 9mm and am shooting a volume of rounds per week. I have a 1050 with stock dillon dies. The main issue I have with the machine stem from the decapping station.
Decapping pins seem to bend easy and I have to keep a constant supply of them on hand.
E-clips break form time to time as well, another thing I need to keep on hand. 
Sometimes primes dont pop free of the pin and get sucked back into the primer pocket, causing lengthy downtime. 
 
Is there a better alternative to the decapping/resizing station? I can live with what I have now but if there is something better I would love to know. Thank you for your time. 
Mighty armory. strongest in the game

https://www.mightyarmory.com

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

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55 minutes ago, Brophy-J said:

@Rnlinebacker Thanks for your response man. looks like a good product. Think I will give it a shot. 

Good old LEE dies are much better than Dillon. Much cheaper as well

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13 minutes ago, Sarge said:

Good old LEE dies are much better than Dillon. Much cheaper as well

I like Lee as well. 

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Lee U die for knocking any glocked brass bulge out

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Another vote for Lee resizing/decapping die.  The design allows the pin to slide up rather than break when there's too much force applied.

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Here is my fix.

 

Take a Dillon pin (bent), cut off the pin and file smooth and square, drop in a Lyman decapping pin (7837786), then the Dillon bushing, and reassemble.

fGYP3Va.jpg

 

 

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Thanks everyone, at that price I have to try one out.

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I’ve had a regular lee die for about fifteen years and have never broken a pin yet, I have had it to slip up a several times though. I’ve also never had failure to feed in any of my guns don’t use a case gage never had any problems to make me need one yet thank goodness.

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Mighty Armory pins come in 2 sizes FYI
I decap once every few years (pre-process Ammobot 1050) can’t remember which size I used.

I am Guessing you are wet tumbling. If so make sure you get your brass 100% dry. If not and you let that brass sit the primers get semi-welded and can cause a lot of decap issues.

Oh yeah, Mighty Armory pins are freaking expensive. Last year I decapped 30,000 of crap brass that was not dried well and went back to Lee decapper due to the amount of money M.A. wanted for those pins.
My 2 cents



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I use the Lee U Die with squirrel daddy hardened decapping pins.

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10 hours ago, RePete said:

Here is my fix.

 

Take a Dillon pin (bent), cut off the pin and file smooth and square, drop in a Lyman decapping pin (7837786), then the Dillon bushing, and reassemble.

fGYP3Va.jpg

 

 

 

 

That’s what worked for me.  Bought a 10 pack of the Lyman pins, I’ve used one in 3 years. Before that I just tapered the Dillon pin and it stopped the pull backs. 

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I use Hornaday dies.  If you file the front of the pin almost flat primes don't stick to it.  haven't broken a pin yet.

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I just purchased the Mighty Armory die.  Curious to see how it rolls.  I'll admit, I bought into the marketing.  I've been using the Dillon die without issue for years now.

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I really like the Redding pro series dies, I’ve loaded about 6k rounds through it after switching from a Dillon die and it’s been great. No more bent recapping pins or broken clips.

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Haven't bent a Dillon pin yet, but when I was having problems with primer drawback on my 9mm die, filing a set of angles on the tip -- so that it hit the primer off-center -- instantly cured the drawback problem.

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I ordered the Lee U die and did some testing with it. On a 1050 following the directions provided, with the tool head all the way down screw in the die until it touches the shell plate  then tighten the lock ring finger tight.

 

I am getting a lot of rounds not passing my case gauge. I tried backing out the die 1/2 turn and deeper in 1/2 turn, same result. This is a much worse failure rate then the stock dillon die.

 

Any trick to getting this to work on a 1050?

 

 

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1 hour ago, Brophy-J said:

I ordered the Lee U die and did some testing with it. On a 1050 following the directions provided, with the tool head all the way down screw in the die until it touches the shell plate  then tighten the lock ring finger tight.

 

I am getting a lot of rounds not passing my case gauge. I tried backing out the die 1/2 turn and deeper in 1/2 turn, same result. This is a much worse failure rate then the stock dillon die.

 

Any trick to getting this to work on a 1050?

 

 

Something isn’t right. Virtually nothing should fail after Udie used. 

  UNLESS you are running brass with no lube. That will cause brass to get scrunched down and bulge out. Brass needs to be well lined.

 How/where is brass failing in gauge? Is it from not removing enough bell? That may need adjusted after switching to Udie.

 Any certain brass not passing?

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I ordered the Lee U die and did some testing with it. On a 1050 following the directions provided, with the tool head all the way down screw in the die until it touches the shell plate  then tighten the lock ring finger tight.
 
I am getting a lot of rounds not passing my case gauge. I tried backing out the die 1/2 turn and deeper in 1/2 turn, same result. This is a much worse failure rate then the stock dillon die.
 
Any trick to getting this to work on a 1050?
 
 
are there any threads left visible with how far you have it turned down?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

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I’ve been using the Redding die for a couple of years and no problems. No wasp looking rounds, sizes the brass good enough to fit my g17 and g34  Barsto barrels. Will fit a EGW case gauge which is the minimum Sami spec, and have never broken a pin yet. I think if your going through pins something else is amiss.

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Easy to fail case checking with a U-die if you run a heavy bullet deep. Like a flat base even bevel base.
Also trying to load larger diameter bullets that are heavy too and/or deep.
.357-.358
I run a U-die on a 1050 and there are a few headstamps that fail (Agula) comes to mind.
I would rather have a fail case checking than swage my powder coated bullet with something like a Lee factory crimp die.

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Mighty Armory Die is pretty slick.  Works very well.  No primer draw back, sizes great.  I'll likely still lube cases though.

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