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Superpipe9

P10F OR upgrades for competition

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3 hours ago, Jeff O said:

According to CGW the P-09 guide rod is to soft for the P-10 F. Just got my CGW ss guide rods for my two P-10 F's today along with their

15 lb spring. The only other changes I've made are 1) The stock rear sights I took off my Shadow 2's matched to Dawson f/o fronts and 2) Talon grip tape. I shoot SSP/Production and really enjoy beating the cheater dots and high cap mags. 😎

How do you like the grip tape? I’m thinking about trying that or doing a silicone carbide job. 

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Posted (edited)

The grip tape is better (more consistent) than the factory texturing and since I shoot IDPA as well as USPSA it"s what I can use.

 

Edited by Jeff O

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Posted (edited)
On 6/26/2019 at 8:47 PM, Jeff O said:

According to CGW the P-09 guide rod is to soft for the P-10 F. Just got my CGW ss guide rods for my two P-10 F's today along with their

15 lb spring. The only other changes I've made are 1) The stock rear sights I took off my Shadow 2's matched to Dawson f/o fronts and 2) Talon grip tape. I shoot SSP/Production and really enjoy beating the cheater dots and high cap mags. 😎

I purchased the P-09 guide rod from CGW.  They said I would have to trim it down.  They didn't say anything about it being to "soft".  If possible;  can you please tell me why they said this.  Is it safe to use with the P10F?  Thanks! 

Edited by Macinaw

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I talked to David at CGW and he told me about the P09 guide rod. They found out after testing. He told me at the time that the P10F rod would be ready in a week so I waited

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Posted (edited)

I am fiddling with a CZ P10F for a Carry Optics setup and found the following discoveries....

 

1 - Full size style Glock Guide rods will work along with Glock recoil springs. I got a Tungsten Glock Guide Rod and trimmed a little off of the end to make it flush with the muzzle. Obviously Glock recoil springs work as they are the same diameter.

 

2 - I have tested Glock Recoil springs in 11, 13, 15, and 18lb ratings. I prefer the 13lb recoil spring the best with factory Winchester White Box 115gr ammo.

 

3 - I tested factory ammo in 115, 124, 147 and 150gr bullet weights. For me, the 115gr ammo produced the least amount of muzzle bounce as the slide snaps back forward.

 

4 - Springer Precision P-07 140mm base pads work well on the P10F tubes. I used a Taran Tactical "Thin" follower for STI/SV and cut material off of the back to make it 29mm long front to back. This makes it fit inside the P10F tubes without binding. Then I used a Grams 11 coil magazine spring. This setup allows me to cram 24 rounds in the mag and I can reload to it fairly easily. I will likely only cram the 24th round in there when I really need it as that does coil bind the spring excessively. But 24+1 is totally doable. I didn't test the last round slide lock back function with this setup as its not needed in Carry Optics. If you are running the gun dry mid stage run, you are doing something way wrong already and the slide locking back isn't going to make any difference.

 

5 - Glock striker springs are direct replacements on the P10F. I tested 2, 3, 3.5 and 4lb striker springs. The 2lb striker spring obviously produces the lightest trigger pull but it also creates a few light strikes on factory ammo. It would likely work if I was using reloaded ammo with soft Federal primers. After switching to the 3lb striker spring I have yet to experience any light strikes with any factory ammo. The 3lb striker spring along with polished internals produces a buttery smooth trigger pull at about 3.5lbs.

 

6 - There is no need to buy an expensive after market trigger shoe. The stock trigger can be tuned up to dramatically reduce the Pre/Over travel by using 2-56 button head screws in the trigger shoe itself. It took me about 30 minutes to get these Pre/Over travel screws installed and tuned up to dramatically reduce the overall trigger travel. I am not going to explain how to do this. If you can't figure out how to do it yourself, then leave it up to a qualified gunsmith to do it for you.

 

7 - CZ Custom currently makes the most cost effective optic mounts. They are made out of aluminum and have the proper "key" machined into the bottom to engage the top of the slide properly.

 

8 - I am using a Holosun 507C red dot sight with the CZ custom aluminum optic mount. This combo weighs 1.75oz. The stock slide mounted plate that covers the optic mounting portion also weighs exactly 1.75oz. This means that removing the plate to add an optic doesn't change the overall weight of the slide which is really cool. 

 

9 - The portion of the grip where the removable back strap attaches has a HUGE empty spot where you can add lead weight to the grip if you wanted. Stick on wheel weights can easily be added to this area of the gun and I would venture to guess you could get at least 2oz of extra weight in there.

 

10 - The Cajun Gun Works striker is dimensionaly identical to the stock CZ part. When the sear engagement surface on the stock CZ striker and CGW striker are polished the trigger pull feel is identical. Could the CGW striker potentially last longer because its machined out of bar stock instead of the MIM stock part? Probably. But I find it hard to believe that the stock MIM part will have a high failure rate or they wouldn't have used that type of metal for it.

 

11 - The only portion of the grip that I felt needed more friction over the stock stippling is the left side of the grip. The heel of my support hand rests on the side of the gun where there isn't any stippling. I tried adding grip tape to the whole side panel with the stock stippling in place, but the grip tape would shift around on the stock stippling. I ground off the stock stippling on the left side of the grip to make it smooth then added grip tape to the whole area. Now it has consistent friction from the bottom all the way to the top and the grip tape doesn't move around. I am using Black Magic skateboard tape for the grip tape.

 

12 - For my level of grip on the gun (Significant pounds of grip force) I will likely need to remove 1.5oz of weight from the slide to produce an optimal snap forward of the slide when shooting 115gr bullets. The Carry Optics division allows you to make these type of slide lightening cuts and still be legal. That is my next step in the "Modding" process on this blaster. Once that is done it should be fully ready to rumble for Carry Optics division.

Edited by CHA-LEE

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10 hours ago, CHA-LEE said:

I am fiddling with a CZ P10F for a Carry Optics setup and found the following discoveries....

 

1 - Full size style Glock Guide rods will work along with Glock recoil springs. I got a Tungsten Glock Guide Rod and trimmed a little off of the end to make it flush with the muzzle. Obviously Glock recoil springs work as they are the same diameter.

 

2 - I have tested Glock Recoil springs in 11, 13, 15, and 18lb ratings. I prefer the 13lb recoil spring the best with factory Winchester White Box 115gr ammo.

 

3 - I tested factory ammo in 115, 124, 147 and 150gr bullet weights. For me, the 115gr ammo produced the least amount of muzzle bounce as the slide snaps back forward.

 

4 - Springer Precision P-07 140mm base pads work well on the P10F tubes. I used a Taran Tactical "Thin" follower for STI/SV and cut material off of the back to make it 29mm long front to back. This makes it fit inside the P10F tubes without binding. Then I used a Grams 11 coil magazine spring. This setup allows me to cram 24 rounds in the mag and I can reload to it fairly easily. I will likely only cram the 24th round in there when I really need it as that does coil bind the spring excessively. But 24+1 is totally doable. I didn't test the last round slide lock back function with this setup as its not needed in Carry Optics. If you are running the gun dry mid stage run, you are doing something way wrong already and the slide locking back isn't going to make any difference.

 

5 - Glock striker springs are direct replacements on the P10F. I tested 2, 3, 3.5 and 4lb striker springs. The 2lb striker spring obviously produces the lightest trigger pull but it also creates a few light strikes on factory ammo. It would likely work if I was using reloaded ammo with soft Federal primers. After switching to the 3lb striker spring I have yet to experience any light strikes with any factory ammo. The 3lb striker spring along with polished internals produces a buttery smooth trigger pull at about 3.5lbs.

 

6 - There is no need to buy an expensive after market trigger shoe. The stock trigger can be tuned up to dramatically reduce the Pre/Over travel by using 2-56 button head screws in the trigger shoe itself. It took me about 30 minutes to get these Pre/Over travel screws installed and tuned up to dramatically reduce the overall trigger travel. I am not going to explain how to do this. If you can't figure out how to do it yourself, then leave it up to a qualified gunsmith to do it for you.

 

7 - CZ Custom currently makes the most cost effective optic mounts. They are made out of aluminum and have the proper "key" machined into the bottom to engage the top of the slide properly.

 

8 - I am using a Holosun 510C red dot sight with the CZ custom aluminum optic mount. This combo weighs 1.75oz. The stock slide mounted plate that covers the optic mounting portion also weighs exactly 1.75oz. This means that removing the plate to add an optic doesn't change the overall weight of the slide which is really cool. 

 

9 - The portion of the grip where the removable back strap attaches has a HUGE empty spot where you can add lead weight to the grip if you wanted. Stick on wheel weights can easily be added to this area of the gun and I would venture to guess you could get at least 2oz of extra weight in there.

 

10 - The Cajun Gun Works striker is dimensionaly identical to the stock CZ part. When the sear engagement surface on the stock CZ striker and CGW striker are polished the trigger pull feel is identical. Could the CGW striker potentially last longer because its machined out of bar stock instead of the MIM stock part? Probably. But I find it hard to believe that the stock MIM part will have a high failure rate or they wouldn't have used that type of metal for it.

 

11 - The only portion of the grip that I felt needed more friction over the stock stippling is the left side of the grip. The heel of my support hand rests on the side of the gun where there isn't any stippling. I tried adding grip tape to the whole side panel with the stock stippling in place, but the grip tape would shift around on the stock stippling. I ground off the stock stippling on the left side of the grip to make it smooth then added grip tape to the whole area. Now it has consistent friction from the bottom all the way to the top and the grip tape doesn't move around. I am using Black Magic skateboard tape for the grip tape.

 

12 - For my level of grip on the gun (Significant pounds of grip force) I will likely need to remove 1.5oz of weight from the slide to produce an optimal snap forward of the slide when shooting 115gr bullets. The Carry Optics division allows you to make these type of slide lightening cuts and still be legal. That is my next step in the "Modding" process on this blaster. Once that is done it should be fully ready to rumble for Carry Optics division.

Awesome right up sir. Thanks for the information. Where do you usually purchase your Glock parts like the recoil, striker springs and the tungsten guide rod? Also after all is said and done do you think getting a p320x5, Q5 or having a shadow 2 milled is the better way to go in CO division? I got the P10f because it was cheap and I wanted to play with a CO gun but after all is said and done I think if you are really serious about competing the shadow 2 milled for CO is the way to go. The only thing I don’t like about the P10f is I don’t have enough room for my support hand  on the grip. I really wish they would make the whole grip larger. I have thought about smoothing out the grip and doing a silicone carbide grip job but am worried I would mess it up. Thanks again for the information. 

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There's a lot to choose from. Glockstore has a sale going on right now on their guide rods. I got the 13lb tungsten spring to try out in my P10F. I have a spare 4lbs Glock striker spring I will throw in and see how that goes with the Federal Syntech 150gr ammo.  What areas of the internals did you polish to smooth out the trigger? 

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40 minutes ago, Jeff O said:

OK, no more CO talk for me.

What size back strap are you running and did you do your own grip tape job or did you buy the pre cut stuff?

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Silicon carbide is really easy to do.  Just mask off the region you want to coat, smear on a thin layer of epoxy, then dump on the silicon carbide until you can't get any more to stick and let it dry.  After it quits shedding the loose stuff, it's pretty great!  Really sticks to your hands without chewing them up like aggressive grips will.

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There are a metric crap ton of online websites that sell Glock parts. Google is your friend when searching for parts.

 

Everyone has their own reasons for picking the blaster they want to compete with. If it is reliable, accurate and you can get parts for it that should be enough to get the job done in competition. Beyond that it comes down to how the gun fits your hand, how hard it hits your wallet, and who is available to work on it if you can’t. The primary reasons that I picked the P10F was the cost. Super cheap compared to getting a Shadow 2 or SIG X5 then decking it out for CO division. The second reason is that it fits my hands without giving me slide bite. The last reason is that I like tinkering on stuff to figure it all out and this seemed like a cool project to tackle that wouldn’t break the bank.

 

I am not going to give specific trigger job details because I don’t want the liability of it. As I said before, if you can’t figure it out yourself then leave it to a professional to do it for you. 

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On 6/29/2019 at 7:32 PM, CHA-LEE said:

I am fiddling with a CZ P10F for a Carry Optics setup and found the following discoveries....

 

1 - Full size style Glock Guide rods will work along with Glock recoil springs. I got a Tungsten Glock Guide Rod and trimmed a little off of the end to make it flush with the muzzle. Obviously Glock recoil springs work as they are the same diameter.

 

2 - I have tested Glock Recoil springs in 11, 13, 15, and 18lb ratings. I prefer the 13lb recoil spring the best with factory Winchester White Box 115gr ammo.

 

3 - I tested factory ammo in 115, 124, 147 and 150gr bullet weights. For me, the 115gr ammo produced the least amount of muzzle bounce as the slide snaps back forward.

 

4 - Springer Precision P-07 140mm base pads work well on the P10F tubes. I used a Taran Tactical "Thin" follower for STI/SV and cut material off of the back to make it 29mm long front to back. This makes it fit inside the P10F tubes without binding. Then I used a Grams 11 coil magazine spring. This setup allows me to cram 24 rounds in the mag and I can reload to it fairly easily. I will likely only cram the 24th round in there when I really need it as that does coil bind the spring excessively. But 24+1 is totally doable. I didn't test the last round slide lock back function with this setup as its not needed in Carry Optics. If you are running the gun dry mid stage run, you are doing something way wrong already and the slide locking back isn't going to make any difference.

 

5 - Glock striker springs are direct replacements on the P10F. I tested 2, 3, 3.5 and 4lb striker springs. The 2lb striker spring obviously produces the lightest trigger pull but it also creates a few light strikes on factory ammo. It would likely work if I was using reloaded ammo with soft Federal primers. After switching to the 3lb striker spring I have yet to experience any light strikes with any factory ammo. The 3lb striker spring along with polished internals produces a buttery smooth trigger pull at about 3.5lbs.

 

6 - There is no need to buy an expensive after market trigger shoe. The stock trigger can be tuned up to dramatically reduce the Pre/Over travel by using 2-56 button head screws in the trigger shoe itself. It took me about 30 minutes to get these Pre/Over travel screws installed and tuned up to dramatically reduce the overall trigger travel. I am not going to explain how to do this. If you can't figure out how to do it yourself, then leave it up to a qualified gunsmith to do it for you.

 

7 - CZ Custom currently makes the most cost effective optic mounts. They are made out of aluminum and have the proper "key" machined into the bottom to engage the top of the slide properly.

 

8 - I am using a Holosun 510C red dot sight with the CZ custom aluminum optic mount. This combo weighs 1.75oz. The stock slide mounted plate that covers the optic mounting portion also weighs exactly 1.75oz. This means that removing the plate to add an optic doesn't change the overall weight of the slide which is really cool. 

 

9 - The portion of the grip where the removable back strap attaches has a HUGE empty spot where you can add lead weight to the grip if you wanted. Stick on wheel weights can easily be added to this area of the gun and I would venture to guess you could get at least 2oz of extra weight in there.

 

10 - The Cajun Gun Works striker is dimensionaly identical to the stock CZ part. When the sear engagement surface on the stock CZ striker and CGW striker are polished the trigger pull feel is identical. Could the CGW striker potentially last longer because its machined out of bar stock instead of the MIM stock part? Probably. But I find it hard to believe that the stock MIM part will have a high failure rate or they wouldn't have used that type of metal for it.

 

11 - The only portion of the grip that I felt needed more friction over the stock stippling is the left side of the grip. The heel of my support hand rests on the side of the gun where there isn't any stippling. I tried adding grip tape to the whole side panel with the stock stippling in place, but the grip tape would shift around on the stock stippling. I ground off the stock stippling on the left side of the grip to make it smooth then added grip tape to the whole area. Now it has consistent friction from the bottom all the way to the top and the grip tape doesn't move around. I am using Black Magic skateboard tape for the grip tape.

 

12 - For my level of grip on the gun (Significant pounds of grip force) I will likely need to remove 1.5oz of weight from the slide to produce an optimal snap forward of the slide when shooting 115gr bullets. The Carry Optics division allows you to make these type of slide lightening cuts and still be legal. That is my next step in the "Modding" process on this blaster. Once that is done it should be fully ready to rumble for Carry Optics division.

 

I had a G34 .270 guide rod from Jager Products laying around and I wondered if it would work on my P-10 F. I tried it with a Glock 15 lb spring.  Guide rod stuck out past the muzzle which I knew it would.  Slide went into battery.  Everything seemed to function fine.  When I tried to take off the slide, it only moved about a half inch.  The back of the slide is about a half inch forward of the back of the frame.  The slide locks back fine so I took out the striker.  I unstuck a Glock once by taking out the striker but no help on the CZ.  I have tried several times doing the CZ slide removal protocol without success.  I have two P-10 Cs and the P-10 F so I have done this many times. Still stuck.  

 

So the differences here between the stuck slide and the normal operating slide are,  extended Glock guide rod with round wire spring vs captured guide rod with flat wire spring.  The rod sticks out past the muzzle but that should only effect looks, right? The rod is .270 so there is not a lot of slop in the spring. The slide starts to move after pulling down the take down tabs but then stops.  It is a solid stop not a stop that feels like the spring is bound up.  There is no movement after the slide stops.  Any thoughts?

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On ‎6‎/‎29‎/‎2019 at 7:01 PM, Jeff O said:

I talked to David at CGW and he told me about the P09 guide rod. They found out after testing. He told me at the time that the P10F rod would be ready in a week so I waited

 

I have a hard time seeing a how a P-09's guide rod would be too soft to use in a P-10.  The slides aren't identical but they are pretty damned close in mass.  So if the P-09's guide rod is hard enough to use in a P-09 the margin of error must be tiny.

 

I think you misunderstood what you heard.

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On 6/29/2019 at 8:32 PM, CHA-LEE said:

8 - I am using a Holosun 510C red dot sight with the CZ custom aluminum optic mount. This combo weighs 1.75oz. The stock slide mounted plate that covers the optic mounting portion also weighs exactly 1.75oz. This means that removing the plate to add an optic doesn't change the overall weight of the slide which is really cool. 


Do you mean 507C? The 510C is quite a big larger. The 507C is the slide-ride style equivalent.

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19 hours ago, avastcosmicarena said:


Do you mean 507C? The 510C is quite a big larger. The 507C is the slide-ride style equivalent.

You are correct. That is an error on my part. I am using the 507C. Been playing with the 510C on my Open gun so got the numbers mixed up. So many sights to test, so little time :)

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I'm looking for an extended slide stop. Does the P10F and P10C use the same one?

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On 6/30/2019 at 1:31 PM, Superpipe9 said:

Awesome right up sir. Thanks for the information. Where do you usually purchase your Glock parts like the recoil, striker springs and the tungsten guide rod? Also after all is said and done do you think getting a p320x5, Q5 or having a shadow 2 milled is the better way to go in CO division? I got the P10f because it was cheap and I wanted to play with a CO gun but after all is said and done I think if you are really serious about competing the shadow 2 milled for CO is the way to go. The only thing I don’t like about the P10f is I don’t have enough room for my support hand  on the grip. I really wish they would make the whole grip larger. I have thought about smoothing out the grip and doing a silicone carbide grip job but am worried I would mess it up. Thanks again for the information. 

That makes me worry if the P10F is the one for me. :( I´m afraid that i will have the same problem. How big are your hands?

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On 7/1/2019 at 10:08 AM, fastlane604 said:

 

I had a G34 .270 guide rod from Jager Products laying around and I wondered if it would work on my P-10 F. I tried it with a Glock 15 lb spring.  Guide rod stuck out past the muzzle which I knew it would.  Slide went into battery.  Everything seemed to function fine.  When I tried to take off the slide, it only moved about a half inch.  The back of the slide is about a half inch forward of the back of the frame.  The slide locks back fine so I took out the striker.  I unstuck a Glock once by taking out the striker but no help on the CZ.  I have tried several times doing the CZ slide removal protocol without success.  I have two P-10 Cs and the P-10 F so I have done this many times. Still stuck.  

 

So the differences here between the stuck slide and the normal operating slide are,  extended Glock guide rod with round wire spring vs captured guide rod with flat wire spring.  The rod sticks out past the muzzle but that should only effect looks, right? The rod is .270 so there is not a lot of slop in the spring. The slide starts to move after pulling down the take down tabs but then stops.  It is a solid stop not a stop that feels like the spring is bound up.  There is no movement after the slide stops.  Any thoughts?

 

A word to the wise. If you try a Glock rod, or any non OEM rod in your P-10, make certain that the head size does not exceed the head size of the OEM rod.  That is what was causing my problem.

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7 hours ago, fastlane604 said:

 

A word to the wise. If you try a Glock rod, or any non OEM rod in your P-10, make certain that the head size does not exceed the head size of the OEM rod.  That is what was causing my problem.

Was you able to get it fixed and if so how did you get it back apart?

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Yes, i did.  I first removed the striker. I have unstuck both Glock and CZ slides doing that in the past.  That did not work.  I turned the gun upside down and initiated the slide removal protocol.  That did not work.  Out of frustration, I moved the slide as far forward as I could, about 3/8".  I then sharply rapped the back of the slide with a rubber hammer and the slide slid right off. I think the head of the Glock guide rod was hung up on the frame just enough to keep the slide from moving freely forward.  All seems good.  Thanks for asking.

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I received my czc 10 coil spring and follower today to try with my Springer Precision base pads.  I could fit 23 rounds into the magazine, but was very inconsistent with loading the first round. I'm currently using federal syntech (I don't reload at the moment), and it seems they just run into the bottom lip of the feed ramp. I tried some freedom munitions round nose ammo and it loaded fine. Must be the flat nose profile of the projectile.  I guess I'll just run the stock spring and follower which fits 22 rounds, its just a one round difference, but at least it loaded the first round reliably. Anyone else have this problem? 

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6 hours ago, j2_a2 said:

I received my czc 10 coil spring and follower today to try with my Springer Precision base pads.  I could fit 23 rounds into the magazine, but was very inconsistent with loading the first round. I'm currently using federal syntech (I don't reload at the moment), and it seems they just run into the bottom lip of the feed ramp. I tried some freedom munitions round nose ammo and it loaded fine. Must be the flat nose profile of the projectile.  I guess I'll just run the stock spring and follower which fits 22 rounds, its just a one round difference, but at least it loaded the first round reliably. Anyone else have this problem? 

 

I had a problem with 150 Syntech and OEM mags with CZ Custom 140mm extensions. 22 rounds of 115 ball worked fine, but not the Syntech. I assume the volume and profile of the 150 bullet, compared to the 115 ball is the problem. 

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On 6/29/2019 at 8:32 PM, CHA-LEE said:

I am fiddling with a CZ P10F for a Carry Optics setup and found the following discoveries....

 

1 - Full size style Glock Guide rods will work along with Glock recoil springs. I got a Tungsten Glock Guide Rod and trimmed a little off of the end to make it flush with the muzzle. Obviously Glock recoil springs work as they are the same diameter.

 

2 - I have tested Glock Recoil springs in 11, 13, 15, and 18lb ratings. I prefer the 13lb recoil spring the best with factory Winchester White Box 115gr ammo.

 

3 - I tested factory ammo in 115, 124, 147 and 150gr bullet weights. For me, the 115gr ammo produced the least amount of muzzle bounce as the slide snaps back forward.

 

4 - Springer Precision P-07 140mm base pads work well on the P10F tubes. I used a Taran Tactical "Thin" follower for STI/SV and cut material off of the back to make it 29mm long front to back. This makes it fit inside the P10F tubes without binding. Then I used a Grams 11 coil magazine spring. This setup allows me to cram 24 rounds in the mag and I can reload to it fairly easily. I will likely only cram the 24th round in there when I really need it as that does coil bind the spring excessively. But 24+1 is totally doable. I didn't test the last round slide lock back function with this setup as its not needed in Carry Optics. If you are running the gun dry mid stage run, you are doing something way wrong already and the slide locking back isn't going to make any difference.

 

5 - Glock striker springs are direct replacements on the P10F. I tested 2, 3, 3.5 and 4lb striker springs. The 2lb striker spring obviously produces the lightest trigger pull but it also creates a few light strikes on factory ammo. It would likely work if I was using reloaded ammo with soft Federal primers. After switching to the 3lb striker spring I have yet to experience any light strikes with any factory ammo. The 3lb striker spring along with polished internals produces a buttery smooth trigger pull at about 3.5lbs.

 

6 - There is no need to buy an expensive after market trigger shoe. The stock trigger can be tuned up to dramatically reduce the Pre/Over travel by using 2-56 button head screws in the trigger shoe itself. It took me about 30 minutes to get these Pre/Over travel screws installed and tuned up to dramatically reduce the overall trigger travel. I am not going to explain how to do this. If you can't figure out how to do it yourself, then leave it up to a qualified gunsmith to do it for you.

 

7 - CZ Custom currently makes the most cost effective optic mounts. They are made out of aluminum and have the proper "key" machined into the bottom to engage the top of the slide properly.

 

8 - I am using a Holosun 507C red dot sight with the CZ custom aluminum optic mount. This combo weighs 1.75oz. The stock slide mounted plate that covers the optic mounting portion also weighs exactly 1.75oz. This means that removing the plate to add an optic doesn't change the overall weight of the slide which is really cool. 

 

9 - The portion of the grip where the removable back strap attaches has a HUGE empty spot where you can add lead weight to the grip if you wanted. Stick on wheel weights can easily be added to this area of the gun and I would venture to guess you could get at least 2oz of extra weight in there.

 

10 - The Cajun Gun Works striker is dimensionaly identical to the stock CZ part. When the sear engagement surface on the stock CZ striker and CGW striker are polished the trigger pull feel is identical. Could the CGW striker potentially last longer because its machined out of bar stock instead of the MIM stock part? Probably. But I find it hard to believe that the stock MIM part will have a high failure rate or they wouldn't have used that type of metal for it.

 

11 - The only portion of the grip that I felt needed more friction over the stock stippling is the left side of the grip. The heel of my support hand rests on the side of the gun where there isn't any stippling. I tried adding grip tape to the whole side panel with the stock stippling in place, but the grip tape would shift around on the stock stippling. I ground off the stock stippling on the left side of the grip to make it smooth then added grip tape to the whole area. Now it has consistent friction from the bottom all the way to the top and the grip tape doesn't move around. I am using Black Magic skateboard tape for the grip tape.

 

12 - For my level of grip on the gun (Significant pounds of grip force) I will likely need to remove 1.5oz of weight from the slide to produce an optimal snap forward of the slide when shooting 115gr bullets. The Carry Optics division allows you to make these type of slide lightening cuts and still be legal. That is my next step in the "Modding" process on this blaster. Once that is done it should be fully ready to rumble for Carry Optics division.

Do you think the tungsten guide rod is worth the money over a steel one? My biggest problem with the gun is I have no room for my support hand and I don’t know if I’m gonna be able to solve that problem. I’m going to put the large backstrap in so that will give me just a tiny bit more room over the medium and I need to either put grip tape on or a silicone carbide. Are you using the large backstrap and did you experience these issues? Thanks

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I am using the Medium back strap and can get a decent support hand purchase on the side of the gun. The primary reason I used the Medium back strap is that it made the gun point very similar to my 2011. The large back strap made the muzzle point high with my “normal” grip position.

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22 hours ago, GJM said:

 

I had a problem with 150 Syntech and OEM mags with CZ Custom 140mm extensions. 22 rounds of 115 ball worked fine, but not the Syntech. I assume the volume and profile of the 150 bullet, compared to the 115 ball is the problem. 

So, I had a pretty significant issue with some 147 American Eagle fmj stuff which is a flat nose round like the  syntech round is. When I ordered my original base pads and followers, i believe I got sent the 75 mag follower kit and not the p series mag kit. I swapped back to the stock guts in the interim and haven’t had an issue, but I should have the correct kit sometime next week.

 

I settled on the gun just not liking the flat nose rounds, and I’ve burned off all that I had left fortunately though somewhat frustrating at the time. So now I’m shooting 124 blazer through it at the moment. No issues so far.

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