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I am not sure i am this dumb yet....


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but if i do get dumb enough to shoot revolver i need a little advice.


  First off i would be wanting a 627, so is their a cheap way to get a  halfway ok trigger?   I am looking for passable, but i want to leave the hammer the way they come and i want it set off win, cci, etc.  I know that will make the trigger not as good, but am willing to deal with that.  The gun will be doing some double duty.  Also what are the chances of getting a working revolver, i see stories about smith, but the internet tends to blow things out of proportion


Moon holders:  Is that auto thing the way to go, or  is there a nice cheaper option?


Holsters:  i am a damn lefty, i know safariland makes one that is kinda kydex that i figure will be fine, but should i be looking somewhere else?


Where do you get the ext thumb releases?


Should i use s&w moons or is there some better option?


Also if that ruger 8 shot 357 would be better let me know


I am trying to keep the budget to a minimum, but don't want crap either.  But, things don't have to be top end either.  I will probably only shoot locals, not looking to be national champ haha



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I hate being the first response because there are others with a lot more expertise and experience here but here goes:


I'm with you on wanting more of a “stock” experience. Winchester primers are on the shelf locally any day and are my go to primers in my striker fired Limited blaster. I was able to accomplish this by working with a local smith and making several attempts. My opinion is I have the best of both worlds with a smooth action with enough umf to set off most primers. I still load Federal for revolver competition due to some creative primer hunting and boarder line hoarding. But it’s nice to know that if I had to, I could probably get away with Wins for practice rounds anyway.


that being said, those better shooters than me-including my instructor-after trying my 627 ask, “when are you going to get an trigger job?” To be honest, the more I complete with it, the more I’m starting to see it their way. We send a lot of rounds down during a match and it’s a lot of work to keep trigger control steady for 300 rounds at speed. So there might be more work in my future for a true “competition” action job.


as for extended cylinder release, Hogue, TK, and Revolver supply are popular. I was lucky as I picked up a used Hogue from a friend who had moved on. 

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Some much more experienced folks will be along shortly, but here is my 2 cents:


Trigger: you can do it yourself (there are a couple good videos on YouTube), but to ensure reliable function with all the primers you noted, I would probably send it out to someone that knows what they are doing.


Moon clip holders: Personal preference with North mountain (posts), Speed-E-Rack/DAA (magnetic), or James Austin server (spring loaded), amongst others.


Holster for lefty: Unfortunately as a righty, I’m not much help here.


Extended thumb release: TK customs or Hogue are two options.


Moons: These are really brass specific, as the groove is not as standardized on rimmed cases (as opposed to a rimless case like 9mm). Lots swear by TK customs, but they are really stiff. I personally like revolver supply (the thickest nickel plated), but again make sure to match your brass.


The one thing I do know for certain, is that this can start to add up fast. However, you don’t need to go whole hog right away.

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If you have basic skills you can get an acceptable trigger that will set off Win maybe not CCI.

You have to be able to take the gun apart and know how to get it back together correctly.


Reasonable trigger

Wilson spring kit cause it comes with 3 rebound springs.  So you can try them and see which works best for you.

Arkansas stone everything WITHOUT changing angles to get burrs off.

Go to range and turn screw until it sets off win primers by turning strain screw on new spring kit.

Blue loctite it there or do the math on the number of turns and file the strain screw.

LOTS of other stuff can be done but that should put you in the 7 lbs DA range which is shootable until you decide how DUMB you're going to get.


Moons, any decent ones are going to cost 45.00-80.00 for 10.  Cheap compared to mags for an auto

Moon clip tools I still use the plain jane cheap one

Demooner is a thinwall pipe filed at the end to fit the clip and a foam ear plug in the bottom with sports

tape wrapped for a handle


Holster I believe Comp-Tech make Kydex LH holster for Revo's for about 50-60.00


I've used a speedy rack for years but a local guy at the club makes the same rack for about half the money.

You can look for used or get to me and I'll get him your contact info.


I don't shoot revo all the time but keep wishing more would show up at USPSA.

fortunately we have an ICORE match in my area once a month at least!!


Good fortune

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Back to your list, I’ve found on moon clips aren’t as brass particular as one would read. I’m using Starline short colt which probably gives a 627 the “929” experience. (On a side note, Short Colt is worth it simply for the extraction experience). Back to moons: I find that revolver supply .25’s are the best bang for the buck. ( the revolver supply nickels.25 fit real nice). If I had to buy one, I’d opt for the TK blues. That’s what Smith and Wesson ships with the gun so that says something. You will I’ll loose a few during each match, so it’s best to find the best economic solution. Like it was explained to me, the more you pay for moons, the faster the RO will step on them.


BTW, you will love competing with a revolver. FUN!



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My 929 came with a smooth but heavy (10lb) trigger. It would set off any primer I tried. I put a Miculek spring kit in it (You tube for a how to course) and it was done pretty quick, down to about 7 1/2 lbs and still set off Federal and Winchester 100%.

S&W gets a bad rap all the time but their product will fire any primer. Still a better trigger than almost any Ruger you can pick up. (Stock of course)

I use several brands of moonclips. All seem similar. Ranch Products are less expensive.

I use the magnetic post type moonclip holders. The auto thingy looks cool but since I replace the moon onto my belt after each SC string I don't think it's practical for me.

Holsters are just an internet or Benos search away.


Welcome to the dark side!

Edited by Dr. Phil
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What I do for the strain screw is get a #8-32 x 1/2" long socket set screw (headless). Take out the strain screw and put in the set screw with blue LocTite. Then I drill a small access hole in the grip to adjust it without removing the grip (optional). This way you can tune the mainspring to be the lightest reliable with any primers. Start out with a light setting where you are getting misfires and increase the mainspring tension with the setscrew in 1/8 turn increments until you get no misfires. Whatever mainspring comes in the gun works fine. Then try different rebound springs to find the lightest one that gives the trigger return action you want.


It's a good idea to weigh the hammer pull with a trigger pull scale and record that number for future reference. That way if you have to take out the mainspring to work on the gun, you can simply put it back to that number with the trigger pull gage and not have to experiment all over again.This is the cheap, easy way to get the lightest trigger pull your primers will allow. It's not as good as having the action tuned by a good revo smith, but way better than factory.

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Moon Clips get TK or HearthCo for the brand of brass you want to use.  The tighter the fit without binding the better the reload.  The stock clips will be loose and you will not be happy with the speed of your reloads.  They cost more, but you won't lose many to fat feet, hopefully, or just disappearing into the soil.  For general use you won't need moon clips and 5 star and speed beez make 8 shot speed loaders.


There's another thread on holsters, for security and speed Comp-Tac and Speedbeez seem to be the best looking.


Either go to Jerry's youtube site or get his video.  It's not hard at all to smooth up the action, once done bend the main spring to give a hammer drop of 60 ounces, another option is to file the strain screw down to get to that weight.  If you do that get a couple of extra strain screws from Midway or Brownells so you can adjust if things start getting light on you at the range where you wouldn't want to take everything apart and try to re-bend a main spring.  That method also saves you from drilling a set screw for the strain screw.  Also if you do get extras, get them before filing on the original they may come shorter.

Then get a pack of rebound springs from wolf and try different ones to give you a good, and comfortable to you, trigger return.  

Then shoot it with the hardest primers you have to make sure it all goes bang.  Reloading ammo for matches use Federal SP Primers if at all possible.

I don't chop my hammers anymore and with fed primers have no trouble at 5 1/2 lbs.  At about 7 1/2 - 8 lbs will set off any factory ammo I have.


I keep a few extra strain screws of longer lengths just in case, and another trick in a pinch is a fired primer cup between the strain screw and the main spring.  


For me I like the .196" S&W sight blade, my 627 PC came with it but if you have a RS blade that seems shallow go to Midway or Brownells and get the .196 blade and adjustment screw/nut, or a whole sight assembly.  


Cylinder Release, if you can't use factory I do but I'm not LH, try http://www.revolversupply.com/cylinder-release-idpa/https://www.hogueinc.com/accessories/s-whttps://www.tkcustom.com/products/tkc-cylinder-releasehttps://www.speedbeez.com/product-category/cylinder-releases/.



Edited by pskys2
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Ill add my .02


Good moon clips are more important the longer your brass and the less pointy your bullets are. I shoot short colts with pointy round nose bullets (think 9mm profile) and honestly can not tell the difference between the $10 ones and the $1 ones when I'm reloading. the cheaper ones do seem to get bent easier but are also easier to moon and de-moon.


The BMT Mooning tool is worth every penny, I cant recommend it enough, it seems expensive for what it does but it does it so well and so fast it truly is worth the cost.


Triggers are easy to do yourself. Wolf sells reduced rebound springs get the variety pack and find the one you like the feel of once you have adjusted the main spring to set off the primers of your choice. I will say that super light triggers are not as great as  super reliable ones, and many good shooters will trade a light pull for a more positive trigger return.  



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With respect to expensive moonclips, I think that if you buy the BMT Mooner tool, you can get away with fewer expensive clips because between stages, you can very quickly de-moon the good clips and refill them with that tool. Similar to topping off semi auto magazines. This is my theory anyway.



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I think you will be best off if you ditch the idea that CCIs will ever go in a DA revolver.  You are going to add close to 2# of trigger weight in some cases to ensure 100% reliability.  This depends on many variables from your loading practices to firing pin, cylinder fitment, and temperature. 


I have gone down that path before and you still get the occasional light strike even with an overly heavy trigger pull.  Buy winchesters which are readily available at all times and go from there. 


Now, if we're talking single action revolvers CCI is my first choice.  They have the best ignition over a wide temperature range.  I use them in all of my big bore single actions. 

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You can get the Apex parts hammer and springs and firing pin or power customs. When you go light you have to run the federal primers otherwise you just go click. You can arch your main spring to light off Winchesters but CCI's won't work. As far as moon clips go I run Revolver supply.As mentioned my brass is all Federal or Rem. The clips you buy have to fit the brass. Call George at Revolver Supply he can explain that to you. Get 15 to 20 clips that will let you load enough for most USPSA or ICORE matches

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On 3/28/2019 at 4:54 PM, RJH said:

The gun will be doing some double duty.  Also what are the chances of getting a working revolver, i see stories about smith, but the internet tends to blow things out of proportion


From my experience I've had no issues with the stock SW 929 or SW PC 4" 686 I just bought last year.  There is a distinct difference in the silkiness of the triggers or lack thereof with the PC 686 being the best SW trigger I've felt on a new model SW revo.  


My 686 doubles as my backpack gun also and I just love the balance and feel of the 4" barrel vs. the 6" 929.


I compete some, but am not a competitive revo shooter, so a top competition guy will have more insight for that route, especially once you start modding.

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On 3/30/2019 at 10:13 AM, Vincerama said:

With respect to expensive moonclips, I think that if you buy the BMT Mooner tool, you can get away with fewer expensive clips because between stages, you can very quickly de-moon the good clips and refill them with that tool. Similar to topping off semi auto magazines. This is my theory anyway.




Second vote for the BMT mooner.  Tough to swallow the initial price, but you can save the money spent on moonclips, not to mention the time saved loading them with the mooner.  Love mine.

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I went down this road about 15 years ago with my 625 PC. About everything above is valid and useful. I've bought and sold about a dozen different S&W revos including several with a Carmonized trigger including a 40 cal 610. I've done all the above and the only one I've kept is the 625 with a 5# Apex Competition trigger. In my opinion the pro trigger is the best upgrade I made to it. A world class trigger is the difference between OK and O MY! The down side is my 6 shooter isn't competitive anymore, too many standing reloads, etc. Then again, neither am I. One observation I can give is that most revo types seem to prefer the 5" or more version. I found that barrel length to be slow to transition for me so I settled on the 4". Just something to think about. Pics of my 625 attached. BTW, I cut off the left side the Hogue grip to give my thumb a resting ledge ala 1911 safety. I heartily recommend it.



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I second what Buckaroo said about barrel length.  If you can, it'd be great to test out the different lengths as I also found the 6.5" not as natural and quick for me in transitions, and didn't feel the need of that longer sight picture for accuracy.  Sweet spot for me is 4", but everyone is different.


Test drive if you can.

Edited by LifeisgoodSteve
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