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Increase Sear Lift?


SouperMan
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I have a very interesting problem that I resolved by fitting a new sear, but I’m not sure if this was the appropriate action, and would like some insight, how does one increase the sear lift on a Stock 2, if this is even possible?

 

I bought this Stock 2 used, and it has the following relevant components:

Xtreme Titan Hammer

Xtreme Trigger

Xtreme 1-wing Interruptor 

Stock Sear 

Stock Trigger Bar

Stock Sear Cage

14# Wolf Hammer Spring

 

I had hammer follow, and I quickly determined that it was a worn out/busted sear spring. A brand new sear spring looks somewhat flat with a almost 180 degrees with the two legs, but on my busted sear spring the short leg that goes in the sear pocket was bent 90 degrees and now the sear spring looked more like a L.

 

I proceeded to replace the sear spring with a Tanfoglio Stock sear spring, but now I find that the sear is dragging on the hammer. The hammer drops in both Single and Double Action, but the sear is lifting high enough to drop the hammer but dragging over the hammer hooks where you can feel it. I checked the trigger over travel screw and completely took it off, but it was still dragging. 

 

I checked the trigger plunger spring and it’s moving fine, everything was resetting properly too for DA/SA, and the trigger bar looked okay, too but the dragging remains.

 

I ended up fitting a brand new one-piece sear (non Xtreme, fitted just the safety leg) which is now lifting high enough to clear the hammer, but I also find that I don’t need the over travel screw at all now. I arrived at the conclusion to replace the sear, because the sear looks to be potentially the older sear that were tempered incorrectly or not enough, and it looked fairly polished but I could see slight deformation/indentations on the sear edge where it engages on the hammer hooks.

 

Any thoughts?

 

 

 

 

Edited by SouperMan
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Stock two piece sear sucks, thing should be ditched anyways. Sounds like you replaced it with the one piece sear and everything is ok? Then I wouldn't worry about it. Have you looked at the interruptor, plays factor in trigger break too. You state you have absolutely no over travel and don't need over travel screw now, is this in both DA and SA?

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Here's my understanding...

 

There is a "leg" on the sear that is moved by the trigger bar. To get more lift, it needs to make contact sooner and move further.  Several avenues available, the most common is to swap in different combinations of parts. Trigger, trigger bar, sear, sear cage to find the "magic" combination.

 

The more deterministic method is to tig weld more material, shape it to give desired result then harden the metal (without disturbing dimensions).

 

Yeah.... i swap parts around too! 

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Hey guys, thanks for the replies!

So I guess I should have clarified that I was already using a 1 piece sear, but I think@johnbu is right, there’s a noticeable different of metal taken off the bottom of the sear leg, and not sure if the previous owner fiddled with that area to improve the single action...

On closer look the sear spring I replaced appears to be some sort of reduced power sear spring, and I’m wondering if my lift issue would be “fixed” if I had a reduced power sear spring oddly enough.

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3 hours ago, SouperMan said:

Hey guys, thanks for the replies!

So I guess I should have clarified that I was already using a 1 piece sear, but I think@johnbu is right, there’s a noticeable different of metal taken off the bottom of the sear leg, and not sure if the previous owner fiddled with that area to improve the single action...

On closer look the sear spring I replaced appears to be some sort of reduced power sear spring, and I’m wondering if my lift issue would be “fixed” if I had a reduced power sear spring oddly enough.
 

 

Removing metal there delays sear lift and causes the trigger break to be further back on SA.  Some guys want that to fit smaller hands or just preference.

 

I doubt the lift issue would be impacted by sear spring tension. I would get a new sear if i thought somebody had been mucking about on it. Tanfo sears are only surface hard.  A rounded edge could slip off the hammer hooks and "excitement" could follow.

Edited by johnbu
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2 hours ago, Polymer said:

You're sure the trigger bar area that contacts sear leg isn't worn/rounded/polished/ground on too much?

Not having seen, handled, tested, inspected or evaluated the gun I'm NOT sure about anything!  

 

Yes, the trigger bar can be over polished or worn to yield the same result.   i was responding to his comment that the sear leg looked shorter. If it looks odd.... It is probably odd. Sear is a "danger part" that if damaged or worn or messed with, can allow unintentional discharge.  So, my opinion is to replace any suspect sear.  Right or wrong, it's just how i go about things. 

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