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Henning Trigger in LC


Glenzo

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I have a Limited Custom Xtreme in .40 which I have installed a Henning short trigger in. I have no instructions on adjusting it or cant find any on youtube. There are 2 problems which have cropped up. A few times when racking the slide with a full mag the hammer has only gone to half cock. One other time I fired a shot and another shot went of immediately after without me seemingly pulling the trigger.

I'm sure I dont have it adjusted properly and the reset seems short. I have 3 springs but they make little difference in trigger pull. It is running at 1lb- 7oz now. Any suggestions on what I should be doing to correct this?

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I have the same setup , but in the 9mm.  you may want to email Henning and ask for his advice, he normally replies pretty quick.

 

The screw on top of the trigger adjust the over travel, The Screw in front of the trigger is the pre travel. 

 

i can only share what i have experienced, but still recommend you email Henning, only due to there could be some minor adjustments to the sear needed pending the setup you have.

 

so for the over travel, i have it about 75% down, i did have to use some loctite for the screw it would work it self out and cause the slide to jam on it, that was may error in the install.

 

for the pretravel, i have it as far as i can adjust to have minimal and as close to zero pre travel as possible, but it is pretty tricky for me to get it to zero pre travel, for as i get it closer to zero, then the trigger doesn't reset, but i also never modded the sear either to accommodate for zero pre travel.

 

And i aslo have to ensure that i test the adjustments fully assembled, for if it is partial takendown , it doesn't react in the same when you rack it by hand.  i did make one mod to the trigger, which i don't have a pic at the moment, but you can adjust the pre travel with the gun assembled, that was a small little side project.

 

For the 1st question, not sure the possible cause, but it might be the sear needing to be adjusted

For the 2nd question, hard to say if it is a short reset and a actual double tap, or a true malfunction

 

there are some great folks on here that may have some links to youtube and better advice to share,

 

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Hi Wally and thanks for your detailed answer. Judging by your pic my adjustment is similar to yours although I have more pre travel than what you probably have. Emailing Henning is a good idea though.

I went to the range tonight and noticed that my hammer fell to half cock twice after applying the safety. Something is out of adjustment and I'm not sure if it is the trigger or a worn safety causing the half cock problem. Maybe the hooks are not catching on the sear properly.

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I'm thinking that too. Thats why I went with the Henning trigger because the stock trigger had too much pre travel and I couldnt adjust it out. I'm just not sure what the relationship should be between pre travel and after travel on the Henning.

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Always check overtravel by confirming that the hammer moves freely and isn't contacting the sear. To test: Hold the hammer back. Pull the trigger. Keep the trigger held. Move the hammer slowly back and forth. You shouldn't feel any steps. If you do you have too little overtravel and the hammer and sear are contacting.

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You need more overtravel than that.  If it's "perfect" and just clears with no contact whatsoever then you still have too little overtravel... one little speck of gunk reducing the overtravel by an infinitesimal amount will put you in the land of a dead trigger during a match.  (I've been down that road a couple of times.)  I now like to be able to see a tiny sliver of darkness between the hammer step/sear interface when the trigger is pulled all the way to the rear and I manually move the hammer back and forth through the part of the travel where the sear release/reset should be occurring.  You're not going to win any match because you got the last 0.1mm of overtravel out of the trigger, but you absolutely might lose it because you went 0.1mm too far.  

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2 hours ago, ATLDave said:

You're not going to win any match because you got the last 0.1mm of overtravel out of the trigger, but you absolutely might lose it because you went 0.1mm too far. 

 

 

^^^ This .   x100

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On 3/21/2019 at 12:11 PM, ATLDave said:

You need more overtravel than that.  If it's "perfect" and just clears with no contact whatsoever then you still have too little overtravel... one little speck of gunk reducing the overtravel by an infinitesimal amount will put you in the land of a dead trigger during a match.  (I've been down that road a couple of times.)  I now like to be able to see a tiny sliver of darkness between the hammer step/sear interface when the trigger is pulled all the way to the rear and I manually move the hammer back and forth through the part of the travel where the sear release/reset should be occurring.  You're not going to win any match because you got the last 0.1mm of overtravel out of the trigger, but you absolutely might lose it because you went 0.1mm too far.  

Good info, any chance you could do a video, i think it would be very helpful.

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Anyone know the size of the set screw for the over travel? I would like to put a longer one in, The screw isn’t long enough for me to set the trigger where I want it, so I have it loctite’d as far down as I feel comfortable with knowing it won’t work itself loose and come out.

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19 minutes ago, Craig0ry said:

Anyone know the size of the set screw for the over travel? I would like to put a longer one in, The screw isn’t long enough for me to set the trigger where I want it, so I have it loctite’d as far down as I feel comfortable with knowing it won’t work itself loose and come out.

 

You leaving a full turn of extra space past zero overtravel, correct? Too little overtravel is the #1 problem people run into with self-tuned tanfos.

 

You will not notice an extra turn’s worth of overtravel when shooting. Promise. I tried overtravel removal in my G34, M&P, and Tanfo. Keep a full turn. Red loctite it there, don’t trust blue.

 

(And hopefully someone will be along shortly with your setscrew size.)

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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36 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:

 

You leaving a full turn of extra space past zero overtravel, correct? Too little overtravel is the #1 problem people run into with self-tuned tanfos.

 

You will not notice an extra turn’s worth of overtravel when shooting. Promise. I tried overtravel removal in my G34, M&P, and Tanfo. Keep a full turn. Red loctite it there, don’t trust blue.

 

(And hopefully someone will be along shortly with your setscrew size.)

It doesn’t come anywhere close to the stopping after the trigger breaks, I would guess I still have 3mm or more or travel before the trigger stops, but when/if I do find a longer screw I’ll be sure to leave an extra turn in it. 

Edited by Craig0ry
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Maybe i am confusing myself, but isn't the over-travel the screw on top of the trigger and the pre-travel in front of the trigger?  So far the screw that was too short for me was the one in front of the trigger, which i replaced with an aftermarket to help with not having enough thread to keep it secure.

Edited by wally0206
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1 hour ago, wally0206 said:

Maybe i am confusing myself, but isn't the over-travel the screw on top of the trigger and the pre-travel in front of the trigger?  So far the screw that was too short for me was the one in front of the trigger, which i replaced with an aftermarket to help with not having enough tread to keep it secure.

 

mine came with 4 screws - 2 in the trigger and 2 longer ones in the bag

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Which way should I be turning the top screw to increase over travel?  If I measure from the top of the trigger to the bottom of the screw where it sticks out I get .305.

If I pull the trigger all the way back and move the hammer back and forth it does not touch the sear.

If I pull it all the way back the bottom of the trigger just touches the inside of the trigger guard.

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34 minutes ago, Glenzo said:

Which way should I be turning the top screw to increase over travel?  If I measure from the top of the trigger to the bottom of the screw where it sticks out I get .305.

If I pull the trigger all the way back and move the hammer back and forth it does not touch the sear.

If I pull it all the way back the bottom of the trigger just touches the inside of the trigger guard.

 

left to increase over travel

 

tighten screw to remove over travel

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