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Q5 Match Steel Frame Mod list.

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LOK Grips is making grips now.  I should have some in a week or so, which I’ll be modifying for fit instead of destroying the stock grips.

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I am trying to mount a Romeo1 on the SF and didn't know that there standard plates don't match up!! Does anyone know of anybody making other plates for the SF?? thanks, JD

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LOK Grips just arrived and I hit them with a dremmel to better fit my fingers on the left side.  They're thin (hollow) on the backside, so you'd want to fill them with some epoxy or Acraglas before doing more taking much material out of them. They're also entirely hollow under the backstrap, but split in two and they would be more tricky if you wanted to use them as a base to make a smaller backstrap grip versus the stock grips.
 

IMG_3472.jpg

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Posted (edited)
21 minutes ago, Chrome308 said:

LOK Grips just arrived and I hit them with a dremmel to better fit my fingers on the left side.  They're thin (hollow) on the backside, so you'd want to fill them with some epoxy or Acraglas before doing more taking much material out of them. They're also entirely hollow under the backstrap, but split in two and they would be more tricky if you wanted to use them as a base to make a smaller backstrap grip versus the stock grips.
 

 

That is excellent info for someone who has never seen an SF in person and wants to modify a grip for his girl someday.

 

Are the factory grips hollow or solid?

 

I’m not the slightest bit afraid to grind the hell out of something I paid $100 for after filling it with epoxy.

 

That was pretty much my plan for the factory grips, for her. Belt-sand them down to where they’d have been paper thin if not reinforced on the back with epoxy, then do a thin layer of silicon carbide grit on the outside.

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic

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Backstrap is hollow on the factory grip. I filled it with a acraglass before shaving it down for my wife. Then silicon carbide.  

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LOKs are split in two, and milled on the inside.  Definitely harder to fill, but not impossible.  The Walther grip flat on the inside and hollow at the back.

IMG_3475.jpg

WaltherQ5_Bogies_Black-02-s__83854.1563563853.jpg

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KeithWhite100's slightly heavier extractor spring.

 

Developed and designed by Keith so only available through this Walther Forums thread:

If you read through the entire thread (currently 19 pages), you will get all the history, details, research done, purpose, and results.

 

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A lot of good information here.  Thanks.  I finally bit the bullet and ordered a Steel Frame. Could someone post a picture of the hole you need to drill in the guide rod?  I want to make sure I put it in the right spot.  Thanks.

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It is right in the middle of the gr head.  Just match the factory one.  Once you see it, you'll know.  

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Thanks!  It seems obvious now that you said it.  I guess I would have realized that when I saw the gun.  Anxious to get it now.

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Posted (edited)

Just ordered LOKs.What’s the correct hex wrench for the ridiculously small holes in the grip screws?  I have a boxful of wrenches but either too loose or too big.

Edited by johes

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4 hours ago, johes said:

Just ordered LOKs.What’s the correct hex wrench for the ridiculously small holes in the grip screws?  I have a boxful of wrenches but either too loose or too big.


I believe its a tiny torx.  If the one I have says the size, its a font too small for my eyes to read.

Make sure you apply a lot of downward pressure to avoid stripping it.  I think there is some thread locker on those screws.

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Thanks.You can see the blue from inside the magwell

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I asked this question in the wrong thread, so I'm asking it again here.  Sorry for the repeat.  Do any of the flat wire recoil springs (Wilson, Glock, ISMI) fit on the stock PPQ SF guide rod?

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Posted (edited)

Not properly.  Some have bent the end of the flat wire to get it to fit over the hump at the end.  I just had on made.  Find a replacement gr for the Q5 and drill a hole in the end.  Then you can use .250" glock flat wire sporing. 

 

Some have used m&p guide rods and glock gr. The glock did not work as the head was too small and did not cycle correctly. 

Edited by echotango

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Thanks, echotango.  

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On 7/30/2019 at 12:16 PM, jdlincoln said:

 

What does the reduced striker spring have to do with RTB and reduced power recoil springs? Bear with me please, I'm more used to 1911's and my SF won't be here until end of the week. 

I have the 2 small sprinco springs and the ZR guiderod. Wilson flatwire 13# will be here about same time as pistol.

 

Thanks,

John

The Q5 SF cocks the striker in last 1/8" per Imaoldfart @ Waltherforums as it returns to battery.  If using reduced power recoil spring, less power to return, thus use reduced striker spring.  With a very weak recoil spring (Sprinco white) and stock striker spring, you can get a partial return to battery that still lets you pull the trigger, get a click, but no bang as releasing the sear and striker spring gets the slide to move fully into battery, but the striker doesn't have enough energy left to set off the primer.  Had that happen before using reduced striker spring.  

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turns out I don't need the reduced power striker spring. Stock works fine with my 130PF handloads and the ZR hole modified guiderod with a Wilson 13# flatwire spring.

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SF with SRO on it.

Shooting 147 SNS roundnose with 3 grains of Sport Pistol make 133 PF.

I'm using the stock guide rod and a 13 pound 1911 full size spring cut to 135 MM length. 

Gun is running fine so far with this setup over 200 rounds is all I have had time to shoot it so far with this setup.

Ran 300 with some factory I had laying around and stock guide rod and spring. No issues with that set up either.

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On 7/31/2019 at 6:36 PM, JDIllon said:

I am trying to mount a Romeo1 on the SF and didn't know that there standard plates don't match up!! Does anyone know of anybody making other plates for the SF?? thanks, JD

You'll need a RTS 2 C-more plate I think. At least you will with the Sig MAX.  Shooters Connection, Alpha Dynamics. But with the Sig Max or FTP Alpha 3, you'll need to mill a smidge from the slide in front of the plate.

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On 8/29/2019 at 8:31 PM, Bosshoss said:

SF with SRO on it.

Shooting 147 SNS roundnose with 3 grains of Sport Pistol make 133 PF.

I'm using the stock guide rod and a 13 pound 1911 full size spring cut to 135 MM length. 

Gun is running fine so far with this setup over 200 rounds is all I have had time to shoot it so far with this setup.

Ran 300 with some factory I had laying around and stock guide rod and spring. No issues with that set up either.

Wow, that's great. what brand 1911 spring are you using? So the inner diameter large enough for factory guide rod?  Is that flat wire? Thanks a lot

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12 hours ago, highhope said:

Wow, that's great. what brand 1911 spring are you using? So the inner diameter large enough for factory guide rod?  Is that flat wire? Thanks a lot

I think it was a Wilson but it shouldn't make any difference who makes it.

It is a round wire spring because that is what I had laying around.

Yes it fits over the stock guide rod.

BTW a Glock spring will fit over the stock guide rod if you cut the ends off as the end is slightly smaller.

A 13 pound Glock round wire spring cut to 135 mm length should work but I haven't tested that yet.

The Glock spring has a smaller ID but still fits over the guide rod.

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ZF guiderod with a 1/8" hole drilled in the rear center will accept a 13# Wilson Flatwire recoil spring from a 5" 1911. Runs my 130 PF handloads perfect. No malfunctions in 1000 rounds in my SF.

 

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