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himurax13

Q5 Match Steel Frame Mod list.

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Posted (edited)

Since it seems that mods for the Steel Frame are still being worked on, has anyone had any success so far? The APEX and Walther Expert Trigger upgrades should hopefully be ready in a few months, so it would be nice if we could combine a list of all the mods that people have gotten to work in the same place.

 

Personally, I tried installing a plastic Jager, steel, and Tungsten glock Gen 3 guide Rods with a Gen 4 adapters and it didn't work out so well and disassembly was a pain. I believe someone mentioned that a small hole needs to be drilled at the rear of the guide rod to fit onto the little nub on the barrel. Has anyone tried the Springer guiderod for the non X5 P320 or the P226 yet?

 

I also tried to swap out the spring in the firing pin block with either a Cajun or a reduced power glock spring but they were wider than the hole for the stock spring. I also polished the trigger bar, that didn't seem to do much. Has anyone tried swapping the striker spring yet?

 

I was able to swap out the trigger return spring from the Galloway Precision TP9 SFx spring kit and it dropped the trigger pull by a pound and it still had good feedback with the reset. I also discovered that the +2 Mecgar base pads fit on the 15 round mags and look flush with grips. However the back end of the basepad sticks out a little.

 

87b23d8ce26578c40363c8a162e318e3.jpg6385b2e5886adc19eda432bfab7a96dd.jpg60d7f08c9e4e813fd2601c4b81620ed7.jpg

Edited by himurax13

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Try polishing the safety plunger in the slide, the trigger bar pushes this up, use a light grease on there too.

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Just now, BritinUSA said:

Try polishing the safety plunger in the slide, the trigger bar pushes this up, use a light grease on there too.

I tried that as well and there was little to no difference.

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Posted (edited)

I made a guide rod after trying a Glock gr with no success. I also made an insert as the gr is only .250" to fit Glock ismi flat springs. 

Problem I have is that the slide is not locked up when cocked. See vid. 

 

 

 

55.jpg

566.jpg

 

 

 
Edited by echotango

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Posted (edited)

@echotango the “looseness” you show is normal for any striker gun with a 13lb recoil spring and a fullpower striker spring.

 

I’ve been running my PPQs like that for years without issue, even though it’s a little alarming at first. If it worries you a lot, try a 15lb spring.

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic

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Posted (edited)
2 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:

@echotango the “looseness” you show is normal for any striker gun with a 13lb recoil spring and a fullpower striker spring.

 

I’ve been running my PPQs like that for years without issue. If it worries you a lot, try a 15lb spring.

 

Thanks!  I shoot 2011's and this is my wife's.  If I change the striker spring, does it get better? It didn't do it in her m&p but I also changed the striker spring. 

Edited by echotango

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Just now, echotango said:

Thanks!  I shoot 2011's and this is my wife's.  If I change the striker spring, does it get better? It didn't do it in her m&p but I also changed the striker spring. 

 

A factory striker spring and a 13 in an M&P is actually worse than this. 😂

 

But it runs.

 

I like Walthers because I don’t have to jack with the striker springs in order to get a good trigger, so they detonate any primer a factory Glock will... which is EVERYTHING.

 

In my mind guys get messed over by a high primer going CLICK a lot more often than they drop points because their trigger wasn’t 2/3 pound lighter.

 

I left them heavy. It runs.

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Posted (edited)

I meant to say I did change it in the m&p.  Thanks, I'll leave it.  

Edited by echotango

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Echotango, did you drill a .120" wide hole at the rear of the guiderod?

 

Is your guiderod close to the dimensions of the non X5 P320?

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1 hour ago, himurax13 said:

Echotango, did you drill a .120" wide hole at the rear of the guiderod?

 

Is your guiderod close to the dimensions of the non X5 P320?

Yes.  I don't have a p320 so I do not know. 

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For those using Springco or center hole cut guide rods: any issues with takedown level not going completely closed after assembled? Operation seems fine but with but options for me the take down lever is up maybe 10-15degrees. Havnt lived fired with either yet.

 

 

 

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14 minutes ago, PokerNGuns said:

For those using Springco or center hole cut guide rods: any issues with takedown level not going completely closed after assembled? Operation seems fine but with but options for me the take down lever is up maybe 10-15degrees. Havnt lived fired with either yet.

 

 

 

It closes all the way on mine. Sometimes it stops a tad before but I then just push it down and it says.  

Did you make one or modify one?

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On 3/12/2019 at 10:10 AM, himurax13 said:

 

I also tried to swap out the spring in the firing pin block with either a Cajun or a reduced power glock spring but they were wider than the hole for the stock spring. I also polished the trigger bar, that didn't seem to do much. Has anyone tried swapping the striker spring yet?60d7f08c9e4e813fd2601c4b81620ed7.jpg

A stock M&P spring fits, but I think it is too soft. Have not fired it yet.

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Most interested in new (slimmer) grips.  Any aftermarket grips available yet?  An owner in the main thread did a fantastic job reducing and stipling the grip himself, but I don't possess that skill (and don't wish to learn it on a $1500 gun... ;-))

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Posted (edited)
46 minutes ago, NervousEnergy said:

Most interested in new (slimmer) grips.  Any aftermarket grips available yet?  An owner in the main thread did a fantastic job reducing and stipling the grip himself, but I don't possess that skill (and don't wish to learn it on a $1500 gun... ;-))

I called around and nobody has any current plans on making a grip. So I modified my wife's and it was pretty easy. I filled the hollow part with acraglas as I went way past stock size of the grip. 

 

IMG_20190303_094227.jpg.e6835a3b94d412bdcd15d59e1bc9ce07.jpg

Edited by echotango

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ZR Tactical uncaptured works well after drill hole in back. Running with Wilson 13# flat wire right now.

 

Also went back in with springco trigger spring. I slowly filed on the trigger safety until it was much easier to disengage without the perfect trigger placement but also will still pass safety inspection with ease for matches.

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ZR Tactical uncaptured works well after drill hole in back. Running with Wilson 13# flat wire right now.
 
Also went back in with springco trigger spring. I slowly filed on the trigger safety until it was much easier to disengage without the perfect trigger placement but also will still pass safety inspection with ease for matches.
Which one specifically did you use?

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

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3 hours ago, Prov1x said:

Thanks, I ordered one so we'll see how it goes. How deep did you drill the hole with 1/8" bit? 

Probably 1/8” deep also..eyeballed it to

match factory. 

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My mod list:

-trigger bar polish on contact points

-filed back trigger drop safety until clears frame with all trigger pulls, still functions with plenty of engagement

-reduced recoil spring - SSGR with dimple hoe drilled, 13# flat wire Wilson 5” 1911 spring.  Tried Sprinco dual spring system, white spring only works with reduced striker spring, great on recoil and dot stabilization, but still had some return to battery issues, so sticking with single spring system.

-Sprinco reduced striker spring, helps return to battery with reduced recoil springs

-Sprinco spring kit for PPQ.  This and striker spring not in online catalog, but call and ask.  Most important mod is the reduced striker block spring in this kit, takes all the grit out of the trigger pull.  Also has reduced sear spring, I think.  Challenge reassembling sear, optional mod for little gain.  

-Sear set screw mod - minor mod that decreases sear interface, slight reduction in sear travel and pull weight

-Grip reduction at upper 1/4 to improve trigger reach for my hands.  Take grip off gun and use curved file to thin it where your trigger finger goes, and thumb path to mag release.

-Sight plate mounting screw protrudes into extractor recess, filed down to flush to avoid any interference with extractor.  

-Increased tension on extractor by putting slight curve to increase extractor tension, had noticed occasional (1 per150 rounds)  double feeds with loose case in chamber, seemed to resolve after this tweak.  Did this before noticing screw, however.

-Barrel crowned

-relieved angles on front of slide bar under breechface

-Trijicon 3.25 dot

-Taylor Freelance +6 basepads and springs

 

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Just want to give credit to Alan at Sprinco. When I had a question about the installation of the 19172 RMS on a Saturday afternoon that I put in to the general Sprinco website, he responded back later that day and even followed up two more times that evening.  This wasn't an emergency and I'm no VIP, but customer service like that sure made me feel like Sprinco cares about their customer. Thanks again, Alan, you guys definitely have my business.  (Hope you don't start getting emails all weekend because of this.)

 

BTW, I installed their RMS and was quite happy with it and the 87886 safety plunger spring, as well.

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On 3/29/2019 at 9:15 PM, Zmaniac said:

Sprinco reduced striker spring, helps return to battery with reduced recoil springs

 

What does the reduced striker spring have to do with RTB and reduced power recoil springs? Bear with me please, I'm more used to 1911's and my SF won't be here until end of the week. 

I have the 2 small sprinco springs and the ZR guiderod. Wilson flatwire 13# will be here about same time as pistol.

 

Thanks,

John

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On 3/14/2019 at 1:16 PM, echotango said:

I called around and nobody has any current plans on making a grip. So I modified my wife's and it was pretty easy. I filled the hollow part with acraglas as I went way past stock size of the grip. 

 

I'm interested in this technique even tho my SF has yet to arrive. I'm used to std. thickness grips on a 1911 and I have smaller male hands. Could you provide a bit more detail on your process?

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