XL6504ME Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 I'm getting a frequent primer drawback, decaping station knocks most of them out but not all, die is adjusted correctly as far as I can tell, I'm constantly watching the primer cup to make sure the spent primer drops, loading 5.56 / 223 mixed military and standard brass, seems dangerous as the spent primer gets sucked back in the live primer is smashed into it. never know it happens until it drops into the bin . starting to wonder if I made a mistake buying the 1050.... seems like I cant get thru 100 rounds without some sort of jam or failure. mostly primer issues and case jams as it is loaded on the shell plate. I took the back clicker off tonight as it started acting up and jamming for some reason odd that it looks like it has been sanded on one side , appears bent and its stating to crack. My swage rod jam nut came loose and now the rod feels bent as it doesn't turn freely , rough night reloading pretty frustrated at the moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 4 hours ago, XL6504ME said: I'm getting a frequent primer drawback, decaping station knocks most of them out but not all, die is adjusted correctly as far as I can tell, I'm constantly watching the primer cup to make sure the spent primer drops, loading 5.56 / 223 mixed military and standard brass, seems dangerous as the spent primer gets sucked back in the live primer is smashed into it. never know it happens until it drops into the bin . starting to wonder if I made a mistake buying the 1050.... seems like I cant get thru 100 rounds without some sort of jam or failure. mostly primer issues and case jams as it is loaded on the shell plate. I took the back clicker off tonight as it started acting up and jamming for some reason odd that it looks like it has been sanded on one side , appears bent and its stating to crack. My swage rod jam nut came loose and now the rod feels bent as it doesn't turn freely , rough night reloading pretty frustrated at the moment. Take a file to the tip of the deprime pin. It’s a common die problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregJ Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 ^^ This. Make a 45* angle on the tip, and make sure there are no burrs. Also helps to attach vacuum to primer tube. Primer pull backs are why I process my brass first. Makes actual loading process sooooo much smoother. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiggerJJ Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 (edited) Primer pull back has nothing to do with a 1050, it can happen on any press, even a rock chucker! File the tip of the decap pin to a 45. Removing the rachet is the 1st thing you do to a 1050 when installing it. It causes more problems than it solves. It's purpose is driven by lawyers; it keeps you from shortstroking the press and making squibs. If you short stroke the press for any reason with the rachet removed, stop! Remove all cases from the press, fix the problem, and carefully reinsert the cases after inspecting each one for what it's position should be in the shell plate. (Or put them aside and disassemble them) Check that everything is tight when you start a loading session. That will help protect things from bending/breaking like your Swage rod. A lot is going on on a 1050, it takes a few hours to get comfortable with it, and get it fine tuned... Edited February 23, 2019 by RiggerJJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmiya Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 If you are using the primer pocket swaging at station 2 you should feel when a spend primer is pulled back into the primer pocket. The bottom stroke will feel different and shorter than normal when a primer is smashed by the swaging rod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XL6504ME Posted February 23, 2019 Author Share Posted February 23, 2019 Thanks for the reply's, I'm still trying to get the feel of this machine my 650 I have down but this one is a bit tougher. I talked to dillion today and they said to file it flat , why have other suggested on a 45 degree angle ? to a point?? I have noticed now that I think of it a little more pressure sometimes but just figured it was a case that maybe needed more sizing. Thanks !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hamiltonian Posted February 23, 2019 Share Posted February 23, 2019 I had that problem with a batch of once fired 9mm brass that I bought - it was a real hassle. I filed the decapping pin and did chants and dances around my 1050 but none of that helped. I think it might have been the mixed brass. It was damp when I got it, and maybe that had something to do with it. Again, after I suffered through depriming them all that first time, it never happened again, and I am on my 5th reloading of that same brass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V2plus25 Posted February 23, 2019 Share Posted February 23, 2019 I even had primer drawback issues loading on my 550B years ago. My solution was to buy a Lee sizing/depriming die and the primer drawback issues all but disappeared immediately. In fact out of the 22,500 rounds I loaded last year, I only had 5 or 6 that all got caught at the swaging station. As @pmiya indicated, on the 1050 any primer that does get drawn back should be caught at the swaging station if that is set up correctly. You'll feel the handle bounce at the bottom of the stroke instead of going all the way down to the bottom and stopping. If you have an autodrive like the Mark 7, the SwageSense will do this for you. The 1050 is a wonderful machine, and once you get the feel of it while loading you'll wonder how you ever loaded on anything else before. Take the time to set it up correctly and it'll run and run and run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V2plus25 Posted February 23, 2019 Share Posted February 23, 2019 When I talked to Dillon about it a few years ago, they indicated that silver primers like CCIs seemed to be the worst drawback offenders with their decapping pins. Dillon's newer sizing/depriming dies have a spring that supposedly helps keep the drawbacks to a minimum. But so far my Lee die has been working like a champ and I'm not inclined to change it until problems start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IHAVEGAS Posted February 23, 2019 Share Posted February 23, 2019 23 hours ago, RiggerJJ said: Removing the rachet is the 1st thing you do to a 1050 when installing it. I really can't think of any reason to remove one, being aware of it and pulling it back if neccessary is a thing. There must be a reason because this is not the first I've heard of people doing it, perhaps the fact that I'm strictly loading 9mm has to do with it never being a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powder Finger Posted February 23, 2019 Share Posted February 23, 2019 7 minutes ago, IHAVEGAS said: I really can't think of any reason to remove one, being aware of it and pulling it back if neccessary is a thing. There must be a reason because this is not the first I've heard of people doing it, perhaps the fact that I'm strictly loading 9mm has to do with it never being a problem. wait till a finger gets caught and try to get a the ratchet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IHAVEGAS Posted February 23, 2019 Share Posted February 23, 2019 2 minutes ago, Powder Finger said: wait till a finger gets caught and try to get a the ratchet Has that ever happened to anyone or are you just kidding? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiggerJJ Posted February 23, 2019 Share Posted February 23, 2019 53 minutes ago, IHAVEGAS said: I really can't think of any reason to remove one, being aware of it and pulling it back if neccessary is a thing. There must be a reason because this is not the first I've heard of people doing it, perhaps the fact that I'm strictly loading 9mm has to do with it never being a problem. Do what you wish, but the caliber you are loading has nothing to with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V2plus25 Posted February 23, 2019 Share Posted February 23, 2019 I didn’t remove the ratchet until adding the autodrive. When manually pulling the handle it never bothered me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted February 23, 2019 Share Posted February 23, 2019 (edited) 2 hours ago, IHAVEGAS said: I really can't think of any reason to remove one, being aware of it and pulling it back if neccessary is a thing. There must be a reason because this is not the first I've heard of people doing it, perhaps the fact that I'm strictly loading 9mm has to do with it never being a problem. Sorry. I’m in @RiggerJJ‘s camp. Delete the ratched immediately. It offers no advantage and is one less thing to mess with each time you clear a stoppage. Can’t imagine why anyone would leave it on. And I only load 9mm, just like you. Take one part out and disable it. Try it, you’ll like it. Edited February 23, 2019 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IHAVEGAS Posted February 23, 2019 Share Posted February 23, 2019 10 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said: It offers no advantage and is one less thing to mess with each time you clear a stoppage. OK, now I know why, I do not disable grip safeties either. Just different strokes for different folks I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Powder Finger Posted February 24, 2019 Share Posted February 24, 2019 20 hours ago, IHAVEGAS said: Has that ever happened to anyone or are you just kidding? no kidding at all. left fingers smashed and stuck now you have to figure a way to slightly lower the ram (more hurt) to clear the pawl and reach back and disengage the ratchet while keeping the handle still. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris777 Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 Buy a Mighty Armory decapping die. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarge Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 12 minutes ago, Chris777 said: Buy a Mighty Armory decapping die. Or a $15 LEE. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris777 Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 Lee works fine as do others, but just make sure you have extra decapping pins on hand. You will bend/break them at some point. In my experience, I have purchased $ more decapping pin replacements than the cost of a $40 dollar MA decapping die. Just my 2 cents. Whatever works best for you and your budget will be the best solution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenstone Posted February 26, 2019 Share Posted February 26, 2019 (edited) look here: https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/primer-pullback-to-the-extreme.846927/#post-11037121 Edit: I'm Tilos over there Edited February 26, 2019 by Kenstone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RePete Posted February 27, 2019 Share Posted February 27, 2019 And my solution Cut the pin off a bent Dillon decapping pin and file the barrel square. Then get a pack of Lyman decapping pins. To assemble, drop in the lyman pin, add the Dillon barrel and screw the cap back onto the stem. A picture is worth a thousand words. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V2plus25 Posted February 28, 2019 Share Posted February 28, 2019 On 2/25/2019 at 8:34 PM, Sarge said: Or a $15 LEE. Agree! Over 25000 rounds on the same decapping pin in the Lee die and no problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xfive Posted March 9, 2019 Share Posted March 9, 2019 A few strokes with a file to the tip of the decaping pin will solve that issue. Put a slight angle on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ziebart Posted April 27, 2020 Share Posted April 27, 2020 Are you all putting a 45* angle on the lee too? I have the lee universal die, but still get pull back with FC brass. I don't remember having and issue with it on the 650, but it's been a while since I processed brass. Learning the 1050 has been interesting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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