Chris777 Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 Hey 1050er's, Ran into an issue where some 9mm cases made thru to the primer station and caused a few untended "boom" issues. Trying to find a more fool proof way to removing the spent primers from 9mm cases. I have Mighty Armory decaping die and was thinking about installing this in station 2 (rezine/decap station) and then taking the decapping rod out of my resizing die and installing it in the swager station to both resize and act as a backer die for 9mm cases. Not sure if this setup will be any more foolproof in removing spent primers, but wondered if any one else has tried something similar and had good or poor success or thought it made any sort of difference in their reloading. Thanks... Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmz Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 When I process my brass that’s sort of what my set up is my first station is the mighty armory the second station sizing die with the de-capping then I go to the priming station and then my last is my expansion station this is what I do when I process and prime. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregJ Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 You probably got some pull backed primers, or ringers, which caused the kaboom. IMHO, The only real fool proof way to avoid this is to process your brass first. Or buy processed brass, or have someone process it for you. I load/process on an AmmoBot driven 1050, both 9mm and 45ACP. Process: Station 2: Lee universal decapping die with AB Berdan sensor. Lee pin ground to 45* and vacuum to pull primers off (these two things alone may help you a lot). Station 3: The Judge sensor, with Primer Pocket Probe. The Judge catches all sorts of bad stuff and tall cases, the probe catches primer pull backs, ringers, etc. Station 6: Dillon size die minus pin Station 8: EGW-U die minus pin Load: Station 2: Dillon sizing/decap die, just in case a non-processed piece of brass sneaks by. Station 3: Lyman Die in place of expander. Station 4. EGA primer hold-down die Station 5: powder drop with MBF PTX Station 6: MBF bullet drop Station 7: Dillon seat die Station 8: Dillon taper crimp die. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SweetToof Posted February 20, 2019 Share Posted February 20, 2019 I've heard of people sanding the tip of the decapper pin very slightly to give it more of a point rather than a dome, but have not tried myself. Had primer pull-back only a couple of times through 5k 9mm on my 1050. Pretty new to it though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris777 Posted February 20, 2019 Author Share Posted February 20, 2019 (edited) 22 hours ago, GregJ said: You probably got some pull backed primers, or ringers, which caused the kaboom. IMHO, The only real fool proof way to avoid this is to process your brass first. Or buy processed brass, or have someone process it for you. I load/process on an AmmoBot driven 1050, both 9mm and 45ACP. Process: Station 2: Lee universal decapping die with AB Berdan sensor. Lee pin ground to 45* and vacuum to pull primers off (these two things alone may help you a lot). Station 3: The Judge sensor, with Primer Pocket Probe. The Judge catches all sorts of bad stuff and tall cases, the probe catches primer pull backs, ringers, etc. Station 6: Dillon size die minus pin Station 8: EGW-U die minus pin Load: Station 2: Dillon sizing/decap die, just in case a non-processed piece of brass sneaks by. Station 3: Lyman Die in place of expander. Station 4. EGA primer hold-down die Station 5: powder drop with MBF PTX Station 6: MBF bullet drop Station 7: Dillon seat die Station 8: Dillon taper crimp die. Very nice setup.. thanks for the info.. I have found even the MA decapping die can let some stubborn primed cases by. Had several that the MA decapper just punched a hold thru and the primer stayed. With the resizer in station 3 and using the dillion swager, its very easy to feel when a primer has not been ejected. Just need to slow things down and bit and pay more attention. Edited February 20, 2019 by Chris777 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1911onr Posted February 20, 2019 Share Posted February 20, 2019 When I process my brass that’s sort of what my set up is my first station is the mighty armory the second station sizing die with the de-capping then I go to the priming station and then my last is my expansion station this is what I do when I process and prime. The MA die is yuuuge!Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WaynePatrick Posted February 25, 2019 Share Posted February 25, 2019 (edited) On 2/20/2019 at 10:00 AM, Chris777 said: Very nice setup.. thanks for the info.. I have found even the MA decapping die can let some stubborn primed cases by. Had several that the MA decapper just punched a hold thru and the primer stayed. With the resizer in station 3 and using the dillion swager, its very easy to feel when a primer has not been ejected. Just need to slow things down and bit and pay more attention. If a pin gets thru a primer it means the primers are deteriorating. This is generally due to moisture. Dissimilar metals touching cause a galvanic corrosion which obviously weakens the integrity of the primer metal. Many of them end up with a punched out flat leaving the ring in the pocket. I’ve made a few changes to our pin design to help overcome some of the problems you guys run into. Including a high polishing to the enhanced pin design. No pullbacks reported to me in more than 2 months and no ringers. We refer to the pin as our standard profile. Pics are on our website. Wayne Mighty Armory Edited February 25, 2019 by WaynePatrick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WaynePatrick Posted February 25, 2019 Share Posted February 25, 2019 On 2/18/2019 at 12:08 PM, Chris777 said: Hey 1050er's, Ran into an issue where some 9mm cases made thru to the primer station and caused a few untended "boom" issues. Trying to find a more fool proof way to removing the spent primers from 9mm cases. I have Mighty Armory decaping die and was thinking about installing this in station 2 (rezine/decap station) and then taking the decapping rod out of my resizing die and installing it in the swager station to both resize and act as a backer die for 9mm cases. Not sure if this setup will be any more foolproof in removing spent primers, but wondered if any one else has tried something similar and had good or poor success or thought it made any sort of difference in their reloading. Thanks... Chris 9mm can be a royal pita. Try our .057 pin. Many of my customers are having great success with it on 9 and 40. Slow down to -1500 and your problem should be solved. also check out our new Shorty Decapping and Backer Dies. They’re made specially for auto. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shakin_bakin Posted June 12, 2019 Share Posted June 12, 2019 (edited) On 2/18/2019 at 11:08 AM, Chris777 said: Hey 1050er's, Ran into an issue where some 9mm cases made thru to the primer station and caused a few untended "boom" issues. Trying to find a more fool proof way to removing the spent primers from 9mm cases. I have Mighty Armory decaping die and was thinking about installing this in station 2 (rezine/decap station) and then taking the decapping rod out of my resizing die and installing it in the swager station to both resize and act as a backer die for 9mm cases. Not sure if this setup will be any more foolproof in removing spent primers, but wondered if any one else has tried something similar and had good or poor success or thought it made any sort of difference in their reloading. Thanks... Chris So on my 1050, I just tried using the Dillon decap and size in station 2. Then removed my stage rod and put a Lee universal decal to ensure any primer pull backs would get punched out. I made it through 100 rounds and had 7 primers knocked out by the universal die on stage 3. All ammo was loaded consistently and primers looked to be consistent as well. I may try and run this for a few thousand rounds this weekend. Edited June 12, 2019 by shakin_bakin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rlapid216 Posted June 12, 2019 Share Posted June 12, 2019 F&FB's swage rod supposedly locks up the press if there's a pull back or ringer. I'm planning to get on due to occasional pull backs I'm experiencing. Does anyone have first hand experience with this swage rod? http://fastandfriendlybrass.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=54 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mach1soldier Posted June 12, 2019 Share Posted June 12, 2019 (edited) 7 hours ago, shakin_bakin said: So on my 1050, I just tried using the Dillon decap and size in station 2. Then removed my stage rod and put a Lee universal decal to ensure any primer pull backs would get punched out. I made it through 100 rounds and had 7 primers knocked out by the universal die on stage 3. All ammo was loaded consistently and primers looked to be consistent as well. I may try and run this for a few thousand rounds this weekend. I run dual sizing dies. Works awesome and I have 50k loaded this way. The only downside is you lose your swaging function. Edited June 12, 2019 by mach1soldier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shakin_bakin Posted June 12, 2019 Share Posted June 12, 2019 7 hours ago, rlapid216 said: F&FB's swage rod supposedly locks up the press if there's a pull back or ringer. I'm planning to get on due to occasional pull backs I'm experiencing. Does anyone have first hand experience with this swage rod? http://fastandfriendlybrass.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=54 Yep. I've got it. It doesn't lock my press up. Maybe I have the tension to high though. I will tell you though, that rod is strong. I pulled my rod last night to try the double decapping setup and my rod looked brand new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shakin_bakin Posted June 12, 2019 Share Posted June 12, 2019 2 hours ago, mach1soldier said: I run dual sizing dies. Works awesome and I have 50k loaded this way. The only downside is you lose your swaging function. I was wondering how much that really matters on a 9MM case? Probably makes them all uniformed... but does it really matter? I was thinking I could chrono some rounds with and without and see if there was a difference in SD velocity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mach1soldier Posted June 12, 2019 Share Posted June 12, 2019 It doesn’t matter for quality of ammo or consistency in my opinion. 99 percent of the brass I buy isn’t crimped. So I’m not worried. If you get a bunch of military brass, you will have issues Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gviz Posted July 13, 2019 Share Posted July 13, 2019 On 2/19/2019 at 9:16 AM, GregJ said: You probably got some pull backed primers, or ringers, which caused the kaboom. IMHO, The only real fool proof way to avoid this is to process your brass first. Or buy processed brass, or have someone process it for you. I load/process on an AmmoBot driven 1050, both 9mm and 45ACP. Process: Station 2: Lee universal decapping die with AB Berdan sensor. Lee pin ground to 45* and vacuum to pull primers off (these two things alone may help you a lot). Station 3: The Judge sensor, with Primer Pocket Probe. The Judge catches all sorts of bad stuff and tall cases, the probe catches primer pull backs, ringers, etc. Station 6: Dillon size die minus pin Station 8: EGW-U die minus pin Load: Station 2: Dillon sizing/decap die, just in case a non-processed piece of brass sneaks by. Station 3: Lyman Die in place of expander. Station 4. EGA primer hold-down die Station 5: powder drop with MBF PTX Station 6: MBF bullet drop Station 7: Dillon seat die Station 8: Dillon taper crimp die. Hi GregJ, how do you setup the vacuum on station 2 thanks in advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RiggerJJ Posted July 13, 2019 Share Posted July 13, 2019 (edited) Wow, what a bunch of fluff just to load 9mm... All I have ever used is a U die size/decap in #1, Swage in 2, and prime and load all in one pass. Never had a primer pull back problem, maybe cause I dry tumble? Technically, my one pass, manual system is faster than a 2 pass automated setup, cause I load 900-1000rph...the 2 pass automated is maybe doing 1500rph divided by 2, = 750rph to get completed ammo. Plus the twice the handling of the brass... Oh yea, to answer the OP, putting a size die on the swage station will not allow the swage to work correctly. It needs the holding down action of the hold down die. A size die will let the swage push the case up further into the die, resulting in an incomplete swage. Edited July 13, 2019 by RiggerJJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregJ Posted July 15, 2019 Share Posted July 15, 2019 (edited) On 7/13/2019 at 4:39 PM, RiggerJJ said: Never had a primer pull back problem, maybe cause I dry tumble? Technically, my one pass, manual system is faster than a 2 pass automated setup, cause I load 900-1000rph...the 2 pass automated is maybe doing 1500rph divided by 2, = 750rph to get completed ammo. Plus the twice the handling of the brass... Agree that handling brass twice can be a PITA. However, I still argue that overall it is faster, and more importantly very brass related stoppages during loading. I process 9m about 3500 CPH, this ensures that when I start loading, the brass is squared away, and will not have to deal with any Berdans, junk inside cases, 380 mixed in, etc, etc. When I load with my AB, it lopes along at about 2500 CPH. I can easily crank it up higher, but dont feel the need to. YMMV. ADD: If you manually load, then yes it is easier to deal with brass issues (Berdans, etc) during loading. However once you automate, using processed brass really makes the loading process less problematic, and highly recommended. On 7/12/2019 at 10:44 PM, Gviz said: Hi GregJ, how do you setup the vacuum on station 2 thanks in advance I run the primer drop tube into a the lid of a 1 Gal paint bucket, then a hose into the same lid from a HD Bucket Head vacuum (fits on top of any 5 gal bucket). The primers stay in the 1G bucket instead of being sucked into the vacuum. There's lots of ways, mine is just one. It really doesnt take a lot of vacuum force. You also need to make sure you have a good seal between the press frame and the bracket that holds the primer drop tube. Edited July 15, 2019 by GregJ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oteroman Posted July 15, 2019 Share Posted July 15, 2019 Pictures of that vacuum set-up please. Visual Guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregJ Posted July 15, 2019 Share Posted July 15, 2019 18 minutes ago, oteroman said: Pictures of that vacuum set-up please. Visual Guy Will post a few tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pjb45 Posted July 27, 2019 Share Posted July 27, 2019 I am Not the sharpest knife in the drawer. Station 1 standard sizing and de capping die. Stage 2 Lee or EGW undersized die. Took took the swage off. Don’t use it. But I have 2 dies ensuring de-capitation. On 223 I do separate distinct processes. Bottle neck cases require much more attention to processing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClayBuster Posted August 7, 2019 Share Posted August 7, 2019 On 6/12/2019 at 12:00 AM, rlapid216 said: F&FB's swage rod supposedly locks up the press if there's a pull back or ringer. I'm planning to get on due to occasional pull backs I'm experiencing. Does anyone have first hand experience with this swage rod? http://fastandfriendlybrass.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=54 That's what I use, it doesn't lock the press up but you sure know something is right, since I've started grinding a small angle on the tip of the decapping pin I rarely get any pull backs now. I also prep the brass first so there's no live primers on the first run. When I look at that 5 gallon bucket full of brass I really wish I decided to have kids, I'm pretty sure that why my dad made me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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