bofe954 Posted February 16, 2019 Share Posted February 16, 2019 Double action works fine. If I rack the slide hard, or thumb the hammer back it is fine. If I gently work the slide, it's like the hammer needs to be pushed back just a hair more. The trigger just does not move. Haven't had a chance to live fire it this way, not sure I want to bother... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fo0 Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 seems as though your disconnector would be one that needs a little fitting Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoRivera Posted February 17, 2019 Share Posted February 17, 2019 Have you adjusted the trigger's over travel screw? Oftentimes a CZ's double-action break will be a little earlier in the trigger's rearward travel than for single-action, and if the trigger needs to travel back more the over travel screw (if there is one) can be blocking it. I noticed when I had a Shadow 2 that the trigger had to go back farther than on Shadow 1's I had, and I like my trigger break a little farther out so I got rid of the Shadow 2. But as Fo0 mentioned, the disconnector may need some fitting as well. Here's an example.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bofe954 Posted February 17, 2019 Author Share Posted February 17, 2019 20 hours ago, Fo0 said: seems as though your disconnector would be one that needs a little fittin 2 hours ago, MoRivera said: Have you adjusted the trigger's over travel screw? Oftentimes a CZ's double-action break will be a little earlier in the trigger's rearward travel than for single-action, and if the trigger needs to travel back more the over travel screw (if there is one) can be blocking it. I noticed when I had a Shadow 2 that the trigger had to go back farther than on Shadow 1's I had, and I like my trigger break a little farther out so I got rid of the Shadow 2. But as Fo0 mentioned, the disconnector may need some fitting as well. Here's an example.... My method of adjusting the trigger over travel screw is to take it out and throw it away, so it isn't that. I am paging through the Atlas thread. Without it I wouldn't dare touch these things. I know it is the disco somehow, just was wondering if someone could tell what surface to work. Cajun could probably tell me too. Whatever it is, it isn't very far off. Debated just putting some rounds through it to see if it settled in. I am guessing shooting it would be enough to reset it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bofe954 Posted February 17, 2019 Author Share Posted February 17, 2019 Think I found it... https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/191773-cz-tuning-101-with-professor-atlas/?do=findComment&comment=2236782 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoRivera Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 (edited) 5 hours ago, bofe954 said: Think I found it... https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/191773-cz-tuning-101-with-professor-atlas/?do=findComment&comment=2236782 If you mean this surface.... That effects reset, not trigger break. It's possible your trigger is not resetting enough, so then yeah that surface has to be taken down. But this is the part I meant.... On 1/27/2019 at 10:18 PM, MoRivera said: It may be an issue with the disconnector. Sometimes the 'wings' need to be ground down slightly on the bottom for it to clear the trigger bar so that the single action can break normally. If you look at this animation below..... You can see how the trigger bar (light blue) kind of tilts at the very end and slips by the lugs (wings) on the green 'hook' attached to the hammer, which is the disconnector. Sometimes the trigger bar won't clear the lugs, and when this happens, it can feel like the trigger doesn't pull back far enough to drop the hammer. This is where some custom disconnectors like from Cajun Gun Works have to be fitted, even a slight amount like .008" honed down to clear the trigger bar. CZ's have varying degrees of play in their sear cages....and that could sometimes require some more fitting of the disconnector. Did you change any parts after getting the gun, like the manual safeties? Edited February 18, 2019 by MoRivera Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoRivera Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 The surface I'm referring to is 'C' in this pic.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fo0 Posted February 20, 2019 Share Posted February 20, 2019 Do you need the 'wing' in SAO? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
himurax13 Posted February 20, 2019 Share Posted February 20, 2019 50 minutes ago, Fo0 said: Do you need the 'wing' in SAO? No, however, you don't really need a disconnector with SAO. On my recent build, I took a CGW type 3 disco, hacked off the wing and fitted area a from two posts above,to shorten the static reset. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bofe954 Posted February 20, 2019 Author Share Posted February 20, 2019 On 2/17/2019 at 9:28 PM, MoRivera said: If you mean this surface.... That effects reset, not trigger break. It's possible your trigger is not resetting enough, so then yeah that surface has to be taken down. But this is the part I meant.... I did not change the safeties. That moving diagram is helpful. Might be C. Is there any way to test which surface it could be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoRivera Posted February 21, 2019 Share Posted February 21, 2019 When you cock the hammer manually and can pull the trigger to release, how much pre-travel before the break is there? Any? When you cock the hammer, you can put a piece of tape by the trigger and mark where a vervain point is (like the tip), and then later when you work the slide slowly, see if the trigger resets back to that point. If not, then it could be surface A. That often has to be ground down some to allow the trigger bar more forward to more reliably reset the trigger in single action. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bofe954 Posted February 21, 2019 Author Share Posted February 21, 2019 There is pretravel, then the trigger is a little creepy, then it breaks. Seems to work better with the slide off. When I gently work the slide, the single action does not work. If I am really violent with the slide, it will work. If I take the slide off, I can always get the SA to work, I cannot slowly cock the hammer manually and not have it work. I cannot replicate the SA not working with the slide off. Would the slide pushing the trigger bar down cause the SA to not work if surface C needed work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Millerslaw Posted August 30, 2019 Share Posted August 30, 2019 I am having the same issue - did you ever get this resolved? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bofe954 Posted August 31, 2019 Author Share Posted August 31, 2019 I did, it was surface A in the diagram. If you compare your aftermarket sear to the stock one you may get a feel for what surfaces are the most different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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