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BiteTheBullet

S&W Trigger should this be stoned down or stay

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TRIGGER.jpg.4f54447cfbd271116c837ab5305613d0.jpg

 

Where the hammer engages the sear there is this bump on my 627 trigger. Should it be stoned flat so that the engagement is across the entire face or leave it alone?

All the instructions I have seen say that the face should be stoned smooth not really removing material.

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Did you have a trigger job done?

How is it?

Any problems?

 

Don't fix what isn't broken.  I never touch that.

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Apex did the trigger on my 625 years ago and it looked like a country road but pulled at 5 1/2 pounds and was silky smooth. I figgered out the key is minimum contact between trigger surfaces. I was told by a local 'smith just knock down any obvious high spots and work the stone in the direction of sear disengagement. All these years later and 10K+ rounds it's still under 6 pounds. Also had a Carmonized 627 that was at least as good as the Apex that had the same appearance, i.e. NOT a mirror polish as I had pictured a superior trigger job. Stoned smooth and not removing any metal seems an oxymoron to me. I can grasp the concept but then I'm just a hobby shooter. I can say that in the heat of competition I have no recollection of how smooth / light the trigger pull was. As I've gotten older and slower I'm a bit more aware but not much.

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1 hour ago, BiteTheBullet said:

TRIGGER.jpg.4f54447cfbd271116c837ab5305613d0.jpg

 

Where the hammer engages the sear there is this bump on my 627 trigger. Should it be stoned flat so that the engagement is across the entire face or leave it alone?

All the instructions I have seen say that the face should be stoned smooth not really removing material.

That’s for going fast. I call it a speed bump. 

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What is the intended purpose of the speed bump and the reason for it?

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That "speed bump" is what brings down the cylinder stop so that the cylinder can rotate. 

 

It's very important, don't mess with it unless you want to brick yo gun, yo. 

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+1  A few strokes of a stone or file on that "bump" will quickly render your gun useless.  

 

I have purchased enough used S&W parts on eBay to learn why some are for sale in the first place.  Two common errors seem to be over polishing on case hardened surfaces and removing metal unnecessarily.  I have one speed trigger which is practically useless due to a combination of both, hence why it cost me $2.    

 

Much of the time factory parts do not need refit, as in reshaped with files or stones.  They simply need deburred, or lightly polished.  Take some time to study the action before you remove any metal.  It's a one way process for the most part.

 

Edited by Alaskan454

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Alex MC is tight on target. 

 

The new MiM parts need that bump. The old forged parts don’t have it. 

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I'm so confused, are we talking about hammer and sear, or are we talking about cylinder stop?

 

https://www.brownells.com/handgun-parts/trigger-group-parts/sear-parts/sears/sear-for-mim-hammer-prod14709.aspx

 

The sear sits inside the hammer and is retained through spring pressure.

 

Your photo is of a trigger and hand.

 

What's in focus in the photo is the hand, which rotates the cylinder, and the top rear of the trigger that engages the sear for double action.

 

Also pictured is the part of the trigger that makes the cylinder stop move out of the way at the correct moment, in tune with when the hand is just about to turn the cylinder. I assume you're talking about that? Maybe?

 

Where are you getting your instructions from?

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