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Gas Valve Spring Compressor for 1301??


BravoKilo

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Curious if anybody has found a commercially available spring compressor that will work for swapping out the gas valve springs on the 1301? Picked up a Comp recently and am having issues cycling lighter loads. Have new 1301 Tac springs on the way and found an older thread with a DIY solution, but unfortunately don't have any good way to bend steel to make a compressor myself. Was originally thinking an overhead valve spring compressor but the jaws aren't long enough, not to mention the screw knob is too large and hits the barrel. Anybody use a jaw puller with success perhaps?

 

Thanks!

Edited by BravoKilo
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7 hours ago, GringoBandito said:

I have never had an issue with mine running light loads but I did break the gun in using HV loads and I have heard others have done the same thing with success. How many rounds do you have through it? 

 

Still relatively new but at this point probably 250 rounds or so. Ran a bunch of slugs and turkey loads through it thinking it might help but to no avail.

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1 hour ago, BravoKilo said:

 

Still relatively new but at this point probably 250 rounds or so. Ran a bunch of slugs and turkey loads through it thinking it might help but to no avail.

 

Bummer. I found a video that gives you a good idea what compressor can be used.  Aren't there auto parts stores that loan tools? Autozone? Oreilly?   

 

http://www.practical-shotgun.com/beretta-1301-gas-valve

Edited by GringoBandito
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13 hours ago, CharlieD said:

I would just keep shooting it and reassess after 1-2k.  What load are you having issues with?  

 

Not quite surprisingly Remington Gun Club light target loads. Not a major issue but did just stock up on a few cases from Dunham's recently.

 

A bit more concerning is with Federal Personal Defense 00 Buck. Has enough oomph to cycle but not lock back on last round. Again not a huge deal breaker as my 870 can fill the HD role, or just run the Federal Tactical 00 Buck that works fine... Just a bit of a let down as I was hoping to use the 1301 for multiple roles

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  • 1 year later...
On 1/7/2019 at 12:57 PM, BravoKilo said:

Not quite surprisingly Remington Gun Club light target loads. Not a major issue but did just stock up on a few cases from Dunham's recently.

 

Sorry for the necro bump here. BravoKilo, did you ever get your 1301 Comp figured out? I am having similar problems with light loads failing to cycle. I started off with the heavy stuff to break it in and it seems pickier about light loads than I would have expected based off all of the stellar reviews online etc.

 

Here was my progression:

Federal 1600 fps slugs - 25 or so cycled fine

Rio heavy target 1 1/8oz  1250fps - 125 out of 125 cycled fine

Fiocchi low recoil slug - tried 15 or so and about 10 failed to cycle

Remington STS 1 1/8oz 1150fps - mostly fine - ran 200 or so without memorable problems

Remington Gun Club 1 1/8oz 1150fps - maybe 60 out of 75 attempts failed to cycle a new shell into the chamber after firing - gave up and have the rest of a case left

Winchester AA 1 1/8ox 1200fps - so far 25 out of 25 cycled fine. If the others aren't consistent I'll keep running these at matches until they let me down

 

Edited by HoneyBadgr
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Depending of the age of your 1301 you may have a smaller wire gauge/weaker gas spring.  The link in Gringo Bandito's post above shows the spring compressor. 

 

http://www.practical-shotgun.com/543

This video shows the difference in springs and how to measure to determine which spring you have.  The weaker spring lets more gas escape which requires heavier powder charges to cycle the gun.

 

I don't know of a commercially available  spring compressor for the 1301, I had to make one similar to the one in the practical-shotgun video and you need the special wrench to remove the nut.

 

You can use this spring or make a spacer like in the video.  If you buy the spring listed for the 1301 Comp, you will get the same smaller wire gauge spring you already have.  The 1301 Tac spring is the larger wire gauge.  I've used the spacer in one gun and replaced the spring in another, either way works to cycle 1145 fps ammo.

https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/C95447

 

The wrench is this one.  Do not get the one with the pin, get the one with the hook.  Don't ask me how I know this!

GEDORE 34/36 No. 40

https://www.kctoolco.com/gedore-40-34-36-hook-wrench-with-lug-34-36-mm/

Edited by Ming the Merciless
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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks Ming. I appreciate all of the detail there. I checked my spring and it seems to be the thicker wire but maybe it's the short spring instead of the original full length one? It's hard to say the length without removing the spring from the assembly. I'll plan on shooting a larger variety of shells through my 1301 Comp when ammo supply becomes reasonable again. Until then I'll lean on the Win AA 1200FPS stuff I've got on hand to carry me through any matches in the next few months. Thanks!

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On 4/7/2020 at 3:44 PM, HoneyBadgr said:

 

Sorry for the necro bump here. BravoKilo, did you ever get your 1301 Comp figured out? I am having similar problems with light loads failing to cycle. I started off with the heavy stuff to break it in and it seems pickier about light loads than I would have expected based off all of the stellar reviews online etc.

 

Here was my progression:

Federal 1600 fps slugs - 25 or so cycled fine

Rio heavy target 1 1/8oz  1250fps - 125 out of 125 cycled fine

Fiocchi low recoil slug - tried 15 or so and about 10 failed to cycle

Remington STS 1 1/8oz 1150fps - mostly fine - ran 200 or so without memorable problems

Remington Gun Club 1 1/8oz 1150fps - maybe 60 out of 75 attempts failed to cycle a new shell into the chamber after firing - gave up and have the rest of a case left

Winchester AA 1 1/8ox 1200fps - so far 25 out of 25 cycled fine. If the others aren't consistent I'll keep running these at matches until they let me down

 

I see a trend here. Stick with 1200 fps or faster with 1 1/8 oz. of shot for the best results.

 

Winchester AA Heavy Target (1200 fps 1 1/8 oz. of shot) is my go to in the M2 and 1301. The 1145 fps load runs most of the time, but with the 1200 fps load ammo related issues are nonexistent.

Edited by GunCat
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On 4/7/2020 at 11:53 PM, Ming the Merciless said:

Depending of the age of your 1301 you may have a smaller wire gauge/weaker gas spring.  The link in Gringo Bandito's post above shows the spring compressor. 

 

http://www.practical-shotgun.com/543

This video shows the difference in springs and how to measure to determine which spring you have.  The weaker spring lets more gas escape which requires heavier powder charges to cycle the gun.

 

I don't know of a commercially available  spring compressor for the 1301, I had to make one similar to the one in the practical-shotgun video and you need the special wrench to remove the nut.

 

You can use this spring or make a spacer like in the video.  If you buy the spring listed for the 1301 Comp, you will get the same smaller wire gauge spring you already have.  The 1301 Tac spring is the larger wire gauge.  I've used the spacer in one gun and replaced the spring in another, either way works to cycle 1145 fps ammo.

https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/C95447

 

The wrench is this one.  Do not get the one with the pin, get the one with the hook.  Don't ask me how I know this!

GEDORE 34/36 No. 40

https://www.kctoolco.com/gedore-40-34-36-hook-wrench-with-lug-34-36-mm/

 

I found a commercial valve spring compressor that will work with about 10 minutes worth of modifications.  

$12 at Hazard Fraught

https://www.harborfreight.com/universal-overhead-valve-spring-compressor-60335.html or

https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Universal-Overhead-Spring-Compressor/dp/B07GQ52H9R

 

61XzuC1TVzL._AC_SX425_.jpg

 

Knock the Star handle off.  It's only held by a couple of small swages in the central shaft.  Remove the E-clip holding the square drive screw to the silver center piece.  Remove the snap ring and push the central shaft out of the puller.  Remove the square drive screw.  Drill and tap the head of the central shaft for a 1/4-20 or 1/4-28 screw.  Flatten the bent tabs in the silver center piece.  Re-install the central shaft, square drive screw, and snap ring.  Reverse the silver center piece and install it and the T bar over the square drive screw and re-install the E-Clip.  De-grease the 1/4" tapped hole and install a .500" or shorter 1/4" screw with Red Loctite and tighten firmly.  Let the Loctite set up and it's ready to use.

 

1301%20Spring%20Compressor%20001.jpg

 

1301%20Spring%20Compressor%20002.jpg

 

1301%20Spring%20Compressor%20003.jpg

 

Nolan

 

 

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  • 1 year later...

@Nolan

 

thanks a ton! I was able to make the same mods to the valve puller. Instead of drilling and tapping I just put a 15mm socket over the square end. I also made a socket to pull the retaining nut my gun.

 

this was for my a400 extreme unico, but the gassing is very similar to the 391s

 

the entire reason I removed this nut was my spring is not seating properly, but when I removed the nut, the spring seats fine so it’s not bent. I flipped the spring and it flared out less tan the picture. Gun has ran fine even with the spring acting odd. New springs are out of stock. Oh well

5EF2CF0D-7B0D-4360-A4A2-4F1EC0FCDF83.jpeg

06C858F9-B539-44F2-A9CD-0DE1D1648AAB.jpeg

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6 minutes ago, BoyGlock said:

weaker spring lets more gas escape which requires heavier powder charges to cycle the gun.”

 

does this mean the more used the gun spring gets the heavier the loads it will need to shoot reliably?

 

So far that has NOT been the case in mine which has a lot of rounds through it since I bought it in 2014.

 

Nolan

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