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Where are the 6# Recoil Springs ??


emjei

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According to your profile picture, looks like production guns (stock 2's?). I had 8# recoil springs in both my stock 2's and was getting failure to feeds. With 10# springs still get some ftf's but not near as bad as with 8#. 6# sounds too light

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6# worked for me in my heavily self tuned stock2.

might be worth considering buying extras, as I didn’t shoot production for very long and I could see the spring losing its strength over the course of a season.

I was shooting 135g bayou @ 130pf
Shooting 115/124s might make the slide travel a fraction faster and thusly beat up the gun as stated above.


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I shoot 147gr and 135gr at 130-133PF

Reason I want a 6# is because a friend with a Stock 2 Xtreme let me try his and it I liked it

Seems that Henning is the only store with them in stock but at a $3 raise

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According to your profile picture, looks like production guns (stock 2's?). I had 8# recoil springs in both my stock 2's and was getting failure to feeds. With 10# springs still get some ftf's but not near as bad as with 8#. 6# sounds too light
If the gun is well polished there is no issues at all

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If the gun is well polished there is no issues at all

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Interesting, I polished up parts in lower, and a bit on the upper. Maybe I need to go more on the upper than
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15 minutes ago, emjei said:

The rails ....fine sandpaper and a loooong movie

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Just strip the gun and put the bare slide on the bare frame.  Slather the rails with "Blue magic" or metal polish of choice and press down HARD and rack 100 times.  Then PULL UP hard and rack 100 times.  Then push left and right and rack 100 more each.  The rails will be polished and very very little material will be removed, yet it will be smooth as glass.

I almost never use sand paper on anything gun related

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Just strip the gun and put the bare slide on the bare frame.  Slather the rails with "Blue magic" or metal polish of choice and press down HARD and rack 100 times.  Then PULL UP hard and rack 100 times.  Then push left and right and rack 100 more each.  The rails will be polished and very very little material will be removed, yet it will be smooth as glass.
I almost never use sand paper on anything gun related
Agree with John...... I used a combination of both

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2 hours ago, DKnoch said:
2 hours ago, emjei said:
 

Interesting, I polished up parts in lower, and a bit on the upper. Maybe I need to go more on the upper than

 

Careful. 

Ammo needs to be right. 1.13 RN seems to be very right for my guns. 

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I used blue magic and did the slide racking. I don't think I pushed each direction hard though while doing it. Definitely smoothed up when I did it though. I didn't get chamber reamed, my ammo is shorter than that. I cannot recall oal off the top of my head though

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Dknoch,

Rib running from center of slide from breech face and face of hammer, both need to be polished up well. They make contact and cause tons of friction, slows down slide, even worse if you use heavier hammer spring. 

Edited by Polymer
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The one that Henning sells is the 6# Long Slide (=8#)

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From his website: “ The Wolff springs have a different length than the factory spring, because the coil diameter (not coil length) regulates the recoil.

For 9mm we suggest 6lb or 8lb recoil spring. (lighter than factory; makes for faster target acquisition)”

I don’t remember seeing on the package that the one I have is long slide?
I know for sure the “6#” is definitely lighter than the 8,10,12# springs that I purchased prior.



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From his website: “ The Wolff springs have a different length than the factory spring, because the coil diameter (not coil length) regulates the recoil.

For 9mm we suggest 6lb or 8lb recoil spring. (lighter than factory; makes for faster target acquisition)”

I don’t remember seeing on the package that the one I have is long slide?
I know for sure the “6#” is definitely lighter than the 8,10,12# springs that I purchased prior.



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Also from his site.... (thats why I think he sells the 6#LS.....see the ***)

Recoil springs are compatible with standard slides:  using a long slide recoil spring in a standard slide adds 2lbs pressure.  (If you have a Steel/Poly Compact model, these recoil springs will not fit.  Wolff does not yet have a recoil spring for the compact.)

***Wolff marks all the springs with 9mm long slide***, but they work with all calibers. The spring weight dictates what caliber/type of ammo you’re shooting

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For the light poundages, that is pretty accurate.  But if you get a 8 pound LS it has a high probability of causing short stroke due to coil bind in a standard length slide.

 

I trim 6 pound LS springs to the length of an 8 pound standard spring.  The cut end goes in the spring cup.

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For the light poundages, that is pretty accurate.  But if you get a 8 pound LS it has a high probability of causing short stroke due to coil bind in a standard length slide.
 
I trim 6 pound LS springs to the length of an 8 pound standard spring.  The cut end goes in the spring cup.
Will it become a true 6# ????

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Will it become a true 6# ????

 

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Hard to say if it’ll be a true 6#

I agree with John, it’s best to take off the top end, test the recoil spring assembly to see if it fully cycles or if it stops on the spring (being too long)

 

Then check if your gun feeds/recoils the way you want.

 

I do that with all my guns, especially with a stroked open gun.

 

Normally I check all my 1911 springs in a spring tester... many are +/- what the package says they are supposed to be.

The tanfo springs are smaller diameter and don’t fit in my spring tester, sadly.

Need to find another bolt to test with.

 

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