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Walther new steel frame competition Q5


mikeAZ

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3 hours ago, lcs said:

 

How is that going to relieve the problem?  I read that before. 

 

 I don’t own a metal gun - I prefer the poly frames because that’s what carry and what I want to master. I’m just repeating what someone else says works.

 

Apparently there’s a dimple on the takedown lever that needs to fit into a detent in the head of the rod. That’s what I read. On the interent. In this post. Aaaaand that’s all I’ve got on this one. 😂

 

3 hours ago, lcs said:

Walther sent me a plastic guide rod with a 13lb spring (they say it’s 13) I doubt it's 13 also..

 

Well their PPQs all come with a 17ish pound spring their engineers keep saying is 11 pounds. So yeah. I wouldn’t go by their testimony.

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5 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

 

 I don’t own a metal gun - I prefer the poly frames because that’s what carry and what I want to master. I’m just repeating what someone else says works.

 

Apparently there’s a dimple on the takedown lever that needs to fit into a detent in the head of the rod. That’s what I read. On the interent. In this post. Aaaaand that’s all I’ve got on this one. 😂

 

 

Well their PPQs all come with a 17ish pound spring their engineers keep saying is 11 pounds. So yeah. I wouldn’t go by their testimony.

The SF has a take down lever that has a little knob that come engage into the guide rod "dimple" when you lock it. If you use an aftermarket rod without that dimple, you cannot completely lock the lever into proper position since the little knob has nowhere to fit... I'll post a couple pics later

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9 minutes ago, Almo said:

Does it look like you could put a Wilson flat wire recoil spring in the factory guide rod?

No. The factory gr is larger than .270.

I was playing around with a 1911 guide rod and rounded the head and drilled a 1/8"  hole in the end. Used a 1911 recoil spring for testing. Did not fire it, but just on the bench and seemed to work fine. Ordered a glock guide rod and ismi flat wire spring. All you need to do is drill the 1/8" hole at end. 

Edited by echotango
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16 hours ago, echotango said:

No. The factory gr is larger than .270.

I was playing around with a 1911 guide rod and rounded the head and drilled a 1/8"  hole in the end. Used a 1911 recoil spring for testing. Did not fire it, but just on the bench and seemed to work fine. Ordered a glock guide rod and ismi flat wire spring. All you need to do is drill the 1/8" hole at end. 

Can you post a link to which guide rod and spring you ordered? I'm not familiar with glock parts. 

 

Edited by Prov1x
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On 2/15/2019 at 5:35 PM, PokerNGuns said:

In case anyone curious. My Red Hill holster for the SF shipped today. Order was placed 1/15.  

 

My Red Hill holster shipped today, order placed 1/20.

 

The more interesting thing is I ordered the holster after I told my dealer to place an order for the gun. I will have my holster Wednesday but no idea when I will get the gun. My dealer claimed it is unobtainium. 

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Decided to set mine up for CO, and threw a Vortex Viper on it. The more I shoot it, the more I like it. Still want to try an Apex in it, when they have one available. Also, decided to try my Canik mags with the Taylor Freelance extensions. No function issues during the 200rds I shot. Doesn't lock back the slide, but that's fine with me. Trying to decide if I should make a sleeve for the mags, since they stick out a bit.

 

Ordered a holster from Dara on the 7th, and it should be here tomorrow.

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On 2/21/2019 at 11:04 PM, Kletus said:

Is there a difference in the trigger parts for the 5" PPQ and the Q5 SF?    Ran up on the SF a few weeks ago and bought it on sight, but I've had some health issues that have stopped me from shooting it more than once.  I believe I will like the SF better once I figure out a smaller grip option.  Right now the grip panel is a little too big for me.  My main issue is that I'm completely disappointed in the trigger on the SF vs the trigger on my early 5" PPQ.   My PPQ has one of the original Springco trigger return springs (before there was a 2 spring kit) that reduces pull to right at 3 lbs.  On the PPQ... there is initial takeup.. but once you hit the wall it breaks like glass and there is very little movement to reset.  It's darn near perfect.    The SF on the other hand.... when i hit the wall with it... there is noticeable creep before the shot breaks and definitely more movement for reset.  It's not terrible.. but nowhere near as good as the trigger on my PPQ's.   I tried the lighter trigger return spring on the SF and the trigger moves back before the trigger safety deactivates.  I either need a lighter spring for the trigger safety or I'll have to play with modifying the trigger safety if I want to use the lighter spring.   Are the PPQ and the Q5 SF trigger parts interchangeable?  If I could have my PPQ trigger in my SF I'd be extremely happy with my purchase.

 

 

I just couldn't get over how crisp the trigger on my original two PPQ's are and how mushy my SF trigger is.   I finally decided to yank the firing mechanism (left the trigger and trigger bar) out of my 4" PPQ and stuck it into my SF.    Night and day difference!  Now I'm back to the light trigger with no creep that I love from my other PPQ's.  I can't seem to find my trigger pull gauge, but it feels about like my P320 with Gray Guns trigger, but once you hit the wall on the SF the break is extremely crisp with no creep at all.  For some reason I did have some interference between the slide and the right side of the plastic housing that holds the firing mechanism.   Just a few swipes with a small file and it's gone.  Turns out the lighter trigger return spring was a spring from Lodemans (sp) that was in an original PPQ 3.5 lb trigger thread.  It wasn't a Springco spring as I had said before.  Just a replacement trigger return spring and the FB block spring is left standard and you end up with a better trigger than on the P320 X5 with a Gray Guns kit.   That's pretty impressive.

 

Once I swapped out the trigger parts, I didn't have quite as much issue with the trigger safety catching early as I did with the original parts.   While I had the gun apart, I did just a little file work to the back of the tab on the trigger safety and now it seems to be completely reliable with the lighter spring.   The trigger safety is still fully functional.

 

I'm carrying the X5 and the SF to the range today to get the red dots sighted in and to shoot them side by side.  I typically shoot a normal PPQ with small grips installed.  Once I get home from the range today I plan to do a grip reduction to remove some of the width and rear palm swell on the SF and then give the grip insert an epoxy/silicon carbide treatment. 

 

I was honestly leaning more towards the x5 due to the trigger... but now that I have that sorted out I'm pretty excited to see if I can get the grip on the SF to fit me right.

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12 minutes ago, Kletus said:

 

 

 I plan to do a grip reduction to remove some of the width and rear palm swell on the SF and then give the grip insert an epoxy/silicon carbide treatment. 

 

The grip is way to big for my wife's hand so I filled the hollow backstrap with Acraglas so I can shape it to her hand. The hump on the backstrap is huge. Then SC to finish it off. 

Edited by echotango
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On 2/25/2019 at 3:07 PM, echotango said:

These didn't work.  The 1911 gr I played with  works and so does the factory one uncaptured and captured but for some reason it locks up and the slide doesn't move.  I think the head diameter is too small. 

 

Getting one made.  

Edited by echotango
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34 minutes ago, Prov1x said:

Just a regular 1911 5" guide rod with a hole drilled in it? What weight/brand spring are you trying out? 

No, I had it made. Same head size as the stock gr, but has it made a little longer and at .250" to fit ismi flat wire springs. 

 

The 1911 gr I played with worked in dry fire but wanted one to use flat wire springs as I did not want to cut the spring as I had to for it not to bind. 

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