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Walther new steel frame competition Q5


mikeAZ

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On ‎2‎/‎15‎/‎2019 at 10:24 AM, UPSMAN said:

I have the Q5poly ,XDM osp and had a glock 34 mos , it shoots way flatter and easier than any poly frame gun, you will be impressed. Been shooting the Q5poly for a year now(10 to 15 thousand rds ) It only took me about 400 rds thru the Q5SF before I was shooting closer double taps and consistent .15 to .17 splits and 30 yd alph's. Even someone that doesn't have good grip pressure can get better control on the Q5SF. My wife out shoots alot of the men that shoot poly guns with the Q5SF. couldn't do that before when she shot the XDMosp.

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I see your running the DPP and TT base pads.What is the total weight ? have heard that it's too heavy for CO Division with the DPP.Oh.....I currently run a G34.Over the last two weeks I have shot a poly Q5 , CZ and Q5 SF side by side.........I'm on the email list for  Q5 SF :) 

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On 2/19/2019 at 1:01 PM, threat said:

If you like your Poly gun and shoot it well they is no objective reason to spend over double the price to the steel gun. You can add weight in the form of guide rods to make the poly gun hop a little less. The steel gun doesn't shoot any better per se, it's just different. It comes down to whether or not you place more priority to a neutral shooting gun that hops a bit more (poly) or a heavy wobbly gun that hops up a bit less (steel)

The Steel frame gun and Poly gun shoot more similar than different to each other. That being said, the steel frame and removable grip fit my hand so much better than the Poly gun that I will have to buy the steel frame gun. The steel frame gun also has more clearance around the top of the trigger guard which is crucial to me.

 

Thanks for the input on that one.

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12 hours ago, threat said:

When I called walther their tech support guy said 48-50N....feels heavier than that though.

 

 

We’ve been over this. I went through it with rheir engineers but they still persist with the incorrect info. Walther lists a spring rate in Newtons which converts to 11 lbs.

 

The factory spring is actually 17 lbs, like everything else. I made a fixture and tested it.

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22 hours ago, assaultthesalt said:

23 reloadable ??

 

TTI basepads, Grams engineering follower and spring for the p320. Shave the tab off that locks the gun open because it’ll catch in the walther and doesn’t cause the Walther to lock open when empty anyway.

 

Runs perfect.

 

22 reloadable. 23+1 to start with a really tight insertion on a closed slide.

 

I run two of these 23 rounders, and have two others with just the TTI pad which hold 20. Much of the time you won’t need more than 20 - eiher before or after the reload 20 is plenty extra. So I use both of them about 50/50.

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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21 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:

 

TTI basepads, Grams engineering follower and spring for the p320. Shave the tab off that locks the gun open because it’ll catch in the walther and doesn’t cause the Walther to lock open when empty anyway.

 

Runs perfect.

 

22 reloadable. 23+1 to start with a really tight insertion on a closed slide.

 

I run two of these 23 rounders, and have two others with just the TTI pad which hold 20. Much of the time you won’t need more than 20 - eiher before or after the reload 20 is plenty extra. So I use both of them about 50/50.

 

Roger That. To the other post above about recoil spring weights. The SF I shot had a 13lb recoil spring and felt great to me.

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1 hour ago, PokerNGuns said:

13# from factory or custom set up?

 

There is a factory 13# option?

 

I don’t beleive there is. A minor modification to the poly gun’s aftermarket recoil assemblies lets them rock in the steel frame. That’s what most are doing... I think.

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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4 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

 

There is a factory 13# option?

 

I don’t beleive there is. A minor modification to the poly gun’s aftermarket recoil assemblies lets them rock in the steel frame. That’s what most are doing... I think.

 

Do you happen to know which aftermarket guide rod? I believe I saw something in an earlier post about drilling a dimple in it?

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15 minutes ago, Bryamill said:

Do you happen to know which aftermarket guide rod? I believe I saw something in an earlier post about drilling a dimple in it?

I would be careful replacing the guide rod. The factory one in the SF is very heavy compare to the aftermarket one that I have in the polymer q5. If you find one with the correct weight, then yes, you just have to drill a little dimple in the back.

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5 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

 

There is a factory 13# option?

 

I don’t beleive there is. A minor modification to the poly gun’s aftermarket recoil assemblies lets them rock in the steel frame. That’s what most are doing... I think.

 

Who makes a non-captured gr for the poly? All I find is captured. 

Planning on ordering a m&p gr and Glock flat wire. 

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1 hour ago, echotango said:

Who makes a non-captured gr for the poly? All I find is captured. 

Planning on ordering a m&p gr and Glock flat wire. 

 

I’ve heard various reports that glock steel ones fit.

 

I had a machinist buddy turn me one identical to the factory plastic, in steel, with a 1/4” shaft for flat wire springs. Glock ISMI springs run great.

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Is there a difference in the trigger parts for the 5" PPQ and the Q5 SF?    Ran up on the SF a few weeks ago and bought it on sight, but I've had some health issues that have stopped me from shooting it more than once.  I believe I will like the SF better once I figure out a smaller grip option.  Right now the grip panel is a little too big for me.  My main issue is that I'm completely disappointed in the trigger on the SF vs the trigger on my early 5" PPQ.   My PPQ has one of the original Springco trigger return springs (before there was a 2 spring kit) that reduces pull to right at 3 lbs.  On the PPQ... there is initial takeup.. but once you hit the wall it breaks like glass and there is very little movement to reset.  It's darn near perfect.    The SF on the other hand.... when i hit the wall with it... there is noticeable creep before the shot breaks and definitely more movement for reset.  It's not terrible.. but nowhere near as good as the trigger on my PPQ's.   I tried the lighter trigger return spring on the SF and the trigger moves back before the trigger safety deactivates.  I either need a lighter spring for the trigger safety or I'll have to play with modifying the trigger safety if I want to use the lighter spring.   Are the PPQ and the Q5 SF trigger parts interchangeable?  If I could have my PPQ trigger in my SF I'd be extremely happy with my purchase.

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2 hours ago, Kletus said:

Is there a difference in the trigger parts for the 5" PPQ and the Q5 SF?    Ran up on the SF a few weeks ago and bought it on sight, but I've had some health issues that have stopped me from shooting it more than once.  I believe I will like the SF better once I figure out a smaller grip option.  Right now the grip panel is a little too big for me.  My main issue is that I'm completely disappointed in the trigger on the SF vs the trigger on my early 5" PPQ.   My PPQ has one of the original Springco trigger return springs (before there was a 2 spring kit) that reduces pull to right at 3 lbs.  On the PPQ... there is initial takeup.. but once you hit the wall it breaks like glass and there is very little movement to reset.  It's darn near perfect.    The SF on the other hand.... when i hit the wall with it... there is noticeable creep before the shot breaks and definitely more movement for reset.  It's not terrible.. but nowhere near as good as the trigger on my PPQ's.   I tried the lighter trigger return spring on the SF and the trigger moves back before the trigger safety deactivates.  I either need a lighter spring for the trigger safety or I'll have to play with modifying the trigger safety if I want to use the lighter spring.   Are the PPQ and the Q5 SF trigger parts interchangeable?  If I could have my PPQ trigger in my SF I'd be extremely happy with my purchase.

I believe they're mostly the same parts. The only difference I noticed on the 1st take down is what I would called the "housing" where the sear is located. That's a bit different, otherwise everything seem the same. I put the same spring than the one I have in My q5 poly and did some polishing. Now both guns are very similar. I think the sf just need some rds through it to cactch up on the smoothness...

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4 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

Why are you worried about losing a pinch of weight in the guide rod? It won’t affect the gun’s reliablity and it’s already a heavy frame.

 

Losing half an ounce would be a good thing for the CO shooters.

There's about 20 gram difference (lighter) between the rod I have in the poly and the factory in the SF. I think that's enough to change the balance of the gun a little bit. If it was only a couple grams ok, but 20 is quite a bit... just my thoughts...

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17 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

 

There is a factory 13# option?

 

I don’t beleive there is. A minor modification to the poly gun’s aftermarket recoil assemblies lets them rock in the steel frame. That’s what most are doing... I think.

 

 

 

I'd like to know what the minor mod is to the poly guide rod is.   If you put it in the SF the break down lever will not close completely.   What is the mod?

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15 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:

Drill a dimple in the center of the head of the rod.

 

How is that going to relieve the problem?  I read that before.  The reason why I say that is because Walter sent me a plastic guide rod with a 13lb spring (they say it's 13) but the spring's diameter is larger than the stock spring.  I doubt it's 13 also..  

 

You would think a flat 13lb glock would fit.

Edited by lcs
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